window drive motor

90 Blazer Full Size. How in the devil do you get the gol dang motor out?
There is a hole there I can just barley squeeze my arm through, I can feel the motor down there, just cant figure out how to get the dang
thing out so I can put the new one in. There are 2 nuts up high and 2 bolts down low from the outer part of the door but taking them off does not seem to loosen the motor in any way. (I have the door panel off and checked the switch, it is good so Im pretty sure its the motor) It is still attatched to the gear drive somehow, but I cant find out where. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. send elves. My arms are to damn big to work through the small hole provided.
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I have not done it on my chevrolet Tahoe, but on my 1989 ford bronco, i used a small grinder to grind a larger hole in the metal door panel so i could simply undo the bolts anf remove the motor through the hole. had to do it later on both doors and it was easy. now i can access the motors in minutes. old john
Hello, Shelldigger! You wrote on Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:43:44 -0700 (PDT):
S> There is a hole there I can just barley squeeze my arm through, I can S> feel the motor down there, just cant figure out how to get the dang S> thing out so I can put the new one in. There are 2 nuts up high and 2 S> bolts down low from the outer part of the door but taking them off S> does not seem to loosen the motor in any way. (I have the door panel S> off and checked the switch, it is good so Im pretty sure its the S> motor) It is still attatched to the gear drive somehow, but I cant S> find out where. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
With best regards, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. E-mail: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net
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Am I really going to have to take a grinder to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a new one in....or is there a little known tip, secret, technique to to do this? Ill tell you right now the Haynes manual I have is worthless on many accounts, but especially here. They dedicate 1 paragraph to power windows, and none of it explains how or where to do a damn thing.
There is a carpet panel I can pull that is close to the window motor. I suppose I can take a grinder and cut the door out so the panel will cover it once I get the motor traded out....it just seems ridiculous to have to do that though.

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Shelldigger wrote:

The motor and lift linkage come out as one piece. You need to pull the entire inner door panel off. Then the linkage and motor can come out the bottom access in the door. Under the plastic panel you will find the dust/water shield that also gets pulled off. (looks like stiff paper with a bead of sealer around the edge). No need to cut extra holes.
--
Steve W.

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Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out of them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide access, but solid steel underneath.
So...the entire lift assembly has to be taken out to replace the motor? Im going to need a big friggin hole!
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I've never seen a access hole like he is describing before. I know my S10 most certainly does not have one, nor does the Silverado truck.
I think I will have to cut out the metal.
Lannie
wrote:

Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out of them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide access, but solid steel underneath.
So...the entire lift assembly has to be taken out to replace the motor? Im going to need a big friggin hole!
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No such luck for me either. Cutting the hole aint so bad, and damn near impossible job without making a hole in the door. Good news is only 3 bolts and it drops out, no need to take out entire window lift assembly.
On Apr 24, 1:36pm, "Lannie Schafroth" <lannie at ct-iowa dot com> wrote:

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I got into this thread late. What kind of truck is this? I have a 99 silverado and it was as simple as removing the 6 little bolts that hold the regulator in. Then the regulator folds up and slips right out through the access panel. I can't imagine cutting a hole. Surely they didn't install a window motor and then spot weld the inner door panel to cover it up. If you had gone to a dealer, I don't think they would cut a hole in your door, either.
Shelldigger wrote:

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George wrote:

I have done a bunch of them both full sized and s series and never cut a hole. They all have had access holes large enough to remove the window actuator. Just try telling a customer that you had to cut a hole in the door panel to work on the regulator.
That is why I said you don't need to cut out anything.
--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
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90 Blazer Full size.
...and if there "was" an access hole, Im pretty sure Im not that scatterbrained to have not found it. Just aint there. Solid steel save for a couple of small holes, and neither of them are big enough or close enough to the motor, to help. After cutting the hole, I realize there is absolutely no way of doing this job, on this truck, without cutting the hole. Unless you got elves.
...and I was thinking too, how the hell did a repair shop explain to a customer they had to cut a hole in the door? Just did not make sense...bad design, good execution of a bad design.

