92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

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I'd check the switch attached to your brake pedal -- not sure if this is the same on your car, but usually this controls the brake lights and the solenoid in the shift stick.

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Hey group...
This summer i'll be looking to buy a Gen II (90-93) Integra to use as a commuter car at college. I'll have about $2000-2500 to spend.
I'd like to know some more about these cars, such as how reliable they are, what to look for when buying, and what to expect for that kind of money. Any webpages would be helpful too!
Thanks!
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wrote:

Since it will most likely be a high mileage car, make sure the timing belt was replaced at around 90,000 miles. If you cannot be sure of this, be prepared to replace it (or verified that it is not worn). Depending on your tenacity and circumstances, you may be able to get an older model in that price range and they normally run for a long time before needing major service. If you can find one with service records, that would be best. I had an 89 that went almost 200k before needing more major work after the 90k (mostly brakes and tires). Regular oil changes are essential as well.
Good luck. Posted by the Rubber Dino.
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are,
Any
My wife drives a 93 that we bought new, now has 250,000 miles on it. It has *never* been back to the dealer, I have done all the work on it myself.
Personally, I don't know if we will ever get another one, all was fine until about 210,000 miles, then the igniter in the distributor became flakey. I had to spend $100 on the part, and my name ain't Rockefeller.
I have done normal maintainence on it, a few sets of brakes, a few sets of tires, I am about to do the timing belt for the third time. New radiator and hoses two years ago. Both front axles were replaced when the rubber boots dried out and cracked. On the positive side, the first set of brake pads I bought had a lifetime warranty, so all the replacements since then have been free. As well as another front axle which also has a lifetime warranty. Come to think of it, I replaced the exhaust system about 6 years ago with an Acura dealer exhaust, and last summer got a new muffler for free.
The car has it's original starter, alternator, clutch, and the strangest part is that the only light bulbs I have had to replace were the ones in the front side markers. Original headlight and taillight bulbs.
I'll point out again that this car has NEVER had a dealer scheduled service done to it. I have simply followed the maintainence schedule in the owners manual, changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles, and I keep my eyes and ears open.
-David
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No you didn't. You neglected it. And badly, too.
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I'm curious as to why you would say that. I have done all the required maintainence on schedule, changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles, and replaced parts that were worn before they broke. Car has a quarter of a million miles on it, runs like a top, burns no oil. Tracks straight as a arrow, the front end is tight, the car does not have a rattle in it. Gets waxed twice a year. Used genuine Acura parts for many of the repairs, such as the Acura ignition parts and the exhaust. Looks much better than it's 12 years and miles.
The only thing I have *not* done is hand over $450 to the dealer every 7500 miles.
-David
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Dear friends & Group,
It is rumoured that we are going to hit close to a $1.42 a Litre by the summer. Want gasoline prices to come down?
We need to take some intelligent, united action. Phillip Hollsworth, offered this good idea: This makes MUCH MORE SENSE than the don't buy gas on a certain day campaign that was going around last April or May! The oil companies just laughed at that because they knew we wouldn't continue to hurt ourselves by refusing to buy gas. It was more of an inconvenience to us than it was a problem for them. BUT, this is a plan that can really work. Please read it and join with us!
We all know that we're being controlled by the oil companies. Does everyone remember how they drove up the prices way past a dollar and got the gas prices to where they wanted them, claiming there was a shortage of oil. Well, there isn't any shortage now, and the oil is more abundant than it was 35 years ago when the price of a litre of gas was 29 cents!!!
Now that the oil companies and the OPEC nations have conditioned us to think that the cost of a litre of gas is CHEAP at $0.78-$0.85, we need to take aggressive action to teach them that BUYERS control the marketplace....not sellers. With the price of gasoline going up more each day, we consumers need to take action. The only way we are going to see the price of gas come down is if we hit someone in the pocketbook by not purchasing their gas! And we can do that WITHOUT hurting ourselves. How? Since we all rely on our cars, we cant just stop buying gas. But we CAN have an impact on gas prices if we all act together to force a price war.
Here's the idea: For the rest of this year, DON'T purchase ANY gasoline from the two biggest companies (which now are one), PETRO CANADA, SHELL. If they are not selling any gas, they will be inclined to reduce their prices. If they reduce their prices, the other companies will have to follow suit. But to have an impact, we need to reach literally millions of PETRO CANADA and SHELL buyers. Its really simp! le to do!! Now, don't whimp out on me at this point...keep reading and Ill explain how simple it is to reach millions of people!!
I am sending this note to at least thirty people. If each of you send it to at least ten more (30 x 10 = 300) ... and those 300 send it to at least ten more (300 x 10 = 3,000)...and so on, by the time the message reaches the sixth generation of people, we will have reached over THREE MILLION consumers! If those three million get excited and pass this on to ten friends each, then 30 million people will have been contacted! If it goes one level further, you guessed it..... THREE HUNDRED MILLION PEOPLE!!!
Again, all You have to do is send this to 10 people. That's all.
How long would all that take? If each of us sends this email out to ten more people within one day of receipt, all 300 MILLION people could conceivably be contacted within the next 8 days!!! Ill bet you I didn't think you and I had that much potential, did you! Acting together we can make a difference. If this makes sense to you, please pass this message on.
PLEASE HOLD OUT UNTIL THEY LOWER THEIR PRICES TO THE $0.64 OR LESS RANGE AND KEEP THEM DOWN. THIS CAN REALLY WORK!!!!!!!
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The concept of boycotting particular gasoline retailers or wholesalers has never worked and will never work, because the entire market is responding to the laws of supply and demand. With the burgeoning of auto markets in China and India, good luck with controlling demand.
If you want to pay less for gasoline, buy less gasoline. Trade for a more efficient car or drive less, or both. If you can't or won't do that, at least spare us the crackpot ideas.
Mike
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Even more than that: Oil companies regularly sell base stocks to each other. If one has a glut, they will sell it on the open market.
Boycott one brand, and the others will pick up the slack and experience an INCREASE in demand.
If anything, a boycott of the sort promulgated by the OP could result in HIGHER prices as the non-boycotted suppliers bid up spot prices in an attempt to fill the sudden change in demand caused by the boycott.

