unable to remove 1 bolt from water pump -ideas? 88 Jimmy

I have an 1988 GMC Jimmy 2.8l and the water pump went out on it. I really dont even recall ever having to replace the water pump in this. I was worried about the removing the bolts but all them came out easy except for
one of the bigger bolts. A bolt next to it was a little difficult to losen. It did have a little corrosion on it. So I suspect thats whats wrong with this bigger one. The head ended up stripping out trying with a lot of force to get it to break free (It was a T50 size). So I then just cut the head off to remove the old pump. I have sprayed a lot of WD40 up in the threads and let it soak for a couple days. The remaining bolt stud just refuses to budge any. The only way I can grip it hard enough is with a pipe wrench. But the bolt stud finally gives by the wrench cutting in.
So I can only think of two options left for me.
1. Install the new pump and gasket and hope it does not leak around this area where it will be missing a bolt.
2. Install the new pump and attempt to tap a smaller hole and insert a small bolt in the stud of what remains of this old bolt.
How does this sound? Any other ideas out there?
I hope this can last at least another 6 months or so as its my sons and he just got a good job so he can get him another car.
TIA
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#1` is a bad move- it WILL leak.
#2 not a great move, either.
way I usually solve this problem is <assuming you have the old WP off alrady and are just fighting the remains of the rusted-in stud> weld a nut to the broken off stud. It may help to cut the stud down some so that when you do this the heat of welding gets in there and helps loosen the rust. Spray the affected bolt liberally with PB Blaster <no substitution here>. Tap it and take a break for a few hours, or preferably come back the nerxt day. Give the PB time to work it's magic. Do this a few times- most likely you will find the bolt loosens up enough that it will come out as easily as the others. If not- well...then take a breaker bar and with increasing pressure try to TIGHTEN the bolt just a bit. Then loosen till it tightens up a bit. Lather, rinse repeat. You're basically using the bolt as a tap. Once it's out, chase the threads and use antiseize on the new stud.
If arm power doesn't work-- get out the impact wrench. Proceed as above-- starting at the lowest torque setting and proceeding up.
Have never had a botl not come out in short order with this method. I suppose worst case it will sheer off at the block, in which case you really have no choice but to proceed as #2 above, though I'd try an EZ out first.
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OK, I will find someone to weld a nut to it. I have not thought of that and sounds the best option. What is PB Blaster and where do I find that?
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PB Blaster is THE BEST rust penetrant around, bar none. A friend had Pep Boys service <read: mangle> his AC lines. The monkey they put on the task broke one of the lines because of misuse of tools and the fact the lines were galvanically bonded. In fixing the lines <and saving my buddy $600> I had him do the PB Blaster soak for 3 days <we'd tried to use wrenches <properly this time> and couldn't budge them>. On day three when he tapped the fitting it moved. He then removed it with his bare fingers.
It's nothing less than awesome stuff. Get it at Advance Auto Parts.
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I already ran down to O'Reilly's and picked some up after your post. It's always right in the front of the store and I never really paid attention to it. I will now! I got the bolt soaking now.

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Good luck with it!
Give it a couple days and I honestly doubt you'll even have to do the welding trick.
Check out the bolt extractors at Advance, too-- they're much the same as the Sears Craftsman product-- no drilling involved, it actually bites into the steel. I've had good luck with them.
First I'd try two nuts on the stud-- wrenched together as a jamnut, then use the inner one to try to back the stud out after a liberal couple days' does of PB.
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Before you exert any force with the bolt/stud extractors, grab a propane torch and quickly blast the area immediately AROUND the broken bolt for about 30 to 45 seconds (DO NOT HEAT THE BOLT DIRECTLY). Then give it a yank (when metal is heated, it expands, and so do the holes). Good luck! Good advice from burntkat!
Franko

have to do the

much the same

actually
a jamnut,

liberal
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Thanks Franko and burntkat! I finally got the bolt out! I did it by spraying around it with the PB Blaster (it doesnt really look like it made it down the bolt) and the Bolt removers from Sears and heating around it. Boy, those bolt removers from Sears really bite in to the stud good! Now if I can just get this off the old stud!
Now I am just looking for a replacement bolt (M10 1.50 x75). I checked 3 different auto places and they just have up to 40 length. I checked Lowes and they had a hex head the correct size but I am not sure it will work in this high temp application. Anyone else knows if these are ok to use in an engine. I have a friend checking at the auto place he works at. I may have to make a visit to a salvage yard as well.
thanks again
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Excellent! Glad to hear it. Your best bet may be the salvage yard for the replacement bolt if you don't want to go to the dealer. Don't forget to use anti-seize and/or thread sealant as appropriate.
As to getting the broken stud out of the bolt/stud remover, clamp the stud in a bench vise (better than a vise-grip) because that sucker is really TIGHT.
Just an FYI, had the PB Blaster and propane torch not worked, the next step would have been: use an oxy-acetylene torch to really heat the bolt, wait a half a minute or so, then touch/rub a candle onto the hot stud -- the melted wax will wick into the threads and should allow you to remove the bolt.
Franko

extractors,
immediately
NOT
metal is

Good
did it by spraying

it made it down

around it. Boy, those

Now if I can just

x75). I checked 3

I checked Lowes

it will work in

ok to use in an

works at. I may have

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I just bought some Grade 8 <well metric equiv> hex-head M10X1.5 bolts yesterday. No problem at all. I've used their hardware in many applcations from holding the pulley to my WP when I deleted the mech fan to mounting my winch to my jeep, with no problems.
BTW- to make things easier-- 75mm is close enough to 3" for government work. I should know. ;)
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mesnt to say, this was at Lowe's. I always go there for my hardware needs, as the place near the house is no longer dependable to even have 1/4X20s in, let alone some of the odder sizes.
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