S10 Blazer rattles

I have a 92 S10 that rattles from underneath when I drive around town. It sounds like something loose underneath that is clunking around. Sometimes
it sounds like it's up front, then back.
I noticed if I lightly apply the brakes and continue to drive, it is 95% gone. Once I let up on the brakes it's back.
It has all new ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm, front end alignment and torsion bar mounts.
Any ideas??
Lannie
PS Has new shocks on the front, old ones used to do that if not tightened down enough. Rears have not been replaced yet.
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U-joints?
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Warped rotors and worn pads?

It
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I just checked the pads and they are about 60% left. The rotors are a little wavy. On the surface that is. When you apply the brakes they are smooth, no shaking.
Would U-Joints rattle around a bunch like this sound does? The more little bumps you hit themore it makes.
Lannie

Sometimes
and
tightened
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check the shield above the cat.....
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My thoughts exactly...................or some of the underbody heat sheilding that runs along the undercarriage just above the exhaust.
Doc

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Why does riding the brakes stop the sound? I'm not getting the coloration??

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coloration??
Awww hell I dunno! <g> I'd slide under and just tug at the heat sheilding and shake the cat and see if you can find anyting loose.
Auto or standard?
Doc
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It's auto. I was wondering if the calipers can rattle or the brake pads or soemthignlike that. I'll crawl under there this weekend again and see what I can find. Thanks Doc! Lannie

sheilding
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the calipers can indeed rattle.
Mine are driving me nuts. will shortly fix them, though... in the bin they go, along withthe entire front suspension!!!

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Can you fix them or do you need to replace them? I've been wanting to get a set of discs. Can they be adjusted or greased to stop the rattle?
Lannie

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Finally going SFA eh?
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heck yeah-- got the Wagoneer Dana 44's sitting on the back porch. My last task to do is to get some 86 CJ rear shackle hangers, and weld up the front crossmember for my spring hanger, and after that I've got to remove the front chunk <and all the plumbing for the remote-mount oil filter, so I can put it where it belongs- on the block!>, control arms, and torsion bars, and bolt up the front diff. Weld on some new spring perches on the rear axle and slap the rear 44 in, and I'm golden. Waggy brake lines will bolt up to the hardline, Waggy front driveshaft will work just fine, and the steering will be taken care of with a piece of 1.5" DOM and a little tap action for the pitman to tierod.
Probably the only part I wil have to farm out is the rear driveshaft-- the little bit of research I've done leads me to believe that it'll need a 1310 tcase yoke and whatever yoke is on the D44... so I'll go ahead and go with a SYE kit on the Tcase while I'm in there and get the slip shaft moved to where it belongs- the driveshaft.

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Damn it DOC!! You're supposed to know all the answers here! If you don't, who the hell will. :) hehe

sheilding
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<ashamed, sobbing>
;-)
Doc
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