There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to
the heat of the bulb. Change 'em out and you should be fine. Only problem is
there about $50.00
Personally if it was me, I think I'd try to find a way to remotely mount
those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn't hurt 'em.
I could have sworn that lights that didn't go out were the symptom of
these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I'd try
to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I've never
seen them but I'd guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board
would be more than enough.
On 29 Jan 2004 09:39:17 -0800, pde_on email@example.com (Lonely
the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring
connector to the bulb sockets. moving it won't help anything. what
GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb
holders like everyone else on the frigging planet.
So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it
somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can't make happen. I mean,
if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that
is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps
LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light.
you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights
in a 88-98 truck. it's just not a good design, unless you're going to
use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue.
On Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:04:28 -0500, "Refinish King"
I'm not talking about twist in bulbs, I'm talking about the bulb
*HOLDERS* that twist into the light housing. somewhere along the line
GM changed the bulb type in the 88-98 trucks to the push in type,
unfortunately it didn't help with the corrosion problem.
What I don't understand is, because it's the running lights that are
on, where are they getting power with the headlamp switch off?
I know it's not the switch because the front parking lamps turn off
with the switch and when you pull the fuse, but the rears stay on!
It's like a power wire to the rear lights is shorted to another power
wire that's always hot?
The only one I can think of is the orange wire in the trailer plug
that's always hot to charge the auxiliary battery in the trailer to
power the electric brakes in the event of a disconnect.
As someone mentioned, it must be in the trailer plug.
I'll let you all know what I find out.
Thanks for all the replies,
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