1993 Legend A/C Pulley question

does anyone have a schematic of replacing the a/c pulley (tensioner)?
Also it the alternator belt must be removed (replaced) while I replace the failed pulley?
I attempted to loosen the tension on the alternator that did not work. Also I rtried removing several bolts as per my Haynes manual and that didn't do the trick.
The Haynes manual shows two bolts holding the alternator pulley and my alternator pulley has only one?
SO I am a bit stupmed on this portion of the fix.
Also, the a/c pulley tensioner when I used the old washers and spacers it seems to be fitting strange? A schematic would be great. (I purchased OE stuff from AutoPartsWarehouse.com)
Oh and a special thanks to Tegger for all of your excellent posts, and moderating of the group !!!
Darren
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Lexus Lover wrote:

This may be NO HELP, but I've replaced a couple idlers on CR-V's per this TSB from Tegger's site:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/crv/x00-003e.pdf
Maybe yours is similar?
'Curly'
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Thanks Curly. That is a bit helpful !!!
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To move the alternator you need to loosen both the upper and lower bolts. The upper one goes through the curved bracket with the long slotted hole.
Chances are the lower bolt will only be accessible from undeneath.
You may need a pry bar to force the alternator towards the block.

Don't try to remove the alternator pulley.

Was it actually OEM or was it "OEM-style"?

I'm not a moderator. This group is unmoderated.
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Tegger

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Tegger,
Do you have a schematic of either procerudre???
Thanks.
Ps. I know you are not a moderator, and that this group os unmoderated, but you do a great job of assisting others...
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This is as close as I can get: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/manual_scans/legend / See the two files with "belt" in their names.
You have a different style of alternator adjustment than I had thought.
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Tegger

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Thanks Tegger & Curly for your help.
I successfully replaced the pulley and put new belts on --
Darren Ps. I am swapping-out the CV joints next - any schematics for that ???
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Excellent!
That's about as simple as it gets, so no schematics needed.
You need to drain the tranny if you're removing the shaft that goes directly into the tranny (passenger side only if you've got a center shaft).
Before you buzz the damper fork bolts loose, measure the diameter of the inner joints. They may be small enough to withdraw from the damper fork without unbolting the lower control arm.
Also make sure you gave a GOOD balljoint tool. You'll NEED it. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html
You'll also need a DeWalt electric impact wrench to get the axle nut loose, and you really should have a new axle nut to replace the old staked one. The DeWalt can be rented for about $25 per day from an industrial supply place.
When you install the new driveshafts, put a bit of oil on the part of the joint that meets the oil seal in the tranny, and make certain you don't fold or tear the seal in the tranny.
The inner joints can be accidentally pulled apart, so make sure you don't allow that to happen.
Oh, and one final thing: If the inner joint boots are buckled slightly and not smoothly corrugated, this buckling will cause very quick failure of the boots. Release the outer band and let some air inside to relieve the vacuum that's causing the buckling. You'll need a new pair of bands and a band-tightening tool.
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Tegger

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Thanks for the info. Tegger !!!
Darren
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