it doesn't start instantly anymore, takes a second or two of cranking. The
dealer offered a 90000 mile service which he called a tuneup for $899. But
said it was probably my fuel filter causing the prob which he would gladly
This is a wild hair, but my '96 K1500 sometimes takes a long time to start,
and it's currently in the shop, my mechanic friend told me (he brought it
up) that he didn't like the cranking time on my truck and was wondering
about the fuel pump relay.. like the fuel pump wasn't kicking in untill oil
pressure had built up.. we check the relay and could feel it click but that
dosen't mean it was doing what it was sposed to exectrically.. so anyway we
are going to look into it..
b4 he brought up the relay i was really wondering about the fuel pressure
regulator or an injector.. so i don't really know but we are going to check
it all out..
one thing i've notced about my truck is that after long crankin the exhaust
is really rich smelling..
The relay would be the cheapest place to start looking..
I am not a mechanic.. lol just an observation.
First off, if you do decide to change your fuel filter, don't go to the
dealer. Price wise, I work at a quick lube place (won't say the name 'cause
I don't want this to look like a cheap plug for my place of employment), and
we change them for around $50 (price varies depending on the filter itself).
What else was included in this "tune up"? Check out some local garages
before you do anything. If it's just fluid exchanges, again most quick
lubes will do it for a lot less and you won't have to drop off you car for a
day or two. If it's a typical tune up, plugs rotors wires and stuff like
that, definitely don't go to the dealer. My other car is a 90 Audi 200TQ
and the price for the tune up on that was around 1/2 that price (in case you
didn't know, Audis and any German "luxury" car for that matter, are very
expensive to maintain. That's a big part of the reason why I bought my
truck, to learn the mechanical before I work on my baby, but that's a
It's probably a leaking injector(s) that is flooding the cylinder(s). run
some injector cleaner through the system, thats all the dealer will do and
he will call it an injector cleaning and charge at least $75
The only 'tool' I've seen to change fuel filters are those little
plastic clips (couple of bucks at Autozone) that slide onto the fuel
line and are used to release the filter clip from the line. Not much
'special' about them.
Bought a can of injector cleaner for $3.99 and within 5 miles of driving
after dumping the can in my tank and filling up, all my starting problem is
solved. Amazing ain't it? Shit in a can that actually works...strange but
I was hoping you'd post an update because I'm having exactly the same
problem with my Tahoe. Unfortunately, I tried the in-tank injector
additive, replaced the plugs, wires and module, fuel filter and,
finally, had the dealer service the injectors and clean the throttle
body. Still got the problem. Runs perfectly as always after starting,
but just doesn't fire instantly like it used to. Only seems to do it
when the engine's warm though.
Mine has always fired right up hot or cold. Now it seems to take longer
only when the engine's warm. It's backfired through the intake a couple
of times. I was getting a PO430 code lately and suspected the O2
sensor(B2S1) was causing low cat effeciency. Replaced it, but no help.
B1S1 was replaced recently. No other codes showing currently. Runs great
Replaced the fuel filter recently. Fuel pressure's at the low end of the
normal range. I'm thinking now the fuel pump's goin' south on me. Not
what I was hoping for.
Timing's regulated by the computer. Correct or not?
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.