And crackpot it is. Also crackpot is the notion that they are sudddenly making a killing on gas and are "controlling" prices.
It's true that, for instance, Exxon has increased their net by some 13% over the last complete fiscal year (from an 8% margin to 9%), but they don't "control prices".
An interesting link, sort of relevant here: http://www.aip.com.au/pricing/oecd.htm
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The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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This is just Spam. See: http://www.snopes.com/politics/business/saudigas.asp
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Anyone have any idea why my 99 tl's factory radio will not play 80 minute cdr's? I put the disk in and I can hear it trying to read the disks, but it ejects after about 20 seconds. 72 minute disks play fine. Is their a setting on my software that I need to select (I'm using Ahead's Nero 5) thanks Mike Allen
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bluez wrote:

Those cd players are bad with burned CD's in general. I find that some batches of blank CD's work much better than others. I have had batches of 80minute cd's that are more or less unusable in the cd player of my TL. I found that personally the novelty blank disks that are completely black work the best in this player. If you see them, pick up a small package and test it out. I have been using the memorex black disks and they work the best for me. http://www.memorex.com/html/products_detail.php?section=1&SID=1&PID#&FID=3&opento=2 http://www.memorex.com/html/products_detail.php?section=1&SID=1&PID%&FID=3&opento=2
Also I notice that the problem of reading CD-R's is worst near the end of the disk. Especially those disks that have tons of small tracks near the end with a hidden track as something like track 50-99. On top of this when it's cold and you first start the car is when the player performs the worst with these CD-r's. My torture test is a sub zero day with a burned disk with many tracks.
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When try to start I get click click click....... Broke down in highway.....boosted it and it started.......then half way home bucking like crazy then shut down and now will not start with boost.....click click click
Suggestions? My guess starting motor
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On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 21:22:18 -0230, "Devils Advocate"

Possibly. Also bad battery, bad battery connection, bad cables, bad starter solenoid.
Try this. Turn headlights on. Try the starter. If the headlights do not dim, the starter isn't drawing current or the starter solenoid isn't letting current through. If the headlights dim, the starter is drawing current but bad cables or connections aren't allowing enough current to flow.
See also http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq /
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Its nothing to do w/ the battery as I installed a new one.
wrote:

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Igniter, maybe.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling
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I'm thinking it's a more basic electrical problem. You have two symptoms - failure to crank, and dying when it had been running. My hunch is a connection in the battery wiring or similar.
I am especially puzzled by the sequence. It was running, then died but started with a boost (suggesting the battery wasn't charging even though you were on the highway)... then died with symptoms that are consistent with the voltage fading away, but wouldn't crank even with a boost.
If you reach the point of needing to try *something* I'd recommend replacing the battery (or swapping with another car) and replacing the battery cables - or at least giving them a good inspection and cleaning.
Mike
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I concur with Michael, I've had relatively new cars with the same click-clicking and there was nothing wrong except for the battery. Time to get a new battery...

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New battery installed, and connection to battery are clean as whistle. Now it could be wiring possibly or perhaps starter.

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Although the starter wouldn't explain the dying.
Mike
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