92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

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Ok I didn't get much help with the Integra question...that's ok
My next question is about a Legend coupe, 5 speed, whats your opinion on this car? Could an older example be used daily if it was cared for? Are they
pretty nice cars?
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they're great cars! I'm on my second Legend coupe.
as with most cars that have relatively high mileage, one should have funds for the parts needed for extending its life.(e.g.: water pump, cv joints, timing belt, radiator, thermostat, power steering pump & hose, a/c, etc.) depending how long you intend on driving it.
My first was the first generation(lots of compliments, sold), and my current one is of the second gen. Which generation were you pertaining?
I got this(and first) Legend bcs I always liked the design. If I wanted just a dependable daily driver with inexpensive parts, I'd get an Accord or some Toyota.
need more info, surf over here...
legend.org
for more newbie and faq,go here... acuraworld.com acura-legend.com
hth, J

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Thanks for the response, James. I would be looking for a first gen Legend, and i'm also considering a Gen II Integra. I'm going back to college in the fall to finish my degree, and wanted a cheap commuter car so I could just tuck my sports car away in the garage.
If your still around, here's a few quick questions for you. I'd be looking for a coupe with a 5-speed and nothing less. I've seen a few like this for sale, but most of them have 175,000 miles plus. Should I be scared of something with high miles like this, or are they pretty robust? That's about all I need to know. I'm looking forward to my first test drive. I owned a 88 Toyota Supra for two years, and I expect it to drive a lot like that car did: powerful, smooth and comfortable.
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With 175k miles on it; you would definitely be prepared for the cv joints, axle shafts, pump, timing belt, powersteering pump & hose, rad, ignitor, just to name a few. I would recommend a compresion check to see if there's still life in the block. At 175k miles ts not bad, my first Gen1 had 180k when I sold it....I just got tired of the power windows getting slow, and one piston ring was weak(little smoke). I would say it still had 40k miles left before some major replacements.(I had a new reman tranny in there at 120k miles...so it was good for another 100k miles)
So I would be concerned for compression and some of the other stuff. For a cheap commuter car...I'd recommend something else....you can probably save more money.
What sports car are you mothballing?

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It's an 86 Porsche 944. I've put too much into it just to let it go, and besides I really like it. I figured after the 944, doing maintence on a Legend would seem dirt cheap ;) Just for the sake of comparing, I paid $1500 for the major front end service (water pump/t-belt plus a few other small things). I'd imagine with a Legend you could get that done for under $500, depending who's doing the world.
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You are correct on one thing - it depends on who is doing the work.
I have a '93 Legend Sedan (auto also so this is a little different from what you are looking at), but I love it. I only wish I could use mid-grade in it instead of premium gas. I've tried mid twice but it was too damn noisy to live with.
Just crossed 112K miles recently and no major problems. Replaced the boots, timing belts etc.
Timing belt, water pump etc (the whole standard repair deal) came to a little over $700 at a local acura dealer. If I had the time to take it across town I could have had it done for just a little over $500 at a shop that specializes in Hondas and Acuras, but it not a dealer.
wrote:

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wrote:

Very comfortable, rides nice and handles great for a car this size. Best car I've ever owned.
The older Legends are now 18 years old. The newest ones are 10 years old. They will be more reliable than most cars their age, but they are still getting pretty long in the tooth.
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Today my driver's side power window stopped working. The passenger side power window is intermittent.......I guess depending on how hard I slam my driver's side door. All fuses are good. I can hit on the switch and the passenger side window may work, but the driver's side never does. I suspect the master power window switch.....the one on the drivers side door. It has the MAIN on/off and the two window switches.
Anyone ever had to replace on of these? Where did you get it? I called the dealer and was quoted a price of $160.00....WOW!! Thought I would try an online parts site first, then maybe a salvage yard. Any recommendations???
THANKS!!
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Maybe this will help...
In the Nissan 300ZX I used to have the driver's switch for the passenger door became intermittent, so neither switch would close the passenger window (either one would open it, though.) I took the switch out and found the problem was with the way the switch was made. The contacts and the connector were joined by a circuit board - the contacts were swaged onto the board by spreading the forked ends of the contact pieces where they protruded through the board. Where the ends were swaged the connections were intermittent. I soldered all the ends to the board and the switch never gave me any more trouble.
Mike
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I am pretty sure it is the switch....since the window is intermittent and beating on the armrest makes it work sometimes. I will remove the switch and resolder joints (if accessible) as you suggest.
Thanks!
BC
Michael Pardee wrote:

