Re: 97 Suburban major engine problem

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Thanks for your inputs Steve and Dave. As you say there could be more water than I thought in the air cleaner filter paper (I shook out as much as possible and thought that it was just damp). I can't think of any solution
as to what could cause damage to only one side of the engine in all four cylinders. It seemed to happen instantly when I started up the engine with the wet filter. That is why I kept thinking it is ecm related (the idea that maybe the shorted out maf sensor fried the ecm). There was no sign of water in the oil .. or oil in the water. I am suspicious of damaged valves. At the present time I have to engine removed and necessary parts removed while I am waiting for the delivery of the new long block. I should have everything back together in a few days. I will repost the end results for anyone interested.
Thanks again MJ

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wrote:

If you are curious about the source of the low compression. Since you've done a compression test, a wet compression test would tell you if the problem is with the rings or not and may indicate a problem with the valves or head gasket.
Remove the spark plugs. Pour some engine oil (several tablespoons) into one of the low reading holes and crank the engine for a few seconds. Insert the compression tester in that hole and read it after cranking again. If the readings increase substantially, the problem is caused by leaking rings (or cylinder bore). Repeat the process for the other cylinders.
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did you bend any push rods? you may as well tear it down just to see what went bad because you are able to get some pressure my guess is a bent push rod or cracked head. Please take it apart to satisfy my curiosity.
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Sorry I can't take it apart to find out exactly where the compression leaks are...........After figuring out how much time and money it would take me to rebuild the engine myself (had 150,000 miles) I decided to purchase a new engine from Mr. Goodwrench. It cost me $2335 total with shipping, core charge, etc.. I ordered it on a Mon. and recieved it Wed. It's a brand new long block that included the valve covers, oil pan, timing chain cover, and damper.
MJ

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Not yet. I had it completely re-installed and started it up. It runs exactly like the previous engine. The only conclusion that I could come to was that it must be an ignition problem. It starts up right away and then runs rough ... after it runs a short period of time it gets worse and worse. I was thinking that it must be some kind of computer problem....or at least it must be some part that was transferred from the old engine to the new. I took it to a local garage on a flat bed to have them get it going. They won't get to it for four days (Monday). After getting my head out from under the hood and thinking it over for awhile, I wish that I had not taken it in for repair (at least not yet). I am now very suspicious of a defective camshaft positioning sensor (located in the distributor). As far as I understand after doing some homework, a defective cmp will allow the engine to start up but the ecm holds its memory to the exact setting that it last received from the cmp before it burned out (it went bad during startup). I think that the fuel injector system is being sent a signal telling it that it is in the start up mode (full choke). This would explain why it starts up ok but the longer it runs the worse it gets. At least it is a thought.
MJ

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