Stripped Balancer bolt?

This a a tuff one. Best bet is to try to use a tap threader to cut it for a larger bolt. Try on size larger. Go easy and back tap out a lot to clean out cut threads. (after every 1/2 turn or so of new cut, back it out 1 turn of more and then start over and keep it oiled too)

----------------- The SnoMan

Sometimes you get lucky and it is just the bolt, take it out and check. Usually the OEM bolt does not go all the way to the bottom of the threads. You might have luck retaping the threads and installing a ARP balancer bolt, they are quite a bit longer than OEM. Worse case is you will have to tap the crank out to a larger bolt. Usually the crank snout gets stripped when using the balancer bolt to install the balancer instead of a install tool.

theolder model ones were a press fit and i have soaked the threads with JB weld (a tube type metal epoxy) and just snugged it in the hole. The bolt only held the tension on the harmonic balancer and we drove for years with that. The newer ones i am not sure how much it is needed. old john

Hello, SnoMan! You wrote on Mon, 17 Apr 2006 12:27:17 GMT:

??>> The bolt on my 1998 Chevy 4x4 pickup has a stripped harmonic balancer ??>> bolt. It won't tighten. ??>>

??>> What are my options in fixing this?

With best regards, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. E-mail: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net

Hello!!!

While the dampner is press on by its very nature it absorbs vibrtions in engine and cancel them out so it has to have a snug fit but it can walk off crankshaft sometime if not properly retained by the bolt and that is why it is present.

----------------- The SnoMan

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Fix it, patch it, ignore it. those.....are your options.

~~PATCH REPAIR~~

"If"...the bolt tends to thread into the crank, that is, if all the threads are not gone, that is, if the bolt screws in but won't tighten, try this...............

#1 Get a new bolt.

#2 Get some RED Locktite.

#3 Get a 3 inch piece of "Mechanics Wire".

#4 Put red locktite on new bolt, run the mechanics wire down into the hole in the crank, screw the locktited bolt into the crankshaft.

WARNING,WARNING,WARNING

"If"...the bolt snugs up, STOP!! DO NOT attempt to torque down on the bolt. The red locktite W I L L keep the bolt secure, and the harmonic balancer on.

hopefully helpfull

~:~ MarshMonster ~sips his crownroyal.....mmm....takes a hit off his bong~

I would not helicoil it. Just tap it to the next size larger bolt if need be and you will have a stronger fastener with more contact aera afterwards.

----------------- The SnoMan

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~~RANDOM THOUGHTS~~

I use the crank bolt to turn flywheels to get the torque convertor bolts lined up so I can get at em. (sometimes.....not always, depends on the vehical)

with that said................

I worked at a shop one time, had been there for about a year. I was using the above technique to get at the convertor bolts on a FWD car. The first tug I gave on the crank bolt......snapped the head clean off. Sheared it, busted it, fubarred it.......totally a bad situation.

any whooooo..... I prance my happy arse up to the front office, head of bolt in hand, and inform the owner of the shop of the dire situation I'd created in my earnst to make him a richer man.

long story made short........

He stuck a little silicone glue on the head of the bolt, popped er back onto the end of the harmonic.....and wah-lah.....instant fix.

this was on a Tuesday.....I loaded up on Fryday, after collecting my pay.

~:~ MarshMonster ~actually it wasn't tuesday......but the spelling of the other day fails me right now.....and i didn't want to have to explain the phrase "day after tuesday" ~

marsh..sips his crownroyal....

Heli-coils restore a threaded hole to original specs. The strength of a heli-coil is almost the same as the original threads. That said. tapping to the next size is an option, but not necessarally the best. Wayne

In many cases, Heli-coil is superior to original threads.