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It's either the switch or the motor/regulator. I had my rear driver window done (98 RL) went to a auto glass place, they did it for $300 dealer wanted over $400. That was for motor/regulator one unit. HTH
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"B.Creech" < snipped-for-privacy@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
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make that rear driver side window.
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Ed Smith
"blk knight" < snipped-for-privacy@nospamearthlink.net> wrote in message
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I got lucky!! I took the door panel loose and found my problem. The cable had come unplugged from the switch. I plugged the cable back onto the switch and put a tie wrap on it. Windows work fine now.
Thanks for the responses.....
B.Creech wrote:

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Sometimes it is better to be lucky than to be good.
Mike
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I have a vague recollection from a couple of years ago that Acura changed the composition of the brake pads for the 2000 TL. At the time, they also said the rotors should be replaced when the pads were changed to the new composition ones.
I am just now coming up on needing to replace my front pads. I have not experienced warping of the original rotors (though I do have to occasionally make a hard stop to scrape the crud off of them - symptom is similar to warpage but goes away after a hard stop). I would like to leave well enough alone under the philosophy of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
So, I have two questions to the group:
1. Has anyone used the new pads without changing the rotors also?
2. If so, how did it work out?
Pls reply to the group.
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:? Me and my dad replaced the timing belt lined everything up just like the book said to and it still will not start I have just returned from overseas after being there for a year and my wife said the car just stopped running and wound not start shortly after I left it has been sitting for over a year. I am getting spark and fuel rechecked the timming marks they are also good but still will not start. open to any and all suggestions?
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Did the timing belt break?

http://www.autoforumz.com/Acura-91-integra-replaced-timing-belt-start-ftopict112154.html
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On 14 Apr 2005 16:02:52 -0400, LNHAVARD

If the car has been sitting for a year the fuel may be bad. Let your nose tell you. Does it smell like gas or does it have a rank, varnishy smell? You may need to drain the fuel rail, fuel filter and lines as well as the tank and get some fresh gas in there.
See also: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling
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"John Ings" wrote: > On 14 Apr 2005 16:02:52 -0400, LNHAVARD
> > >:? Me and my dad replaced the timing belt lined everything up > just > >like the book said to and it still will not start I have just > returned > >from overseas after being there for a year and my wife said > the car > >just stopped running and wound not start shortly after I left > it has > >been sitting for over a year. I am getting spark and fuel > rechecked > >the timming marks they are also good but still will not > start. open to > >any and all suggestions? > > If the car has been sitting for a year the fuel may be bad. > Let your > nose tell you. Does it smell like gas or does it have a rank, > varnishy > smell? You may need to drain the fuel rail, fuel filter and > lines as > well as the tank and get some fresh gas in there. > > See also: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling
The belt did not break but with over 120k miles on it the car was not running good. I have put more fuel in the car and also put some carb cleaner in the gas but still no fire. Fuel did smell varnisy.Pulled injectors and cleaned them with carb cleaner got sa good spray patteren out of them. replaced spark plugs and rechecked the timing. Timing was good but after changing spark plugs I saw that I did not put the wires in the correct firing order :oops:. Fixed that problem and it still will not start it sounds like its wants too but will not catch. :(
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On 15 Apr 2005 10:38:33 -0400, LNHAVARD

Purge the fuel lines and fuel filter by running 12 volts from the battery back to the fuel pump and removing the plug at the end of the fuel rail. The ECU will not let the fuel pump run for more than a few seconds if the engine isn't running, you have to bypass the main relay. See the website for how that works. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/MainRelay.HTM
Also if the gas tank was nearly empty for a year, there may be rust from condensation in the tank. This can plug up the little plastic filter at the inlet side of the fuel pump and cause low fuel flow problems. That buck and sneeze 'I'm trying to start' symptom is typical. If possible find a fuel pressure guage and make sure you have clean gas at full pressure in the rail. Just having gas in there won't do it. It has to be up to pressure.
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