Whaddya guys think?

hey Doc... do you fill your filter before putting it on (like you're supposed to but most of us don't) or just drain the oil, screw it in and put new oil in?

Just wondering if it's taking the new filters time to "fill and pressurize" or something...

he's got a blue '90 C1500 w/ a 305 and a TH400.

-Bret

Yeah, I fill em' every time before I put them on. Everyone seems to think it's the lifters, but I know it isn't for several reasons:

1. No lifter noise on ANY cold start after the first 5 or so cold starts after filter change.
2. Lifter noise does NOT dissipate even after a minute of running. The only way I can get it to stop is to shut the truck off and then restart it. On restart it's quiet as it should be.

With all the information I provide on here I would have expected people to give me just a little more credit!

Doc

I use em'.

Doc

Thank you Bret. Actually it's an 88', but everything else is correct.

Doc

Is the weather different now? How bout this, the new filters have a different element that slows the flow...Do you fill them up with oil when you install? Just thoughts....Very strange how it does it for 5 or so starts only, then all is ok......Thats a good one. I'll go with the filter media is hard or thicker or both, then after its run for a while it gets softer and flows better hot and cold. Know what I mean.?

I was just thinking that, Scott. Hey Doc, what brand/grade oil do you use?

Franko

Yeah, I know exactly what you mean, and it's a good thought. I also liked El Diablo's idea on the bypass spring mechanism. It's gotta be one of the two, or a combination of both. I'm 99.9% certain it isn't the lifters as if it was, the noise would be there on every cold start, not just the first 5 or so. Weather has been pretty much the same, although now it's getting colder, and yes, I fill em' up before I install.

Thanks for the brainpower!

Doc

Mobil 1 10W30, which I've been using in it since I got it.

Doc

What's the first thing you do when changing the oil? I always pull the dipstick and the fill cap on the valve cover. That lets air in so the oil doesn't blurp out, making a mess when I drain it. What I'm getting at is a stretch, but what if draining the oil is creating enough vacuum in the block to pull the oil out of any marginal lifters. That 'could' explain the noise and the relationship to oil changes. H

Shouldnt the bypass work only if the filter was plugged or maybe if you use thick oil in the winter........? M1 10-30 wouldn't bypass even when very cold I don't think. Could be a check valve in the new filter "breaking in". I wonder if the AC filter has a stiffer check valve or maybe the M1 doesnt have one at all?? If you ever figure it out please let us all know. I never have cut open an oil filter to see the guts, but now I'm kinda curious.

ok, that's the problem... blue trucks require Mobil One filters, Doc.. I'm surprised that you didn't know that!

Not possible as the crankcase isn't sealed tightly enough to create any type of vacuum during an oil change. There is a wide open breather line (drivers side valve cover), so even with the oil fill cap on there is still airflow to the crankcase.

Doc

Ehhhhh, that was a typo, meant to say check-valve, not bypass valve, sorry. You're right, even at 20* M1 10W30 flows pretty smoothly.

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm thinking.

Doc

Are you using M1 5w30?

I used it in an old truck of mine for 90K miles - I'll never use it again due to that motor's life being cut very short. No, I can't prove the oil had anything to do with it - I'm just not taking any chances.

I've read a few things about it - it's barely rated 30w. It's horribly thin. The other is that it gets "better" with age (mileage). Apparently it's lubricity (is that a word?) isn't good until the oil has a few thousand miles on it.

Let me try to dig up those sources.

-marc

I used to run Glasspacks,but now I use Flowmasters.Sound much better and made more hp.Says the dyno.

(top post)

Doc, worn bottom end bearings being aggrevated by "manufacturer" specific filter design.

a random thought

~:~ marsh ~sees the doc pulling out the hair he had left over after the brake ordeal~ ===== ===== On Oct 31, 2004, 12:27am (CST+2) snipped-for-privacy@nope.com (the Doc) started the thread with: . Fellas, It's happened three times in a row so I know it wasn't just a fluke. I recently switched from using M1 oil filters to AC Delco oil filters in my truck. After every oil change, for the first 5 or so cold starts, I get horrendous lifter noise. The lifters won't shut up until I shut the truck off, then restart. On restart it's nice and quiet. Oil pressure in either instance is 60 psi. After the first 5 or so cold starts with all the bloody racket, all is back to normal until the next oil change.

This never happened with M1 filters which I've been using for the past 5 years or so on this truck.

Any thoughts?? Doc

All the onfo I've ever read on M1 5w30 lead me to believe it was on the higher scale of 30. I've used it in alot of vehicles without issue. When I buy a vehile I'll switch it over to M1 and run the first change for 3,000 miles. Man you ought to see the oil after that first 3,000! It's usally pretty nasty looking because it cleans out alot of the sludge that dino oil has left. After that first change I run 6,000 miles between changes. According to oil analysys, I could go way longer than 6,000 but I figure what the hell, it's cheap insurance. Plus, I can change my oil and rotate my tires at the same time (6,000 mile tire rotations).

I've never heard of M1 causing premature engine failure. What kind of engine was it? I only use 5w30 on lower mileage vehicles that call for 5w30. On older vehicles or vehicles with over 100,000 miles on them I use M1 10w30.

-T> >

Good thought Marsh, but the rod and main bearings are all "newer" and have around 70K miles on em'. I know they job was done right as I did it myself. Oil pressure is phenominal so it's unlikely to be a rod or main bearing. She's due for a change now, so I'm going back to M1 filters and see if that shuts her up.

Doc