does anyone have a schematic of replacing the a/c pulley (tensioner)?
Also it the alternator belt must be removed (replaced) while I replace
the failed pulley?
I attempted to loosen the tension on the alternator that did not work.
Also I rtried removing several bolts as per my Haynes manual and that
didn't do the trick.
The Haynes manual shows two bolts holding the alternator pulley and my
alternator pulley has only one?
SO I am a bit stupmed on this portion of the fix.
Also, the a/c pulley tensioner when I used the old washers and spacers
it seems to be fitting strange? A schematic would be great. (I
purchased OE stuff from AutoPartsWarehouse.com)
Oh and a special thanks to Tegger for all of your excellent posts, and
moderating of the group !!!
This may be NO HELP, but I've replaced a couple idlers on CR-V's per
this TSB from Tegger's site:
Maybe yours is similar?
To move the alternator you need to loosen both the upper and lower
bolts. The upper one goes through the curved bracket with the long
Chances are the lower bolt will only be accessible from undeneath.
You may need a pry bar to force the alternator towards the block.
This is as close as I can get:
See the two files with "belt" in their names.
You have a different style of alternator adjustment than I had thought.
That's about as simple as it gets, so no schematics needed.
You need to drain the tranny if you're removing the shaft that goes
directly into the tranny (passenger side only if you've got a center
Before you buzz the damper fork bolts loose, measure the diameter of the
inner joints. They may be small enough to withdraw from the damper fork
without unbolting the lower control arm.
Also make sure you gave a GOOD balljoint tool. You'll NEED it.
You'll also need a DeWalt electric impact wrench to get the axle nut
loose, and you really should have a new axle nut to replace the old
The DeWalt can be rented for about $25 per day from an industrial supply
When you install the new driveshafts, put a bit of oil on the part of
the joint that meets the oil seal in the tranny, and make certain you
don't fold or tear the seal in the tranny.
The inner joints can be accidentally pulled apart, so make sure you
don't allow that to happen.
Oh, and one final thing: If the inner joint boots are buckled slightly
and not smoothly corrugated, this buckling will cause very quick failure
of the boots. Release the outer band and let some air inside to relieve
the vacuum that's causing the buckling. You'll need a new pair of bands
and a band-tightening tool.
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