1990 Integra no start

1990 Integra no start,gets fuel(you can smell it),pulled cap,rotors turning,stuck a plug in the end of the sparkplug lead,no spark,battery seems fine and motor turns over good,I went to move the car about three
hundred feet,went and did some stuff,came back and no start,it has been raining here the past 4 days think that might be contributing to it?,been running like a champ before that,I did notice the inside of the cap looked pretty cooked.
vehicle is a 1990 Integra GS 5 speed,about 203k miles on it
any help would be appreciated
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jake Jones) wrote in

When you crank and the engine won't start, does the tach needle jiggle ever so slightly, or is it dead-still?
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ever so slightly,thanks for the quick response
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jake Jones) wrote in (Jake Jones) wrote:

Then your igniter is OK and you're getting power to the ignition.
Just how old are the cap, rotor, and wires?
I'd suggest that your coil is bad, but your reported condition of the distributor cap has me wondering. It's equally possible at this point that current is simply leaking to ground through the distributor cap body. Are there any black lines down the inside of the distributor cap? Any cracks?
By the way, _NEVER_ attempt to verify engine rotation by removing the distributor cap and watching the rotor turn. Doing that will damage a good coil and wreck a weak coil. If you want to make sure the engine is turning when the starter is operated, just pull the oil filler cap and observe cam rotation inside the filler neck.
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The end of the rotor looks like someone rubbed it on the sidewalk,pretty rough,the one spring loaded contact inside the cap looks like the end of a used arc welding rod,both replaced maybe 50'000 miles ago......the wires I know have to be at least ten years old.
How will turning the motor over without a cap wreck the coil? Just wondering,never heard of this before.
Once again thanks for the help.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jake Jones) wrote in

Then you need to replace the entire HT side, cap, rotor, wires and plugs all at once.
If the car still refuses to start, then the coil is probably dead.

You overheat the coil that way, since the HT current has nowhere to go and burrows its way through the coil housing. <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecondary/internal-arcing.html
This did not used to happen with the old cylindrical oil-filled coils, since they had more heat-sink mass.
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Pulled the cap this morning,the little plastic guard,half round mouthpiece looking thing was broken,do I need one of them too or can I run without it.
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cap,rotor,wires,no luck,did pull the plugs and the holes were full of oil,soI am guessing I gotta put a valve cover gasket on it too......anybody know who's got coils at a good price?
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jake Jones) wrote in

Wrecking yard.
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For both parts (coil & that other piece), by the way...
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the "pick your part" yard sells the whole distributor for 25.00,so I am thinking that would be the route to go,I get everything in one shot.
the sparkplug hole with the oil in it concerns me,when I pulled the sparkplug the oil drained down to the cylinder,maybe 2teaspoons worth,anything I should be really concerned with
once again thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jake Jones) wrote in

Good idea.

Yep. See here for the fix: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html You only have the upper grommets, so your fix is trivially simple.
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