Tail lamps won't go out

Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! 95' GMC Sierra XLT. Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. Fronts are o.k. Right turn signal stopped working.
Left still works. Hazards stopped working. When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? Haven't done a thing, just started out of the blue. Thank for any suggestions, Mike
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There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to the heat of the bulb. Change 'em out and you should be fine. Only problem is there about $50.00
Personally if it was me, I think I'd try to find a way to remotely mount those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn't hurt 'em.
~KJ~

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I could have sworn that lights that didn't go out were the symptom of these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I'd try to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I've never seen them but I'd guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board would be more than enough.
~TLGM
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On 29 Jan 2004 09:39:17 -0800, pde_on snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Lonely G-Monkey) wrote:

the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring connector to the bulb sockets. moving it won't help anything. what GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb holders like everyone else on the frigging planet.
-Bret
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So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can't make happen. I mean, if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light.
~KJ~

due to

problem
mount
powered when

circuit. If

upstream.
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you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights in a 88-98 truck. it's just not a good design, unless you're going to use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue.
-Bret

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I have an 88 S10 that uses lamps just like any other truck.....
~KJ~

fail
Only
remotely
further
of
try
never
board
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go look at the 88-98 C/K tail lights and you'll see the infamous bulb mount board.
-Bret

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I've been meaning to get into the local yard just to scope out the 73-91 blazer/burbs for any toys, etc....
~KJ~

These
fine.
only
the
symptom
I'd
the
what
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I don't think many car manufacturers used twist in bulbs since 87!
Chrysler, Ford nor GM!
That plastic push in type is here to stay!

due to

problem
mount
powered when

circuit. If

upstream.
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On Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:04:28 -0500, "Refinish King"

I'm not talking about twist in bulbs, I'm talking about the bulb *HOLDERS* that twist into the light housing. somewhere along the line GM changed the bulb type in the 88-98 trucks to the push in type, unfortunately it didn't help with the corrosion problem.
-Bret
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to
problem
mount
when
If
upstream.
Heat isn't what kills them; it's corrosion. Seperating the bulbs from the boards won't solve anything.
Doc
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Ah, I was always under the impression that it was a heat thing. Thanks for the info!
~KJ~
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Check your trailer wiring.
Les
Mike wrote:

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brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me?
Snowman

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"Snowman" <somethingorotherdotcom> wrote in message

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What I don't understand is, because it's the running lights that are on, where are they getting power with the headlamp switch off? I know it's not the switch because the front parking lamps turn off with the switch and when you pull the fuse, but the rears stay on! It's like a power wire to the rear lights is shorted to another power wire that's always hot?
The only one I can think of is the orange wire in the trailer plug that's always hot to charge the auxiliary battery in the trailer to power the electric brakes in the event of a disconnect.
As someone mentioned, it must be in the trailer plug. I'll let you all know what I find out.
Thanks for all the replies, Mike
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FYI, These are always on EBAY. Need to get some myself soon.
Chris http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category3716&item $57131295

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