This a a tuff one. Best bet is to try to use a tap threader to cut it
for a larger bolt. Try on size larger. Go easy and back tap out a lot
to clean out cut threads. (after every 1/2 turn or so of new cut, back
it out 1 turn of more and then start over and keep it oiled too)
theolder model ones were a press fit and i have soaked the threads with JB
weld (a tube type metal epoxy) and just snugged it in the hole.
The bolt only held the tension on the harmonic balancer and we drove for
years with that.
The newer ones i am not sure how much it is needed.
You wrote on Mon, 17 Apr 2006 12:27:17 GMT:
??>> The bolt on my 1998 Chevy 4x4 pickup has a stripped harmonic balancer
??>> bolt. It won't tighten.
??>> What are my options in fixing this?
With best regards, email@example.com. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
While the dampner is press on by its very nature it absorbs vibrtions
in engine and cancel them out so it has to have a snug fit but it can
walk off crankshaft sometime if not properly retained by the bolt and
that is why it is present.
Usually the OEM bolt does not go all the way to the bottom of the threads.
You might have luck retaping the threads and installing a ARP balancer bolt,
they are quite a bit longer than OEM. Worse case is you will have to tap the
crank out to a larger bolt. Usually the crank snout gets stripped when using
the balancer bolt to install the balancer instead of a install tool.
Fix it, patch it, ignore it.
those.....are your options.
"If"...the bolt tends to thread into the crank,
that is, if all the threads are not gone, that is,
if the bolt screws in but won't tighten,
Get a new bolt.
Get some RED Locktite.
Get a 3 inch piece of "Mechanics Wire".
Put red locktite on new bolt, run the mechanics
wire down into the hole in the crank, screw the
locktited bolt into the crankshaft.
"If"...the bolt snugs up, STOP!!
DO NOT attempt to torque down on the bolt.
The red locktite W I L L keep the bolt secure,
and the harmonic balancer on.
~sips his crownroyal.....mmm....takes a hit off his bong~
Your other option is to "heli-coil" it. These are inserts, you drill and tap
the existing hole with a special tap and install a insert that is the
original thread size. You can buy a kit for about $50 or less. Just make
sure you get the right size. Wayne
I use the crank bolt to turn flywheels to get the torque convertor
up so I can get at em.
(sometimes.....not always, depends on the vehical)
with that said................
I worked at a shop one time, had been there for about a year. I was
the above technique to get at the convertor bolts on a FWD car. The
tug I gave on the crank bolt......snapped the head clean off.
Sheared it, busted it, fubarred it.......totally a bad situation.
I prance my happy arse up to the front office, head of bolt in hand,
inform the owner of the shop of the dire situation I'd created in my
to make him a richer man.
long story made short........
He stuck a little silicone glue on the head of the bolt, popped er
onto the end of the harmonic.....and wah-lah.....instant fix.
this was on a Tuesday.....I loaded up on Fryday, after collecting my
~actually it wasn't tuesday......but the spelling of the other day
right now.....and i didn't want to have to explain the phrase "day
marsh..sips his crownroyal....
Heli-coils restore a threaded hole to original specs. The strength of a
heli-coil is almost the same as the original threads. That said. tapping to
the next size is an option, but not necessarally the best. Wayne
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