Replaced power window regulator

The power window finally came to a halt in my 2500HD this morning. It's been sounding like gravel in there for a couple of months now! Needed some help
to go all the way up one last time!
Found the regulator w/ motor locally for $105, not a dealer! It was worth the extra $20 to have it finished tonight vs. waiting on a part from an online shop. Incredible amount of Jack for what it is.....
I was amazed at how easily the door panels come off this truck! The entire job was finished in under 45 mins. Now that I know what to expect, I'd guesstimate it can be done in under 30 minutes next round.
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What year is your 2500HD and how many miles. That way we can know what to expect out of ours.
Thanks, Karl

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You can buy just the motor for less than $50 from NAPA, might take a whole 15 minutes more to change.
Whitelightning

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wrote:

On my 1999 Z71 I started having problems with the passenger power window going up and down and occassionally it would get stuck at the bottom. The panel IS surprisingly easy to take off, and a quick hit to the motor sends it up again. After getting tired of going through that process a few times I finally had a local shop swap out the motor. I bought it as a reman from NAPA and it worked fine for a little while but then started acting up again. I took the truck back to the shop and they told me that the track and cables needed to be replaced as well because they had been worn down too much. I got those parts from a salvage yard for cheap and that fixed it for a little while. Again it started acting quirky and so I had a good friend of mine who's a great mechanic look at it and found out the new motor was bad. Turns out the set up messed it up too. Luckily it was under warranty and NAPA had me a new one shipped the very next morning. After my friend looked at it he found a couple things slightly out of line, just enough to be inconspicuous, that explained the whole mess. Sorry for the ramble, but here's the moral of the story: 1. Make sure that when everything is put back, it is put back EXACTLY how it should be. Every cable and every notch in exactly the right spot. 2. Test it out several times with different variations of bolt tightness. Too tight makes the motor work harder, too loose...well that's just a no-brainer. 3. NAPA is a great place...at least the one in my town is. 4. Don't bottom out your power windows, lift up off the button before it gets all the way to the bottom so as not to get it stuck.
Best regards...thank you fellow Chevy owners!
G
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It sounded like the cables had shredded on this one so I didn't even bother just replacing the motor. The motor never sounded like it was laboring or slow, just a bunch of grinding gravel type sounds from the whole door.... Take it apart once and git 'er done!
NAPA is where I purchased the entire assembly. Didn't pull the old one completely apart, but there was plenty of shavings on the top side of the motor housing that looked like shredded plastic/dirt/general crud so my guess is the cable on the spool probably had bad spots. Didn't take it apart to confirm since I just wanted to get it done and on to other projects. Works like a champ again so that is all that really matters.
Next up, door lock actuators on the Suburban!!! Sounds like the '99 panels are just as easy to take off. Good thing since that is the Suburban's vintage! :-) Found OEM on the web at about 1/2 the price of the stealer....

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It's an '02 w/ only 48K miles.

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