Turn Signal Flasher problem 98 Blazer

I have a 98 Blazer with a turn signal flasher problem. The flasher will continue to cycle generating a clicking sound after the multifunction switch returns to center. The lamps don't flash. Only
the flasher unit continues to make a noise. This failure happens erraticly. It will usually start after a turn has completed. It will stop for a while and then just start up. Accelerations and decelerations seems to make it start up again.
Jiggling the multifunction switch may have some effect on the problem. It is hard to tell for sure since it is erratic. I looked up the circuit schematics in the Helm manual. There is nothing there that seems to indicate that the multifunction switch is the culprit. If it was bad, I would expect to see a lamp flash somewhere. (I need to double check this with someone helping me. With it being erratic, I may have just missed an outside flashing lamp. I am sure that the IP indicators don't flash.)
I also seem to be confused about how the flasher works. From the schematics, I'd swear that in normal operation it always has power. Is it only supposed to operate when a load is hooked up to it? If so, then maybe there is a short somewhere. Then again, maybe the flasher unit is just bad.
Has anyone run into this? Does anyone know how the modern flasher units work?
Thanks,
Doc
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This seems to be happening alot with late model trucks. I don't know why, but the end result will be a bad flasher. .

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I tried replacing the flasher today with no avail. So I took another hard look at the schematic tonight. There are two power terminals on the flasher module. One terminal is feed from the turn signal fuse. The other terminal is feed from the hazard fuse. There is a set of interlocking switches in the mutifunction lever where the hazard switches and the turn signal switches are mechanically interconnected.
I went and giggled the hazard switch button. It might have an effect on the problem. The turn signal lever also has the same fuzzy might have an effect or might not have an effect on the problem. Then after giggling the hazard switch button a bit more, a wisp of smoke came out. Hey! I'm close.
I removed the hazard fuse. The problem still exists. It clicks when it shouldn't. Ok, so it is not just a simple switch failing. It might actually be a wire in the column shorting to the hazard feed that goes to the flasher.
How bad is it to take apart the steering wheel and column on a 98 to get to all this?
(I'm starting to think it's time to take it into a dealer and let them take it apart.)
Doc
On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 05:14:46 GMT, "George"

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I have been experiencing exactly the same condition with my 2000 Silverado. I get the clicking sound but no flashing lights on the IP of outside front or back turn sighanl lights. It has been going on now for about 5 weeks. I have tried all sorts of moving the hazard switch & multifunction lever. I am convinced that neither of these has any influence. I have been driving with the plastic cover off the steering column and the dash so everything is exposed. On several occasions I have observed a thin stream of smoke rising from the switch area on the column. Everytime has been in the morning and there is no heat in the area. Not sure if this is significant or not.
Here is the really strange thing. It was clicking almost constantly when my 18 month old granddaughter began playing with the remote entry. She was basically making the locks and panic button go crazy. After I finally got her to give the remote back to me the clicking sound had stopped. It didn't click except when it was supposed to and it quit exactly like it should. This worked for about 2 weeks/400 miles but has started the clicking again. I try to press the lock unlock button while driving and the sound seems to stop when I do this but then starts again. Not sure if there is a link or not.
I continue to search for the real solution. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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I went to the dealer last week and had the multifunction switch and lever replaced. The switch was failing causing multiple outputs to be active at once or the wrong outputs to be active. The total cost was $375, of which $172 was labor. It will be covered under a third party exended warranty.
My local mechanic claims that the switch can be replaced by itself for about $90 in parts plus labor. The dealer didn't give me a choice of only replacing the switch. Since I will be reimbursed, it is better to get the lever replaced anyway.
Doc
On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 23:54:02 -0400, "Snowdrifter52"

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