Want to remove the half shaft to replace the inner CV boot. Need to remove
the front hub nut on the front wheel, right? This nut is held on the shaft
with what looks like a key slot with part of the nut is crimped into the key
slot keeping it from coming loose. Do you need a special tool to "uncrimped"
it or just grind this portion off and replace with a new nut? My breaker bar
wouldn't budge the nut either way so is the thread clockwise or counter
clockwise? I know its over 200 ft-lb, have to jump on it. Thanks in advance.
I ground a chisel down narrower so I could 'uncrimp' the bashed-in part
of the nut. I wore rubber boots with steel shanks when jumping on the
breaker bar. No joy. Ended up going over to a tire shop and took along
my own socket. Boy took several seconds to loosen it with air tool. I
gave him $5.
Do NOT "grind" ANYTHING, especially a highly-stressed component like a
It's called a stake nut. Use a small screwdriver and hammer/bend the
stake out until the nut will turn.
Use a new nut when replacing. Grind the end round on an old chisel for
use in re-staking.
More like 134 lbs. Put "over 200" on it and you may snap the nose off
Use a DeWalt DW-293 electric impact wrench. Rentable for about $30/day
from industrial supply houses or buy for $200 at Home Depot.
The DeWalt will spin it off with no effort at all. Wonderful tool. I
You should have a shop manual before attempting repairs like this.
Thanks, got the stake nut out yesterday with an impact wrench. Just
wondering why this nut needs to be crimped down into the keyway, doesn't
seem like its going anywhere with 134 ft lb of torque and the wheel blocking
it from coming off.
Anyway all I could find in terms of the Acura OEM factory manual is in cd
disk form from ebay. Price seems too good for real, are those any good?
1) The wheel is not blocking the nut from coming off, the nut keeps the
wheel from coming off.
2) There has not ever been a single spindle nut ever made (past maybe 1920)
that was not held on with a cotter pin or stake. Time and vibration are
much, much more powerful than you could /ever/ imagine.
Do not fail to stake that nut in place properly.
You can find those manuals online for free, if you know where to look.
Confirm with the (reputable) seller that is in fact the complete Honda/Helm
manual in PDF format and you should be fine.
If you find Honda parts catalogs online, that's a different story. Those
will have been stolen from a dealership somewhere.
The wheel connects to the hub by the wheel nuts. The hub connects to the
steering knuckle by the wheel bearing. The knuckle is held to the control
arms by the balljoints.
If the CV joint nose come loose from the hub, one time you'll go around a
corner and the CV joint will try to come out of the hub. That's where the
possible mess comes in.
Eh, not quite. Hyundai used torque nuts to secure the rear wheel hubs to
the spindle on some early 90's models. One-time use, obviously. Whether
one considers torque nuts to be "pre-staked" is debatable.
OK, we have one exception.
But do you mean "prevailing torque" nuts?
If so, that's just a different way of achieving the same basic end. I
wouldn't consider prevailing torque nuts to be as positive as a stake or
Didn't find torque specifications on the front from the Chilton manual, but
on the rear hub nut it has 206 lb-ft to which I presumed would be the same
for the front hub nut. I know, I need to get a factory manual. Ok, I use 134
Good to know, I'll check out the DW-293. Didn't know electric has this kind
of punch, my cheap one doesn't.
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