yukon taking longer to start

This is a wild hair, but my '96 K1500 sometimes takes a long time to start, and it's currently in the shop, my mechanic friend told me (he brought it up) that he didn't like the cranking time on my truck and was wondering about the fuel pump relay.. like the fuel pump wasn't kicking in untill oil pressure had built up.. we check the relay and could feel it click but that dosen't mean it was doing what it was sposed to exectrically.. so anyway we are going to look into it.. b4 he brought up the relay i was really wondering about the fuel pressure regulator or an injector.. so i don't really know but we are going to check it all out.. one thing i've notced about my truck is that after long crankin the exhaust is really rich smelling..

The relay would be the cheapest place to start looking..

Adair

PS I am not a mechanic.. lol just an observation.

Slash,

First off, if you do decide to change your fuel filter, don't go to the dealer. Price wise, I work at a quick lube place (won't say the name 'cause I don't want this to look like a cheap plug for my place of employment), and we change them for around $50 (price varies depending on the filter itself). What else was included in this "tune up"? Check out some local garages before you do anything. If it's just fluid exchanges, again most quick lubes will do it for a lot less and you won't have to drop off you car for a day or two. If it's a typical tune up, plugs rotors wires and stuff like that, definitely don't go to the dealer. My other car is a 90 Audi 200TQ and the price for the tune up on that was around 1/2 that price (in case you didn't know, Audis and any German "luxury" car for that matter, are very expensive to maintain. That's a big part of the reason why I bought my truck, to learn the mechanical before I work on my baby, but that's a different story.)

It's probably a leaking injector(s) that is flooding the cylinder(s). run some injector cleaner through the system, thats all the dealer will do and he will call it an injector cleaning and charge at least $75

The dealer also suggested that it takes a special tool to change the fuel filter...true or no?

The only 'tool' I've seen to change fuel filters are those little plastic clips (couple of bucks at Autozone) that slide onto the fuel line and are used to release the filter clip from the line. Not much 'special' about them.

Bought a can of injector cleaner for $3.99 and within 5 miles of driving after dumping the can in my tank and filling up, all my starting problem is solved. Amazing ain't it? Shit in a can that actually works...strange but true.

I was hoping you'd post an update because I'm having exactly the same problem with my Tahoe. Unfortunately, I tried the in-tank injector additive, replaced the plugs, wires and module, fuel filter and, finally, had the dealer service the injectors and clean the throttle body. Still got the problem. Runs perfectly as always after starting, but just doesn't fire instantly like it used to. Only seems to do it when the engine's warm though.

JB

Slash wrote:

are we talking about warm-only harder starting?? my 91 K1500 takes at least

2 or 3 seconds of continuous cranking when ice-cold to start. when warm, a quick turn of the key....

??

b

TBI vs. MPFI. With TBI, there is simply more geography between the injectors and the cylinder. With MPFI, the injector is practically in the cylinder which is why they always fire quicker than TBI and should start almost instantly. TBI's start right away when warm as there is enough juice left in the intake runner to lite her off right away.

Doc

Mine has always fired right up hot or cold. Now it seems to take longer only when the engine's warm. It's backfired through the intake a couple of times. I was getting a PO430 code lately and suspected the O2 sensor(B2S1) was causing low cat effeciency. Replaced it, but no help. B1S1 was replaced recently. No other codes showing currently. Runs great otherwise.

JB

"Doc" wrote:

PO430 usually indicates POST-cat sensor, right bank, NOT pre-cat sensor. You replaced the wrong one. Also, backfiring thru the TB indicates one of two things: timing incorrect, mixture incorrect.

Doc

a combination of hard starting + backfiring would have me looking at the O2 figures really hard, probably running very lean, maybe fuel pump or filter...............................

works...strange

Just what I was thinking..........

Doc

Replaced the fuel filter recently. Fuel pressure's at the low end of the normal range. I'm thinking now the fuel pump's goin' south on me. Not what I was hoping for.

Timing's regulated by the computer. Correct or not?

JB

"Doc" wrote:

Yup, controlled by the computer.

Doc

I have a 1999 silverado with a similar problem, in some posting I read where it may be the fuel pressure regulator, an easy at home fix.

see: Hard starting sierra could be an end to your problem.

I had the same problem and, sure enough, it was the fuel pressure regulator. Starts great now.

JB

snipped-for-privacy@earthl>

I have found that if I leave my key in the on position for a second or two before cranking that it fires right up...does this still sound like the fuel pressure regulator? Is it easy to change?

Pull the vacuum hose off of the regulator. If any fuel is present, the reg. is bad.

Dave