I know zero about tires, but need to buy a set soon.
One thing I definitely want is capacity above and beyond the mandated minimum
for the vehicle in question - having blown a sidewall a few years ago...
I don't want off-road tires because the only off-road driving I do is in sand
and I'd rather not have the noise that my current Toyos make.
Consumer Reports likes Goodyear's 'Assurance TripleTred' and Michelin's "X
Radial"... so I'll probably buy one of those lacking other information. Wet and
dry braking are at the top of my list. Tread life is at the bottom. Noise is
somewhere in the middle.
So - what am I looking for capacity-wise? How so I express/identify/confirm
I have had real good luck with Michelins on my 89 burb that I bought
new. Get some LT (load range "C" if it is a 1500) and run they near
max pressure and you will not have any problems with sidewalls and if
you do that and get a smooth tread you will also pick up a mile or two
per gallon on highway with it from reduced rolling resistance.
There are different load-ratings for different size Michelin tires of
the same "model".
The LT 245-series tires were all E-rated and had higher load capacity
and maximum inflation pressure than the C-rated 265-series tires did. That
was the case with the XCH4 tires I ran on my '88 and it was the same for the
LTX tires I have on my '00 Silverado now.
With the 245's I could pump them up to 80 psi and really "stiffen up"
the sidewalls when pulling heavy trailers... but the 265's are only rated to
50 psi. The load rating difference was similar... 3042 lbs versus 2470 lbs
E-rated 265-series LTX MS tires were supposedly "not available" when I
bought my last set of tires... although they are shown on the Michelin site
There's an interesting footnote on that page regarding the use of "P"
(passenger car) size tires instead of "LT" (light truck) size tires on
trucks: "Passenger sizes used in Light Truck/SUV applications have reduced
load capacity. This will differ from the maximum load branded on the tire
I'm pretty happy with the LTX MS but I was disappointed with the LTX AT
that I had before... mainly due to the shorter tread life.
On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:23:17 -0500, "David Courtney"
WHythe fixation on E range tires on what may be a 1500 burb where
about 50 PSI is the the max safe pressure on wheel rims? Anyone
running 80 PSI on l those rims is asking from trouble big time. I
strongly suspect that the poster has a 1500 burb too to begin with. If
so LT or load "C" tires will do just fine at or near max pressure.
Most tire that suffer sidewall problem are usually because they do not
have enough pressure for the load and the sidewall is flexing more and
running hotter than it should and weakening it with time until it
If you are using passanger type tirs, 35 PSI does not cut it well on
the heavy vehicle. LT/ Load Range C tires are rated 50 PSI and will
help your concerns a lot and they roll good too. (your stock rims will
I think the LTXs are what I'm going to get. Only loose end in my mind is "C"
vs "E" - based solely on safety considerations. If "E" works at 38-40 PSI as
the designers intended I might go for "E" just for the added resistance to
I would not as it will waste fuel at this pressure and stiffer
sidewall will consume more energy when flexing more at lower pressure
and stiffen ride as well. "C" tires are a lot tuffer than standard
passanger type tires and even "E" do not have 10 plys in side wall
either unless they are bias ply tires. Lots of passange tires just
have one ply is side wall and "C" radials have 2 or 3 (depending on
brand)BF Goodrich A/T's have a very strong sidewall and it is one of
its trademarks too so to speak. It is your money but you will likely
have shortenr sidewall life from flex issues with a "E" run at 40 PSI
vs a "C" run as same pressure and a "E" will not carry anymore weight
than a "C" will at same pressure and since your rims are only rated 50
PSI, whu waste money on 80 PSI tires that you do not need? More it not
always better hear.
So for a 3/4 ton Suburban that recommends 50 psi in the front and 80 in the
rear. Does that mean the owner should buy C rated tires for the front and E
rated tires for the rear or should the owner overinflate the front tires to
80 psi and destroy cornering and braking ability in order to reduce your
imaginary extra flex? Why limit choices to only E rated tires? I had a
hard time finding C rated tires and only got them because they had a
desirable tred pattern (slightly more aggressive than the stock tires) and
were on sale. Several of the desirable tires were only available in E
rating or P-metric. Due to instant need I had to get what was immediatly
availabe. E series tires would have been perfectly acceptable. BTW, if he
has the same rims I do they are rated to 55 PSI. The steel rims should be
able to handle much more.
I didn't have any problems with the wheels on my 1/2-ton Sportside after
480,000+ miles of running mostly load range E tires. You don't have to run
them at 80 psi (I usually didn't) because the truck isn't that heavy.
In my experience, the extra ply and higher "ply-rating" of the E range
tires also means they also have stiffer sidewalls, so they resist the
swaying motion of a trailer better and are more pleasant to tow with... even
at lower inflation pressures.
I did have the option of pumping them up to 80 psi (I have done at least
100 times) which really stiffens them up and helps a lot if you're pulling a
big enclosed trailer that acts like a "sail" behind the truck.
I will take load range E tires over load range C tires whenever I can
get them, but it's not a fixation... just my preference after driving more
than a million miles in light trucks.
Half-ton I guess - It's a 1500 series.
No interest at all in running more than 50 PSI - or even more than 40. The only
issue I see between C and E, then, is whether E can be run at the lower
pressures and perform as designed.
Knowing nothing, my kneejerk is to go with the "C" rating... OTOH, in my book
stronger sidewalls are better - if only because I'd imagine they're less
susceptible to damage from curbing.
There's nothing "silly" about buying a tire for reasons other than it's
maximum load rating or maximum inflation pressure.
If you run a C-rated tire and an E-rated tire of the same size at the
same pressure... the E-rated tire will have less sidewall flex. Stiffer
sidewalls with less flex have lower rolling resistance and give slightly
better mileage than softer sidewalls.
"For example, DuPont has suggested the use of aramid fibers to replace
steel cords and monofilament replacement of current polyester multifilament
to modify stiffness. Aramid yams have been available for over a decade, and
their use can cut rolling resistance by 5 percent. Polyamide monofilament
have been recently introduced that improve the tire sidewall stiffness and
reduce rolling resistance by about 5 percent."
My experience with E-rated Michelin light truck tires (XCH4 and LTX MS)
is that the tread is worn out between 83K and 88K miles... but I have never
had any sort of sidewall failure.
Also, lower inflation pressures increase the maximum stresses on the
rim... not the other way around.
"The results revealed that the inflation pressure does affect stress in
the wheel," said Stearns. "Higher stresses were found at lower pressures.
That may seem counter-intuitive unless you consider that the pressure helps
to maintain the wheel's round shape. At lower pressures, the weight of the
car deflects the wheel into an oval shape which results in higher stresses."
Anybody besides me think that tires are worn out well before the tread thickness
is below the statutory minimum?
Seems to me like other things in the tire wear besides the treads.
I base that on how much better the vehicle handles after the tires are replaced
at, say, 30 or 35k miles when the treads are still passing state inspection with
Barking up the wrong tree here because sidewall impact resistance is
determine by thing other than load range on a radial. On a old bias
ply tire, a 10 play tire is 10 ply in tread and sidewall. I use 10 ply
rated bias ply studded snow tires on my plow trucks in winter and not
only do they provide great traction, they also are about
indestructable to curbing. Not that you want these tires but is shows
the difference on tire design vs ply rating.
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