Hey Doc... Denny might have a good point there.. (1st time for
If it never happened with mobile one filters, try putting one on..
If putting the M1 filter on makes the problem go away, who really
cares WHY it was doing it, as long as it quit.. YMMV
So what happens when you revert back to the originial oil filter?
I've used A/C filers on all the GM products I've ever owned and to my
knowledge always have had good service from them.
This ony started when you changed to a different brand filter?
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Is the weather different now? How bout this, the new filters have a
different element that slows the flow...Do you fill them up with oil when
you install? Just thoughts....Very strange how it does it for 5 or so starts
only, then all is ok......Thats a good one. I'll go with the filter media is
hard or thicker or both, then after its run for a while it gets softer and
flows better hot and cold. Know what I mean.?
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Yeah, I know exactly what you mean, and it's a good thought. I also liked
El Diablo's idea on the bypass spring mechanism. It's gotta be one of the
two, or a combination of both. I'm 99.9% certain it isn't the lifters as if
it was, the noise would be there on every cold start, not just the first 5
or so. Weather has been pretty much the same, although now it's getting
colder, and yes, I fill em' up before I install.
Thanks for the brainpower!
What's the first thing you do when changing the oil? I always pull the
dipstick and the fill cap on the valve cover. That lets air in so the oil
doesn't blurp out, making a mess when I drain it. What I'm getting at is a
stretch, but what if draining the oil is creating enough vacuum in the block
to pull the oil out of any marginal lifters. That 'could' explain the noise
and the relationship to oil changes.
Not possible as the crankcase isn't sealed tightly enough to create any type
of vacuum during an oil change. There is a wide open breather line (drivers
side valve cover), so even with the oil fill cap on there is still airflow
to the crankcase.
Shouldnt the bypass work only if the filter was plugged or maybe if you use
thick oil in the winter........? M1 10-30 wouldn't bypass even when very
cold I don't think.
Could be a check valve in the new filter "breaking in". I wonder if the AC
filter has a stiffer check valve or maybe the M1 doesnt have one at all??
If you ever figure it out please let us all know. I never have cut open an
oil filter to see the guts, but now I'm kinda curious.
Are you using M1 5w30?
I used it in an old truck of mine for 90K miles - I'll never use it again
due to that motor's life being cut very short. No, I can't prove the
oil had anything to do with it - I'm just not taking any chances.
I've read a few things about it - it's barely rated 30w. It's horribly
thin. The other is that it gets "better" with age (mileage). Apparently
it's lubricity (is that a word?) isn't good until the oil has a few
thousand miles on it.
Let me try to dig up those sources.
All the onfo I've ever read on M1 5w30 lead me to believe it was on
the higher scale of 30. I've used it in alot of vehicles without
issue. When I buy a vehile I'll switch it over to M1 and run the
first change for 3,000 miles. Man you ought to see the oil after that
first 3,000! It's usally pretty nasty looking because it cleans out
alot of the sludge that dino oil has left. After that first change I
run 6,000 miles between changes. According to oil analysys, I could
go way longer than 6,000 but I figure what the hell, it's cheap
insurance. Plus, I can change my oil and rotate my tires at the same
time (6,000 mile tire rotations).
I've never heard of M1 causing premature engine failure. What kind of
engine was it? I only use 5w30 on lower mileage vehicles that call
for 5w30. On older vehicles or vehicles with over 100,000 miles on
them I use M1 10w30.
Yeah, I saw a test where someone ran M1 5w30 up to (I think) 18,000 miles
before they decided to change it out. The oil anaysis said it was still
okay for a little while longer. That's insane. That's the test that
indicated the oil got 'better' with it's age...
Mine was the 4.3 V6 - 2000 Blazer. I change the oil every 5K. The
motor started to really lack power on the highway when it got up there
in age. At 90K miles, it was burning almost a quart a oil change.
At 95K miles, I started it one cold morning and thought a rod was going
to come out the pan - I've never heard a motor rap so loud and stay
The stuff I was reading about was all in the GenIII motors. Mostly
high performance (6000+RPM) LS1 stuff. Everything I've read indicated
that 5w30 was generally too thin for heavy duty or high performance use.
I really gotta dig up that info... I read it a while back...
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