I've just discovered a radiator leak in my 97 GMC 1/2 ton in the
oddest place. It appears to be leaking where the transmission line
makes a connection at the top drivers side of the radiator. The nut
looks like some sort of spanner type nut and I thought I'd try to get
some pointers here before doing anything to tighten the nut (so as not
to make the vehicle immediately not-drivable).
Take a look at this pic if you would...
Right between the nut and the radiator appears to be where this small
but noticable leak is.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
On Apr 22, 9:28 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
that appears to be a plastic tank; the only way you're going to stop
the leak by tightening something is if it's between the flare nut and
its seat. Use a backup wrench on the fitting on the radiator. If the
leak is where you think it is, I'm not aware of a good way to fix it.
If you plan to keep this truck "forever" I will make a suggestion,
which you can use or not at your discretion - if the plastic tank is
cracked under that fitting, it would seem that that is a fatigue
failure and what might be advisable is to cut out a short section of
the supply and return hard lines to the trans and splice in a short
section of hose, to better isolate the radiator from the movement/
vibration of the engine/trans. The thing is, this also introduces
ANOTHER potential point of failure, so... you pays your money and you
takes your chances. If you were to do this, you'd want to definitely
make sure that you use transmission cooler hose, not any other kind,
and proper high pressure clamps. Also I'd recommend taking your
flaring tool and putting a little "bubble" on the cut ends of the hard
line to act as a hose barb; you can do this by just starting a double
flare and not finishing it - use the little anvil, but only tighten
the screw down about halfway.
The correct fix is to remove the rad and take it into a rad shop for
assesment. It may be a minor seal that let go or it may be a cracked
plastic tank. The tanks are replaceable, but the aluminum crimps that
hold is on are very likely to crack off ( rad is now useless). Check
around and get prices on having a new rad made up from copper/brass.
I did on an old chev I had and it was cheaper and faster than
attempting a repair or replacement of the plastic/aluminum rad.
On Apr 22, 12:41 pm, email@example.com wrote:
there are also direct replacement all-aluminum radiators available,
that one is for an AT but without engine oil cooler, I just picked
that as the most likely combo.
| > I've just discovered a radiator leak in my 97 GMC 1/2 ton in the
| > oddest place. It appears to be leaking where the transmission
| > makes a connection at the top drivers side of the radiator. The
| > looks like some sort of spanner type nut and I thought I'd try to
| > some pointers here before doing anything to tighten the nut (so as
| > to make the vehicle immediately not-drivable).
| > Take a look at this pic if you would...
| > Right between the nut and the radiator appears to be where this
| > but noticable leak is.
| > Any advice is greatly appreciated.
| > TIA,
| > John
Those plastic tanks are replacable. You can buy them from any
AC-Delco parts distributor or dealer. They aren't well stocked, but
are available buy special order. They are stocked at the G.M.
warehouse in Fort Worth, Tx.
The replacement tank comes with new seals and everything you need to R
& R the tank.
A replacement plastic tank is about $45.00 and a radiator shop will
install it for a nominal fee.
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