1998 integra GSR, how do you remove the front hub nut?

Want to remove the half shaft to replace the inner CV boot. Need to remove the front hub nut on the front wheel, right? This nut is held on the shaft
with what looks like a key slot with part of the nut is crimped into the key slot keeping it from coming loose. Do you need a special tool to "uncrimped" it or just grind this portion off and replace with a new nut? My breaker bar wouldn't budge the nut either way so is the thread clockwise or counter clockwise? I know its over 200 ft-lb, have to jump on it. Thanks in advance.
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Frank wrote:

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I ground a chisel down narrower so I could 'uncrimp' the bashed-in part of the nut. I wore rubber boots with steel shanks when jumping on the breaker bar. No joy. Ended up going over to a tire shop and took along my own socket. Boy took several seconds to loosen it with air tool. I gave him $5.
'Curly'
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Do NOT "grind" ANYTHING, especially a highly-stressed component like a driveshaft.
It's called a stake nut. Use a small screwdriver and hammer/bend the stake out until the nut will turn.
Use a new nut when replacing. Grind the end round on an old chisel for use in re-staking.

NO!
More like 134 lbs. Put "over 200" on it and you may snap the nose off the driveshaft!

Use a DeWalt DW-293 electric impact wrench. Rentable for about $30/day from industrial supply houses or buy for $200 at Home Depot.
The DeWalt will spin it off with no effort at all. Wonderful tool. I love mine.
You should have a shop manual before attempting repairs like this.
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It's a normal right-hand thread on both sides of the car, just like your wheel nuts.
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Thanks, got the stake nut out yesterday with an impact wrench. Just wondering why this nut needs to be crimped down into the keyway, doesn't seem like its going anywhere with 134 ft lb of torque and the wheel blocking it from coming off.
Anyway all I could find in terms of the Acura OEM factory manual is in cd disk form from ebay. Price seems too good for real, are those any good?

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Frank wrote:

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Your head would eventually come unscrewed if it was rotated for 400,000 miles.
The CD on eBay is an illegal copy. It's too good to be true.
'Curly'
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1) The wheel is not blocking the nut from coming off, the nut keeps the wheel from coming off. 2) There has not ever been a single spindle nut ever made (past maybe 1920) that was not held on with a cotter pin or stake. Time and vibration are much, much more powerful than you could /ever/ imagine.
Do not fail to stake that nut in place properly.

You can find those manuals online for free, if you know where to look.
Confirm with the (reputable) seller that is in fact the complete Honda/Helm manual in PDF format and you should be fine.
If you find Honda parts catalogs online, that's a different story. Those will have been stolen from a dealership somewhere.
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Eh, mistake.
The wheel does not block the nut from coming off. But if the nut does come off the driveshaft can vibrate loose and cause a hell of a mess. The wheel itself will stay on.
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somewhat... B-)
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Ha ha.
The wheel connects to the hub by the wheel nuts. The hub connects to the steering knuckle by the wheel bearing. The knuckle is held to the control arms by the balljoints.
If the CV joint nose come loose from the hub, one time you'll go around a corner and the CV joint will try to come out of the hub. That's where the possible mess comes in.
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Eh, not quite. Hyundai used torque nuts to secure the rear wheel hubs to the spindle on some early 90's models. One-time use, obviously. Whether one considers torque nuts to be "pre-staked" is debatable.

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OK, we have one exception.
But do you mean "prevailing torque" nuts?
If so, that's just a different way of achieving the same basic end. I wouldn't consider prevailing torque nuts to be as positive as a stake or cotter pin.
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Yes, I'd forgotten their formal name. Of course they're not reusable.

Agreed, but they probably cut down on assembly time by several seconds.

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Didn't find torque specifications on the front from the Chilton manual, but on the rear hub nut it has 206 lb-ft to which I presumed would be the same for the front hub nut. I know, I need to get a factory manual. Ok, I use 134 lbs than.

Good to know, I'll check out the DW-293. Didn't know electric has this kind of punch, my cheap one doesn't.

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wrote in message

That figure is certainly wrong (par for the course for Chilton/Haynes garbage).
I have a number of Integra factory manuals, and 134 ft lbs is specified for front and rear spindle nuts in all of them.

Better get a proper factory manual before you go monkeying around with stuff like this. Chilton/Haynes are not trustworthy.

The DeWalt makes 325 ft-lbs of torque. I've yet to have mine fail to loosen anything.
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