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As i said twice, grind a hole with a cutout disk an then the motor can be diconected and dropped right through the hole(about 3" in diameter. nothing else is required. old john
Hello, Shelldigger! You wrote on Thu, 24 Apr 2008 04:47:39 -0700 (PDT):
??>> Shelldigger wrote: ??>>> Am I really going to have to take a grinder ??>>> to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a new ??>>> one in....or is there a little known tip, secret, technique to to do ??>>> this? Ill tell you right now the Haynes manual I have is worthless on ??>>> many accounts, but especially here. They dedicate 1 paragraph to ??>>> power ??>>> windows, and none of it explains how or where to do a damn thing. ??>> ??>>> There is a carpet panel I can pull that is close to the window motor. ??>>> I ??>>> suppose I can take a grinder and cut the door out so the panel will ??>>> cover it ??>>> once I get the motor traded out....it just seems ridiculous to have ??>>> to do that though. ??>> ??>> The motor and lift linkage come out as one piece. You need to pull the ??>> entire inner door panel off. Then the linkage and motor can come out ??>> the bottom access in the door. Under the plastic panel you will find ??>> the dust/water shield that also gets pulled off. (looks like stiff ??>> paper with a bead of sealer around the edge). No need to cut extra ??>> holes. ??>> ??>> -- ??>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text - ??>> ??>> - Show quoted text -
S> Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid S> save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out of S> them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide access, S> but solid steel underneath.
With best regards, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. E-mail: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net
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I know, I know, I hear you, just having difficulty getting it through my thick skull. It just doesnt seem "right" to have to do this....
Will begin grinder operations today.

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Well whadayaknow. After grinding a hole roughly 8.75x3.5 inches in the door, it was easy as pie. 3 bolts and the motor dropped right out. The replacement wasnt exactly "bolt on" but was able to sort out what needed doing and get it mounted.
Tip, if you have to do this, taking the time needed to file down the hole perimeter, while time consuming and a sweaty job, is well worth not having you arm sliced to pieces.
Thanks much for the advice guys!

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wrote:

the edges instead of running the sanding wheel over 'em..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
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Lol! Theres always a wise guy with a simpler solution. I will slap myself now...I spent like 20 minutes with a file on that hole, in 80 degree weather.

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your welcome old john
Hello, Shelldigger! You wrote on Sat, 26 Apr 2008 05:01:52 -0700 (PDT):
S> Tip, if you have to do this, taking the time needed to file down the S> hole perimeter, while time consuming and a sweaty job, is well worth S> not having you arm sliced to pieces.
S> Thanks much for the advice guys!
??>> I know, I know, I hear you, just having difficulty getting it through ??>> my thick skull. It just doesnt seem "right" to have to do this.... ??>> ??>> Will begin grinder operations today. ??>>
??>> ??>>> As i said twice, grind a hole with a cutout disk an then the motor ??>>> can be diconected and dropped right through the hole(about 3" in ??>>> diameter. nothing else is required. old john ??>> ??>>> Hello, Shelldigger! ??>>> You wrote on Thu, 24 Apr 2008 04:47:39 -0700 (PDT): ??>>
Shelldigger wrote: ??>> ??>>>>>> Am I really going to have to take a grinder ??>>>>>> to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a ??>>>>>> new one in....or is there a little known tip, secret, technique ??>>>>>> to to do this? Ill tell you right now the Haynes manual I have is ??>>>>>> worthless on many accounts, but especially here. They dedicate 1 ??>>>>>> paragraph to power windows, and none of it explains how or where ??>>>>>> to do a damn thing. ??>>>>> ??>>>>>> There is a carpet panel I can pull that is close to the window ??>>>>>> motor. I suppose I can take a grinder and cut the door out so the ??>>>>>> panel will cover it once I get the motor traded out....it just ??>>>>>> seems ridiculous to have to do that though. ??>>>>> ??>>>>> The motor and lift linkage come out as one piece. You need to pull ??>>>>> the entire inner door panel off. Then the linkage and motor can ??>>>>> come out the bottom access in the door. Under the plastic panel ??>>>>> you will find the dust/water shield that also gets pulled off. ??>>>>> (looks like stiff paper with a bead of sealer around the edge). No ??>>>>> need to cut extra holes. ??>>>>> ??>>>>> -- ??>>>>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text - ??>>>>> ??>>>>> - Show quoted text - ??>> S>>>> Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid S>>>> save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out S>>>> of them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide S>>>> access, but solid steel underneath. ??>> ??>>> With best regards, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. E-mail: ??>>> snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net- Hide quoted text - ??>> ??>> - Show quoted text -
With best regards, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. E-mail: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net
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