92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

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Absolutely! Don't delay, do it today!

Normal. They probably drove in an area where they spead sand on the roads for snow. You should see my engine compartment. You could build a sand castle in there.

That stuff needs to be reported to CarFax by insurance companies and the like. If it never gets reported, it never shows up.
The VIN is stamped on the firewall just below where the wipers bolt on, and on the plate visible in the lower left corner of the windshield, and on the door sticker.
Very later model cars sold in the US will also have white VIN stickers on every major body part. We do not have those stickers up here.

Not that I know of. For accident damage, your best weapon is your own eyes. It's *really* obvious once you know what to look for.

Find a road with gravel shoulders. Drive at maybe 25mph or so, and run two wheels off onto the shoulder. Now brake moderately hard, increasing force until you hear a loud growling noise. If you eventually get that growling, the ABS is working fine. When it's safe, move to the other side of the road and do the same thing with the wheels on that side.
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TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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1988 accura integra vibrates when stopped in gear; smoothes out when taken out of gear. tried replacing front engine mount - still has vibration. help!??!!
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Check the rear mount but some amount of vibration is inherent to the Integra with A/T. Also could be beneficial to adjust the valves to eliminate this possibility.
David Short Acura God

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thanks, david - i'll check this. i had been aware of slight vibration previously, but it's much worse now - rear mount would make sense
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if all mounts are good on the car it could be related to a torque converter problem which would explain why the vibration goes away in neutral and park since the torque has no load on it . Ken ASE certified Transmission tech

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Presently have a 91 Integra with 240K miles. Purchased it with 99K miles. No clutch issues. I went and test drove a 95 Integra GSR with 113K a guy is selling. Thinking about upgrading...:). He had to replace the clutch at 90K miles. Should a clutch not last longer than 90K miles? Was wondering if other Integra owners might chime in. When I test drove the car, I noticed about 1/2 pedal of play. The clutch in my 91 Integra may have 1 inch of play. Are these clutches easily adjusted?
I will say this 95 is alot tighter than my 91, also alot more power with the VTec vs my 91.
THanks!
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Of course. It can last over 245,000 miles with the right kind of treatment, and 245K is exactly where mine stands at this moment.
At this point there is question on mine as to what will go first: The clutch friction disc, its springs, or the transmission bearings. All are fine as of today (tranny bearings a bit noisy tho', and 2nd gear synchro *definitely* feeling its age).
Conversely, driving school cars go through a clutch at about 30K miles.
It's all about the driver, what kind of driving he does, and how he does it.

The '91 should be measured at the release arm. 5/32" play in the cable is good. Later cars had hydraulic linkages.
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TeGGeR

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91 Integra has a clutch cable which is adjustable. 95 Integra has hydraulic clutch linkage which is not adjustable.
David Short Acura God

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So should a hydraulic clutch with only 23K miles since installation have approx. 1/2 pedal distance of play (softness)??
Is there a big difference in pedal feel between a cable vs hydraulic clutch??
Acura God wrote:

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Yes there is a difference in feel. Besides the clutch failing the master cylinder can leak causing pedal to lose heighth. Do you mean 1/2 inch of free play or 1/2 the pedal travel? It is possible the clutch is worn depending on abuse etc. Check for a trail of fluid running down the inside of the car from the clutch linkage. If there then cylinder is leaking. Or maybe just needs a good bleeding to restore the height of the pedal.
David Short Acura God

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I mean 1/2 of the pedal travel, with no resistance, then you feel the pressure of the clutch. This clutch was replaced at 90K, car has 113K. It may just that it needs bleeding. It just feels alot different than the clutch in my 91 Integra. I may test drive the car again and look for leaks.....
Thanks!!
Acura God wrote:

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The local Acura dealer tells me that the average lifeof the cluch on the 91 Integra is 130,000 km but the has seen some with more than 250,000. If your driving is mostly high way it will last a longer time that if you do mostly city driving of course.
Vlad
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My concern is the life of the clutch of the 95 Integra that I am considering buying that had the clutch replaced at 90Kmiles. More concerned about the feel of the new clutch....has half a pedal length play before feeling clutch. I have the 91 with 239K miles on the clutch....it is solid.
Vlad wrote:

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Greetings,
1991 Integra GS, 145,000 miles, auto trans.
When shifting into reverse from park or drive the transmission grinds and will not engage reverse. This happens about 50% of the time.
Is there a shift solenoid that may be a problem or is this potentially a major repair. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, Jay
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Sounds like the reverse shift fork is bent. Requires disassembly to repair. Pretty common if the car has ever been stuck and then rocked from D to R to try to get unstuck.
David Short Acura God

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Hi all,
I am having major troubles with my 90 Acura Legend LS (has about 180,000 miles on it).
1) Transmission stuck in Park: I start the engine and then can't move the automatic transmission out of Park. I press the brakes down fully, press the silver "trigger" on the gear shift lever, try to press in the button on the left side of the gear shift lever, and still can't get it out of Park.
The steering wheel ISN'T locked, meaning once I start the engine, I can turn the steering wheel and then the tires from side to side. Just the transmission is stuck in park.
I CAN move the gear shift lever if (before I start the engine) I put the key in the transmission release slot that is immediately behind the gear shift lever, put it into neutral, tkae the key out of the slot and then start the engine while in neutral.
I can't say exactly when this started. I loaned my car to my dad for about 6 weeks, and just got it back from him. He said that the problem developed "sometime" in those 6 weeks. I hadn't had this problem before loaning it to my dad.
Before that, I had just taken it into a service shop to have an oil change / 15,000 mile tune up (replace / fill transmission and other fluids). So it couldn't be more than a couple hundred miles since the last time the Automatic Transmission Fluid was changed / filled.
2) Rear Brake Lights / Reverse Lights Not Working:
Also sometime while my dad had the car, the rear tail lights / brake lights / reverse lights stopped working. The front lights and turn signals seem to be okay.
I tried changing around the fuses and that didn't make a difference. I have also had some weired electrical stuff in the past (bizzare static from the radio, starter engine not cranking the first time you turn the key). Plus my dad said that he had to disconnect the battery over night otherwise it would drain and be hard to start in the morning (I think my dad might have disconnected the battery simply because he is almost 80 and likes to tinker with stuff, since I have noticed this at all in the last few days since he returned the car to me).
One other thing happened while my dad had the car. When he was parked at the supermarket, somebody hit the car just behind the front wheel well / driver side door. It must have been low speed, because it is a wide dent (about 16 inches) but very shallow. The front of the rubber trim on the drivers side is now loose. But I don't think that this could have caused any of the above problems, could it?
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. ANY HELP you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
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it sounds like the interlock solenoid has failed, or the neutral safety switch. If you have no brake lights, it could also be the brake light switch that is located above the brake pedal (higher up)....this also activates the interlock solenoid.
If you start the car in neutral, can you shift into any of the gears while the engine is on?

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Yes, if I start in Neutral, I can basically drive the car fine, and am able toshift into any of the other gears, including park (but once I shift it into park, then I am stuck there, since I won't be able to shift it out of park.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
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Check fuse in under hood fuse box that says Stop or horn. My guess is that it is blown.
David Short Acura God

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Thank You, David: I will check that on Sunday because that seems like the easiest, least expensive approach - and I am quite likely the laziest, cheapest guy you will ever meet on this forum!!!
One thing though; why the heck would Acura label it Stop or Horn?!?!? Does the Brake fuse affect, say, the CD Player???
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