Re: A/C question

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steelwheel wrote:


Then it looks like I've got the second 1994 with factory R-12 AC. 1994 GMC S-15 Jimmy SLE 4.3 W 4dr. Vehicle built Oct 1, 1994 BTW my 1994 Olds Ciera is R-134.
--reed
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Just out of curiosity, Is this truck a 94 model built in 93? It will show the date built on the door sticker. Anything made in August or later is the next years model if I remember right. It could say 9/93 and be a 94 model, right?.
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No door sticker. I don't recall it even being there when I got the truck, but I've also had the door repaired, and I don't think the shop saved the sticker if it was there...

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You can R&R the switch yourself. There is a schrader valve in the fitting on the accumulator. Go buy the switch , unscrew and screw the new one on. hand tight! and only HAND TIGHT. The o-ring seals it, not the torque of tightening it.
: 94 Jimmy 4x4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 : shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has : the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last : week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the : compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn't want to : go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was : happy. : : 2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the : pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! : Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that : pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice : and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this : mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with : the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? : : BTW, I'm not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble : my A/C system and do a proper conversion...
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This respondant is an idiot. 1993 most GM cars and trucks were R12 Nissan was R134a in 1993 GM was in 1994
: : >94 Jimmy 4x4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, : : Impossible. All vehicles sold in the US since 1993 use R134a. Either : your truck is older, or you are mistaken as to the refrigerant. : : >neither of the 2 : >shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has : >the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. : : A shop that does not possess recovery equippment is not qualified to : do A/C repairs. Also, it cannot legally attempt refrigeration system : repairs. It can do electrical A/C work. : : >The A/C worked last : >week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the : >compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn't want to : >go farther. : : This means that they are smart enough to stay away from work that they : are not qualified to do. : : > The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was : >happy. : > : >2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the : >pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! : >Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that : >pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice : >and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this : >mean the pressure switch is bad : : That is one possibility. There are others. : : >and I can take this to the shop with : >the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? : : You can do whatever you wish. I'd suggest that you find a shop that : knows how to do A/C work. For what it's worth, the low-pressure : switch should be mounted on a Schrader valve, and would not require : discharging the system for replacement. A competent A/C shop would : know this. : : > : >BTW, I'm not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble : >my A/C system and do a proper conversion... : : Cold air costs money. How comfortable can you afford to be?
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Don't be so hard on yourself.

Got evidence? I'd like to see your source for this information.

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That's what I've been asking for.

Thank you. You have provided the evidence that proves your claim. The rest of the wankers here should learn from your example.
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Please don't feed these piece of shit trolls, you'll only encourage those types to come back. He obviously has no clue of what he's talking about and he's just trying to stir things up in here. It seems he likes to go around to several groups and piss people off.
steelwheel wrote in

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Read up on rules of evidence and the burden of proof. You will look less-stupid after you learn something.
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Read up on the difference between a court room and usenet.
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Where in NY are you Steve? Ever have to replace the injector in that thing? I have basically the same truck, but in black...
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I'm Upstate near Cooperstown. So far the injector is ok, but I have a spare ready to go. I have done a few of them though. Not hard after you do the first one.
--
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Cool. Near Albany here...

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Nope the hoses and O-Rings are different as well. The new hoses are a Barrier hose. They are a rubber hose that has a Teflon inner hose liner. That is because the 134A has smaller atoms than the R-12 and can actually pass through the R-12 hoses unless they have been in use a long time, then the oil itself seals the hoses. Also different are the O-Rings, standard R-12 ones are not compatible with the oil used in R-134A, they break down and leak unless they have also been in use for a long time. For the guys who just put R-134A into a R-12 system you are just using the R-134a to displace the missing R-12. If you are real lucky it will work,however it is not the correct thing to do. Kind of like throwing masking tape over a rust hole, yeah it works but it isn't correct.
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So Mike, Did you fix your AC?

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Yeah. It blows nice and cold, for now. I need to fiddle a bit with the switch, put a little counter-clockwise pressure on the switch and the A/C kicks in. I checked at the local dealer, I may have them order the part, it's $28. Can't get the connector for the wiring harness though, so if that's the problem, I gotta find another way to fix it...

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wrote:

Doesnt it have just two spades sticking out of the switch?
If so you can get female spade terminals and just connect them to the wires.
If it is the switch, ANY good parts store will have it. It's a VERY common item on ALOT of chevy's
p.s. you dont have to evac to the AC to change it. just unscrew the old, and screw on the new.
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94 and up? It can't have R-12 in it! LOL just kidding.
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Took some pics, they can be seen over here:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?M2C432165
It's the last pic, sorry it's a little blurry. The rest are to show the evap cover, with the sticker facing the fender, not the hood, and the compressor saying it's R-12 under pressure.

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On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 16:47:22 GMT, Mike Levy

Mike, no matter what refrigerant it's got in it, the cycling switch has a shrader valve behind it. Unscrew it, screw the new one in it's place. Takes like 5 minutes, and a 5/8" wrench or a pair of pliers.
-- Old Crow '82 FLTC 92" Shovel 'Pearl' TOMKAT, SENS, BS#133, DOF#51, MAMBM ASE Certified Master Auto Tech Chevy Certified Master Tech
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