Should I replace my transmisison myself?

I have a '94 1/2 Suburban 4x4 and the transmission is shot. I would seriously like to replace it myself, but I need to understand what that involves. The most I have done myself in the past is to replace the clutch on a Volvo. This seems like it might be similar, as far as removing and replacing the transmission (except a lot heavier).

I would like to review a clear step-by-step procedure, and get familiar with what is involved, before I do anything. I have a Haynes manual, and that just doesn't clarify it enough for me.

I also need to consider this from a fix/sell perspective. The vehicle is in great shape in many ways. The body and interior are excellent. Engine has about 250,000 miles. I was having the ABS problems, but I might be able to track that down later. There are probably some other things I will need to do, too, but I need a hobby, so this looks like as good a one as any! And I would like to take this thing off road again, if I can get it to run reliably.

Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to start? I would like to run a thread on this topic if I decide to pursue it, and include a discussion of whether it's worth the trouble. I already replaced this suburban with a new one, so that's not where I'm headed. I just hate to throw this one away, as good as it has been for me.

Thanks!

It is not that hard to do other than extra heavy work You have to remove transfercase or at least slide it back a lot and if you slide it back you will need to unload torsion bars to slide cross memebr back too. (I would remove Tcase instead) Trouble spots are the coolant lines if they are rusted in fittings and the electronic control on side of tranny that shifter is hooked too. Usually this controller is badly corroded because it is aluminum and it is hard wired in too. The replacement for it has to be spliced in. (I had one changed on my 2000 K3500 over a year ago that was badily coroded as

4L80 using same basic style) This can be a bit pricey if it needs replacing (mine was replaced under extened warranty) Other than that do remember to remove splash shield on bottom of torque converter housing and remove the flex plate to converter bolts first before removing bell housing bolts. Also be very carefull if you remove and replace converter in housing because it needs to be properly seated to correctly engage pump ears. Failure to do this will result in a busted front pump and no functions. (many have had this happen) It is not hard to avoid, just make sure that you rotate converter as you install it into tranny and use a steady inward light pressure until it fully seats. I would recommand that you change converter to tranny seal while you have tranny out unless it is a newly rebuilt unit.

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