Transmission interchangability...

not

I'll look for it locking up, I might have some more questions about this later on...

~KJ~

nope

yeah, the solenoid that controls it develops a small leak when it's supposed to be closed

the leak is enough to keep the TC control valve shifted

depends on usage

heavy useage, rear planet, especially if abused

medium usage, either 3/4 clutch pack or band slips in 4th and burns..........the reverse input drum, against which the band applies is spinning backwards in respect to engine rotation in 1st, this helps to self-apply (assists the servo in wrapping it tighter) in 2nd, but in 4th, the drum spins the same direction as the engine, which makes it more prone to slip without enough clamping force

grandma-type use, 3-4's wear out

I guess I'd fall under medium usage as I don't pound the dog-snot out of my truck, but I do use it as a truck every day.... how much strength is gained by putting the vette servo in it? is there anything else non major that I can do to help it out?

-Bret

I've heard 40-50% more band-clamping force

well, as always, an external cooler......

My 'Burban is my daily driver, my Family truckster.I currently have

3.73's in a 10blt front and a 12blt rear. Take off is good for a semi-stock 350 in a 6000lb SUV w/33's. Problem is that by the time I get up to highway speed, i.e. 75mph, the engine starts doing its impersonation of a rubberband. 3100rpm isn't high, but on a 2.5hr trip to Omaha, its a bit annoying. Not to mention the MUCH shorter life that the engine will see. I can put in a 10blt front and 12blt rear that have 3.08 gears. But I don't feel like installing rocket boosters just to drive away from a stop sign. It would give me the desired drivability going down the road, but at town and off-road drivability. I am planning on installing a HD DANA44 front and 14blt rear with 4.10's. Primarily for strength. Also I do some towing and some of it is a decent weight(10K plus). Not to mention the fact that a full floating rear-end will last far longer than a semi-floating rear. A 30% OD with 4.10's is a bit high, all things considered, but there will be 2 gears to select from for going down the road. If I am towing anything substantial, I will not be driving in 4th and not doing 75-80 anyway. Now for Loading up me and my four kids and taking a trip to Omaha or to my friends cabin SW of Denver, spinning my soon to be installed(semi-stock) 454 at a lopey 2400rpm at 75mph will be efficient(for a BB) and comfy. The engine and trans will not be spinning like a washing machine, wearing out their vital fluids prematurely form massive heat and overreving, and yet I will still have massive fun taking my kids off-roading and also getting around town in a way opposite of a wet sponge. Now, after all that... What are we talking about for stall speed. Rebuilding cost is NOT a factor. I have a friend that will build me all the TH350's I want for $300 and that is me supplying NOTHING and it includes internal mods to make it a beast. Twice that money and he will do the same with the 700. Rebuild cost is NOT a primary concern! Fitment is, and that has been answered by Marsh, right Gary? Drivability has been addressed, by Marsh. So, what kind of specifics are we talking about here? 800rpm stall? 1200? 1500??? Shift timing and lock-up were addressed in earlier posts! BIG issue or no??? I appreciate ALL the advise and opinions, but more specifics would be appreciated. Biscuit batter? Overstatement or dead on? Numbers are always good. Technical info is GREAT! Again, thanx to EVERYONE who has chimed in on this surprisingly popular post! Gary, Bret, and of course Marsh!!! Thank you!!!

Gary, so basically everything will work, Right? Stall speed being low is fine! No lock-up decelerating is fine! As long as the lock-up will work with an aftermarket, stand alone lock-up control and the converter will bolt up, its all good!!! Anything else that will allow the 700 to not FIT into and BOLT up and OPERATE in my gas 'Burban? ============== ============== Shades, Gary's telling you that if you use that diesel tranny in your truck with the diesel convertor..

YOU CAN INSTALL IT.....it will work.... but......

you're gonna feel like your trying to plow through a field of Biscuit Batter.....

absolutely complete loss of lower end take off.......and accelaration.

you're gonna think your towing a house down the road...on it's foundation.

Maybe a little overdramatic...but damn close to what your gonna feel after switching out from the TH350 setup.

You said.....if it's ANYTHING more than just an R&R swap out....you wouldn't even consider it.

Well.....consider this.....your fixing to swap out a sturdy TH350 that costs about $900 to REPLACE if the thing ever takes a total sheet on you, and that's with the shop doing ALL the work. (please note ..i said replace)

That 700R4 that's been used in that diesel, maybe driven hard and put up wet, is going to cost you a minimum....of $900 on the bench with you taking it out.....and bud...that's minimum. The price very apt to be around $1200-$1400 on the bench for a class act overhaul.

