1991 Integra gives code 15

My 1991 Acura Integra LS (1800cc) will run for a while (usually just enough to get me out of walking distance of the house), but when it heats up enough, the ignition system shuts down. No spark, nothing. After cooling for a little while, it will run a little longer untill it heats up, then dies again. I found the ECU and it flashes a code

15, which translates to "Ignition Output signal".

I just replaced the rotor (after the problems started; it was a cheap place to start.), and it didn?t solve anything. When it is running, it seems to run just fine, full power, good response, until it just stops without warning. Does anybody have any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
bachisanerd
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bachisanerd wrote in news:1_608970 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

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Reply to
TeGGeR®

"TeGGeR®" wrote in news:Xns967A62873F1CFtegger@207.14.113.17:

I should also say that the usual failure mode if the igniter is total loss of ability to start the car. It will just die then refuse to start at all. Your symptoms do not jibe with those.

So go here too:

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There's also the condenser on the distributor body. It can go bad, resulting in a weak spark. Just above Item 12 in this pic:
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Do not forget to check for corroded and damaged wiring, which can cause running problems as well.

Reply to
TeGGeR®

"TeGGeR®" wrote: > bachisanerd wrote in > news:1_608970 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com: > > > My 1991 Acura Integra LS (1800cc) will run for a while > (usually just > > enough to get me out of walking distance of the house), but > when it > > heats up enough, the ignition system shuts down. No spark, > nothing. > > After cooling for a little while, it will run a little > longer untill > > it heats up, then dies again. I found the ECU and it > flashes a code > > 15, which translates to "Ignition Output signal". > > > > I just replaced the rotor (after the problems started; it > was a cheap > > place to start.), and it didn?t solve anything. When it is > running, > > it seems to run just fine, full power, good response, until > it just > > stops without warning. Does anybody have any ideas? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > >

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> > > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ >
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Thanks a bunch, replacing the Igniter module solved the problem.

I?ll explain some of the other details that led up to the total breakdown of the part that make more sense now that I know what is going on just in case it could help some other frusterated soul:

A few weeks before the car would actaully die, I would be on the freeway and the car would cough just slightly and the Tach would fall to 0 and then immediately recover. This would happen every week or so, and I thought it was a computer glitch or something like that. When the car started dying, at very first it could be revived by clicking the key off then on again, without even stopping the car. It got worse though, and the car would have to sit idle for a while before it would run again. I needed the car so I kept driving it as much as I dared, but it would go less and less far every time. I finally had to park it in my dad?s driveway untill I could get it fixed.

I was afraid that it was going to cost me a bunch of money to fix because it was an electrical problem, and it appeared to be far beyond the scope of what I was used to figuring out on my ?75 Gremlin. I was afraid that the car?s onboard computer would have to be replaced and I started looking in the classifieds for a replacement car.

However, thanks to this spiffy board and about $70, I?m back in business. The links were helpfull. One thing to add: The instructions that explain how to replace the igniter unit have the distributor off of the car. I worked at this for a bit and couldn?t figre how to get it off. However, with the 3 bolts that hold the distributor body to the head of the engine removed, I found that I could move the thing around enough to get some tools in there so I was able to replace the Igniter. IMPORTANT NOTE: If you start twisting the distributor around, you?ll loose your timing, like in the old Gremlin days where you would rotate the cap. Make sure you mark the distributor and engine so that when you tighten it all together again the timing works right. (I do things by figuring them out. If this procedure is not a good idea, would somebody who knows better please point it out for the sake of somebody who might see my bad advice in the future?)

Thanks again, and long live usenet!

Reply to
bachisanerd

bachisanerd wrote in news:1_610835 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

I wish you'd given these details at the beginning. That is *the* classic symptom of a failing igniter.

The tach gets its signal from the igniter. If the igniter fails, even momentarily, the tach will also lose its signal.

Honda computers do NOT go bad unless they've suffered some sort of trauma, like a flood or impact, or have wiring damage. They are extraordinarily durable.

I could add distributor removal to the FAQ. If somebody wants to submit pics, that would be nice.

However, with the 3 bolts that hold the

You should get a cheap timing light and reset the timing properly. You've only approximated the correct timing, and it doesn't take much to put it out of spec.

For sure. Glad you fixed it.

Reply to
TeGGeR®

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