Update: What Wynn's told me

This post is regarding the "odd cooling system problem," post of 10/31.
I have not had the "wanting to overheat," problem the last few days.
Its been cold, don't know why. I found out maybe because I took a chance. Allowing for deviation in the heat gauge to as much as + or - 30F, I let the thing rise without turning on the blower and heater. [Which I thought, before, maybe made it start to cool down]. Engine temp made it half way between 210F [normal op temp], and 260F, [redline], and went back down on its own. If the gauge is off -30F, that would mean it could have gotten to an actual temp of 240F, before it started to go down. Personally, I think thats definately too hot to run this [4K miles], 2.8 V6.
After reading what Gary said in reply to my first post, I searched for contacts for Wynn's Austrailian and US websites for contacts. Though half of the email addresses I could find for them bounced, I did get a reply from an engineer, employee of Wynn's. In fact, several replies, after the initial question I questioned till I got some understanding. I commend them for that, and this group for your comments. Here is what the man said:
"With regards to your thermostat sticking while the car is warming up there can be many reasons here, there are a few like a failed head gasket, retarded valve timing, or perhaps there could be a build up of scale in the engine block and it may be in need of a chemical flush all these problems can cause a motor to run hot which in turn will cause air to settle under the thermostat and prevent it from opening, especially on start up."
I questioned a little more, and he said this: " a failed head gasket at the combustion ring may cause a thermostat to stick because the clamp load between head and block is less when cold therefore you may have combustion pressure leaking into the cooling system when cold which in turn allows air to collect under the thermostat preventing it from opening."
Well,...bad as I hate to admit it,... that made some sense to me, thought it may have been worth sharing, so there you go. [I still hope it ain't true]! The head gasket I mean.
What about putting mechanical gauges in this, [1988], truck after the flush? At least for water temp and oil pressure. Would I get more accuracy and maybe some dire prevention?
Also, if someone already suggested these possible scenarios to my earlier post, I apologize. I know that I don't get all posts in this or any other group, using my ISP's freebie cheap corp account.
Hatt
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My 94 did this, until I flushed and the colling system. It hasn't sone it since. Dan
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Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it.
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I'd say you could. If only because after market gauges are "larger". They still may be say 1.25" across, but instead of using 1/3 as gauge space, they use 2/3, so you can read it more accurately. OP and TEMP sensors are easy to instal, and WalMart has them cheap too (ammeter, op and temp, $19.99 w/ bulbs wire and tubing and a manual)
-The Lonely Grease Monkey 1985' K5 305CUI TH700R4 NP208 ~the cheap ass bastard~
"Ignorance is preferable to error; and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing, then he who believes what is a wrong." - Thomas Jefferson
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Wynn's will blow you in order to get you to purchase their equipment! Their coolant machine causes more problems than it's worth.
I would change out the usual suspects as you mentioned, including the pressure cap. You can raise the boiling point 3 degrees f for each pound of cooling system pressure, but 260 f is too high, temps at which it "smells hot".
Have qa great one!
Bush
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