I'm telling you Shades.....unless there's a reason that you just don't want that TH350, other than gas mileage,.....don't do this thing bud....you're gonna be posting in here within a year or so begging Gary to take one up the ole wazoo for you.......

Think it over ...real good....

gas ain't cheap, but is it worth the extra $6 a week savings to go through all that headache?

That 350 is gonna last forever unless you dawg it out....and even if you do...it's gonna last a hell of a lot longer than that 700r4, that you're taking your friends word for...hasn't been a problem...in how many miles??

respectfully,

marshmonster ~trying to keep a bud from jumping off the roof~ ====== ======

Oct 28, 2003, 7:33am From: shades snipped-for-privacy@netins.net (Shades) Gary, so basically everything will work, Right? Stall speed being low is fine! No lock-up decelerating is fine! As long as the lock-up will work with an aftermarket, stand alone lock-up control and the converter will bolt up, its all good!!! Anything else that will allow the 700 to not FIT into and BOLT up and OPERATE in my gas 'Burban?

. . . Shades, hey dude.

you've stepped over that "if there's anything else to do" boundry....lol. Not unusual in here.

I think you're going to be better off buying a "core" and having your buddy build it. JMO....but then you won't have those evil thoughts running around in the back of your head about the one your other buddy traded you out for. AND.....you'll still have yer 350!!!!!

Gary is going to be able to relay more about the internals, updates, and mods. He's the builder dude......and hands on is where you get yer best advice. In my position, I don't have to concern myself with grinding valve lands, leaving out a clutch, drilling out spacer plates, or the other aspects of fine tuning a tranny,........I know the technical aspects, the proceedures, and the basic why's and how to's of the workings, and more importantly the what not's. But...I wouldn't want a veteran surgery assistant doing my triple bypass.....I would insist on the heart dude.

I can offer up general specs though..... something that I am tops at.

info..links...4-U

: WorkShop : Manual Auto Tranny Address:

RPM Calculator Address:

marsh ~:~ =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Re: Transmission interchangability... Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Wed, Oct 29, 2003, 12:25am From: shades snipped-for-privacy@netins.net (Shades) =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0My 'Burban is my daily driver, my Family truckster.I currently have 3.73's in a 10blt front and a 12blt rear. Take off is good for a semi-stock 350 in a 6000lb SUV w/33's. Problem is that by the time I get up to highway speed, i.e. 75mph, the engine starts doing its impersonation of a rubberband. 3100rpm isn't high, but on a 2.5hr trip to Omaha, its a bit annoying. Not to mention the MUCH shorter life that the engine will see. I can put in a 10blt front and 12blt rear that have

3.08 gears. But I don't feel like installing rocket boosters just to drive away from a stop sign. It would give me the desired drivability going down the road, but at town and off-road drivability. I am planning on installing a HD DANA44 front and 14blt rear with 4.10's. Primarily for strength. Also I do some towing and some of it is a decent weight(10K plus). Not to mention the fact that a full floating rear-end will last far longer than a semi-floating rear. A 30% OD with 4.10's is a bit high, all things considered, but there will be 2 gears to select from for going down the road. If I am towing anything substantial, I will not be driving in 4th and not doing 75-80 anyway. Now for Loading up me and my four kids and taking a trip to Omaha or to my friends cabin SW of Denver, spinning my soon to be installed(semi-stock) 454 at a lopey 2400rpm at 75mph will be efficient(for a BB) and comfy. The engine and trans will not be spinning like a washing machine, wearing out their vital fluids prematurely form massive heat and overreving, and yet I will still have massive fun taking my kids off-roading and also getting around town in a way opposite of a wet sponge. =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Now, after all that... What are we talking about for stall speed. Rebuilding cost is NOT a factor. I have a friend that will build me all the TH350's I want for $300 and that is me supplying NOTHING and it includes internal mods to make it a beast. Twice that money and he will do the same with the 700. Rebuild cost is NOT a primary concern! Fitment is, and that has been answered by Marsh, right Gary? Drivability has been addressed, by Marsh. So, what kind of specifics are we talking about here? 800rpm stall? 1200? 1500??? Shift timing and lock-up were addressed in earlier posts! BIG issue or no??? =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0I appreciate ALL the advise and opinions, but more specifics would be appreciated. Biscuit batter? Overstatement or dead on? Numbers are always good. Technical info is GREAT! Again, thanx to EVERYONE who has chimed in on this surprisingly popular post! Gary, Bret, and of course Marsh!!! Thank you!!! =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D