Rear Rotors for a 2003 GMC 2500HD 4x4

OK, I have a 2003 2500HD 4x4 regular cab pickup and I'm thinking about getting new rotors all the way around before winter. I have the 6.0L gas engine if that helps.
The thing that's got me stumped is that the parts places ask me if I have the 2" body lift. I don't think I do, but how the hell do I know? The thing looks jacked to me, but that's not exactly a scientific observation.
I see that the rear rotors have two different size center holes, 4.63" and 4.84". I haven't taken anything apart yet, so I haven't measured. I was hoping to have an easy answer so I don't have to dissasemble, measure, then reassemble to go to town and pick up what I need.
Any help....I appreciate!
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They usually go by gvwr, check for this on the door or pillar tag.

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have your vin in hand and call your local dealer. they will tell you what u have. even if you do not intend to buy the parts from your dealer and want to go to the corner parts store remind them that you bought a vehicle from them and if they want to sell you another in the future to cough up the info you need.

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David Johnson wrote:

Oh yeah...that's the way to get cooperation from a dealership!
Ian
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Tony wrote:

I'm not sure what "the 2" body life" has to do with it. I'd suggest that you find your option sheet (glovebox usually) and see what your brake option code is. Usually something like JB3..etc.
Ian
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Hi Guys,
I managed to find a reference from an online forum that said trucks that have the Allison tranny have a 2 inch body lift to accomidate the size difference. Now, why the hell that would have anything to do with the brakes is beyond me, but at over $125 a rotor, I don't want to be buying the wrong ones and finding out after it's torn apart in the driveway.
BTW, Ian, I think the rear calipers are hanging up on the sliders. Could I remove one slider at a time, lube it up with the special brake silicone lube stuff and insert it back in? I'd prefer to just do that than remove the tire, both sliders and all that.
Is that a valid short cut or am I going to screw myself somehow?
Thanks
Tony
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Tony wrote:

I think that you will find you have to remove caliper and bracket as a unit. It's actually as important to remove the rear brake pads and the insert/shims that they ride on and clean up the surface under the shims and clean the shims themselves. If you get GM pads, you get new shims with the pads. When corrosion builds up under the shims, it raises the shims and stops the pads from moving freely. Sometimes, this is what contributes to premature wear (99 percent of the time it's the right inner pad that wears out) of the rear brake pads. Obviously, you still want to lube the sliders themselves.
Ian
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Perfect, that's the kind of info that will save me grief over the long run. I had a feeling cheating it out wouldn't work.
Thanks Ian!
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