Towing w/91 Blazer

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Hi, I snagged a 91 Blazer with only 125kmi for $1000. It has brand new tires, runs great! I got lucky for a change. Anyway, I have an old 12ft. Aristocrat camper, a heavy little piggy, and am wondering how it
will hold up to towing. It has the 4.3 v-6, 5speed. Anybody with a similar vintage have any info to share, Thanks, jb
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Is this an S-series Blazer? I am not sure if the fullsize came with 4.3 or not.
What's the axle ratio?

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Hey, Yes, it is the 2-door S-10 Jb

4.3 or

it
a similar vintage have any

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ok-- this changes things.
Axle ratio?!!?

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also- exactly how heavy is this little piggy? Does it have electric brakes?
Would probably suggest a WD hitch with anything that large and having the aerodynamics of a well-designed brick.

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Burntkat, I can't find any specs on the gear ratio, I tried the Chevy web site, no go, and of course the manual says nothing. As for "little piggy", it's a 68 Aristocrat and all wood, so off the top of my head I'd say it's running a good ton, not much more than that. and yes, it has electric brakes installed. jb
"burntkat" > also- exactly how heavy is this little piggy? Does it have electric brakes?

the
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Look in the glovebox at the sticker of 3-character codes. Look for any starting with G and refer to the list below for the factory-installed axle ratio.
G80= limited slip diff. GU2= 2.73 GU4= 3.08 GU6= 3.42 GT4, GX1= 3.73 GT5= 4.10
Now, if a PO swapped the gears, you'll have NO clue what ratio you have...

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Aside from popping open the rear diff and counting...
~KJ/TLGM
wrote in message

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Mike, In the glove box, there was 3 sets of "G" codes: they are; GMC, GU6, and G80. I assume that the code we are looking for is the G80. so, if that means it is a "limited slip diff", what the heck does that mean? jb
"Mike Levy> Look in the glovebox at the sticker of 3-character codes. Look for

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it means you've got the G80 automatic locking differential manufactured by Eaton for GM. it means your differential will lock solid when a 200 RPM (I *think*) difference occurs between the axle shafts and hopefully get you out of your low traction situation.
the GU6 means you've got a 3.42 rear.
-Bret

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Bret, Thanks for clearing that up. Now, I am trying to integrate that info into my limited understanding of trani's. Could you offer an opinion as to how well this particular rear end will hold up to pulling my 12' trailer? And also, would you care to comment on this rear end as compared to others in terms of power, traction, reliability, climbing abilities etc.? thanks, jb

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All of which means most of us are pretty damned envious now!
wrote:

and
that
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wrote:

Not all of us! I have the 8.5" rear axle in my truck, with 3.73's and the G80...
'course, I have a ZR2 that came standard with that..

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Isn't the G80 the "Gov-lock"?
<puke>
wrote:

codes.
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Please ignore last- think I confused it with something else...
wrote:

codes.
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Burnt: hate to continue to show my ignorance, again, but, JUST WHAT THE HECK does any of this mean? jb
"burntkat" wrote in message > All of which means most of us are pretty damned envious now!

GU6,
if
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ok- here's what I was responding to, that Bret said:
<snip>
G80 automatic locking differential manufactured by Eaton for GM. it means your differential will lock solid when a 200 RPM (I *think*) difference occurs between the axle shafts and hopefully get you out of your low traction situation.
the GU6 means you've got a 3.42 rear.
</snip>
Now- if it's an automatic LOCKING diff, and not a LSD <Limited Slip, get yer mind outta the 60s>, that's a good thing. Now I think, though-- if it requires a 200rpm speed differential between the tires, it's an LSD. They're good for onroad since they don't have any effect on the driving mannerisms of the car under power, but pretty much suck offroad, where a spinning wheel will more likely than not just dig you in faster. Guess which school of thought I subscribe to? <hint: I am the maniac about to put the torch to my 89 S-Blazer's undercarriage and put my own suspension under it. Dana 44's.. ruh ruh ruh>
3.42 is a decent towing gearset. Not quite as good as a 3.73 would be <what my Blazer's got>, but not as bad as a 3.07 or so.
But to let you know if this is suitable for your purposes, we need to know if you're going to use a WD hitch, if the trailer has electric brakes, and what it's weight is, loaded.
Sorry- no real way around it.
My Blazer towed a 1600 pound <empty weight> 6X12 enclosed box Uhaul trailer with hydraulic surge brakes <I think they're only emergency brakes in event of the trailer leaving the towing vehicle- didn't get a close look as I was moving to the new house> full of gear for 3 days without a single protestation or problem. Then again, you need to know I live in a place with lots of trees, flat ground, and no winter to speak of, and was only towing about 20 miles at a time, worst case.
It's a good vehicle- you can't go wrong with a Chevy truck. I've got 240,000 miles on mine, new engine <basically cuz I had to replac the rear main and am not one to put something old back in, so I replaced the entire damn engine 20K ago>, new transmission <shitty rebuild from an ex-acquaintence, after years of neglect formthe old owners> and it runs like a champ. I get 14MPG and could be getting much better if I'd get off my ass and clean out the garage and take care of the knocking exhaust pipe that is telling my knock sensor to screw up the timing on my motor. Even with the severely FUBARed timing adjustment the computer is making, I have lots of power.
Only real problem is the AC is broken. 8(

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wrote:

it's not a limited slip.. it does indeed lock, but it is no where near as good as a Lock-right or a Detroit locker.
They're

hydraulic surge brakes work by connecting a master cylinder to the coupler. when you brake the trailer pushes the MC into the coupler, activating the brakes. this is why when you hit the brakes, a 1/2 sec later the trailer jerks backwards. they've been outlawed in TN for quite some time... long downgrades will burn them up, and unless the lockout is functioning, backing them up an incline is damn near impossible.
full of gear for 3 days without a single

I get between 13.5 and 15 MPG on my '88 K2500 w/ a 350.
-Bret
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I want to thank all you guys with feedback to my questions about power, and towing capacity. . Now I know I have a lsd, 3.42 rear end. Somebody suggested I get a trani cooler. So I went to my local trani dealer to have one installed, he looked at the 5 speed and looked at me like I was nuts. so I blamed it on you guys HA! Anyway, the tow bar is attached solid to the frame it is a "draw tite", don't know if that meets the specs but it seems pretty solid. I'm giving it a test run this weekend, so I'll let you know how it handled "little piggy". Thanks, Jb

brakes, and
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Look in your glovebox for the build code sticker and I can tell you how to find the ratio.
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