92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

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Well I just picked up the TL after looking at a bunch of cars including those other two. As a complete package, the TL is the best.


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Hey all,
I have a problem with my engine, i'm getting gas into my oil, so i did a leakdown test and my second cylinder is at 67%. i've got to do another test with them so they can determine what it is. The first acura service rep i had said "you're going to probably need a new engine", and the second one said "you should probably just buy a new car, they have great deals on the new 1.7 EL's". hunh? they still don't know what the problem is, and they're upselling me... i'm pissed. anyway. how big of a deal is this? if i change my oil, say, every 3500 miles and keep driving, should my car be fine? since the first diagnostic, i've driven 6000 miles and all is still fine. the only reason i'm concerned is that if i'm about to hit the scheduled timing belt replacment. If I do need a new engine, the timing belt money would be wasted. i'm just tortured over making the right move here. anyone have any experience with this sort of thing??
thanks
f
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rings. Whichever it is it will get worse as the hot combustion gasses torch a channel through the valve seat or the cylinder wall.
Their advice is sound. You can buy a decent used engine at a reasonable price. Others will have links, I'm sure.
Mike
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ah, so my "keep riding it until it quits" theory could happen sooner than later. good to know. I've been told I can get an engine for $500 Cdn. anybody have a great online autoparts dealer?
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"SPIDERMAN" wrote:
> message > > &nbsp;>> Hey all, > &nbsp;>> > &nbsp;>> I have a problem with my engine, i'm > getting gas into my oil, > &nbsp;>> so i did a leakdown test and my second cylinder is at > 67%. i've got to > &nbsp;>> do another test with them so they can determine what > it is. The first > &nbsp;>> acura service rep i had said "you're going to > probably need a new > &nbsp;>> engine", and the second one said "you should probably > just buy a new car, > &nbsp;>> they have great deals on the new 1.7 EL's". hunh? > they still don't know > &nbsp;>> what the problem is, and they're upselling me... i'm > pissed. anyway. > &nbsp;>> how big of a deal is this? if i change my oil, say, > every 3500 miles and > &nbsp;>> keep driving, should my car be fine? since the first > diagnostic, i've > &nbsp;>> driven 6000 miles and all is still fine. the only > reason i'm concerned > &nbsp;>> is that if i'm about to hit the scheduled timing belt > replacment. If I > &nbsp;>> do need a new engine, the timing belt money would be > wasted. i'm just > &nbsp;>> tortured over making the right move here. anyone > have any experience > &nbsp;>> with this sort of thing?? > &nbsp;>> > &nbsp;>> thanks > &nbsp;>> > &nbsp;>> f > &nbsp;>> > > Something is seriously wrong with that cylinder - valves or > broken piston > > rings. Whichever it is it will get worse as the hot > combustion gasses > > torch a channel through the valve seat or the cylinder wall. > > > > Their advice is sound. You can buy a decent used engine at a > reasonable > > price. Others will have links, I'm sure. > > > > Mike > > > > ah, so my "keep riding it until it quits" theory could happen > sooner than > later. good to know. I've been told I can get an engine for > $500 Cdn. > anybody have a great online autoparts dealer?
dont do that i have integra civic and preludes... my prelude did that and i drove it untill it blew... is the engine knocking if yes thats bad that the pistion hitting the valve check your oil and oil light. if you dont keep on feeding it oil it will blow. if the engine blows it might crack the block and then you will have yo buy a new engine this way you can rebuild your exhisting engine this will save you 1000 also double check your oil pan plug and be sure its not leaking this is what may have caused the problem in the fist place. watch the temp gauage if it ever goes past half stop your engine (turn the car off) used engine are cheep and almost any honda engine will fit you can get a used b18b/a 145hp 90-93/04-01 integra for $300 for example good luck and be smart... sell the car befor it pops if you want to a snake and/or spend no money.
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Hi all -
I have an 02 TL-S, purchased at ~20K miles, now at 64K miles. When I bought the car (CarMax), the rotors needed to be resurfaced - done by CarMax. I had them turned again at ~30K miles by the dealer, then all 4 rotors and pads replaced by Acura for free under a Service Bulletin at ~40K miles (the bulletin was for the pads - and included new pads and rotors - WOOT!). I had these turned again at ~50K, right before the warranty expired. At 60K, they needed it again, so I took it back to the dealer hoping they would resolve this once and for all as this is an "ongoing" problem - no dice. The dealer was sympathetic, and forwarded the request to Corporate Acura who told me over the phone after a 3 day wait that they will not warranty rotors outside of the 50K coverage, period. So I waited a few months, and just had them turned again with the purchase of new tires at 64K. That is FIVE times in ~44K miles (20, 30, 40, 50, 64).
I really don't have a problem with the 50K issue as I know this is considered a "wear item", and the pads are wearing evenly - so I don't believe this is an issue with the calipers (but looking for guidance). Is there anything outside of my driving style that could explain the problems I am having with these? This was my last "turn" on this set before they need to be replaced again (in 10K miles), and I will likely go with slotted or drilled for my next set to hopefully alleviate the problem. I'm 35 years old and drive around most of the time with a 2 year old in the back seat - I don't think I would really consider myself an aggressive driver. My previous cars were a '91 Integra, '87 200SX, '88 Legend, and '99 Honda Accord......I never had this type of problem with any of these. I also know the TLS has oversized rotors compared to the regular TL anyway, and I would expect a longer life from these things - everyone I talk to (including the dealer) says this is not normal, but say everything else looks OK and the brakes seem to stop just fine - no pulling, etc., when braking.
Any ideas ?
Thanks!
- Mike
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Why?

Again... why?
then all 4 rotors and

What for? Chances are they didn't need it.

Again why? Who's telling you all this 'resurfacing' needs to be done?

Of course not! Their bottom line needs you!

What for? What's the need for all this rotor turning business? Never turn Honda rotors, it's not worth it. If they're bad enough to really need turning ( grooved more than 1/8 inch) replace them.

And I'll bet not one of them was necessary!

Yeah, somebody is telling you your rotors need turning when they don't.

Do you race? Do you drive down steep mountain grades? If not you don't need slotted rotors. You need an honest mechanic, and I don't mean a dealer.

Yeah. Next time you're told your rotors need turning, spit in the guys eye and go look for an honest mechanic.
See also: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#brakes
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Um, ouch. :-)
I should note that all of these save the last one were done for free....so no real skin off my back until recently.
Thanks for the reply. As for WHY I have them done - vibration when braking is the symptom...begins at higher speeds, and as time goes on becomes more noticeable even at lower speeds. I have *Zero* problems outside of braking. Turning / replacing the rotors has resolved the problem every time so far.....but just for a little while. I realize replacement may be better than turning, but if replacements only last the same mileage - why bother with the expense? My most recent visit for tires included brake inspection, including a nice long discussion with the mechanic who could find nothing wrong outside of the rotors, and measurements on the rotors confirmed that they did indeed need to be turned (Sorry I don't remember the numbers). The dealer supposedly checked each time as well, and came to the same conclusion.
I am trying to determine WHY I should spit in their faces - can you give me a reason why I might be experiencing these symptoms, since I have even brake pad wear, and why turning the rotors would resolve it temporarily ? I should note I have heard in the past that improperly torqued lug nuts can cause issues with rotors - I always loosen and re-torque my wheels after any service visit to 80 ft/lbs. I also have not noted any rust, etc., when mounting the tire that I would expect to cause a vibration. I also don't race, and I live in the flatlands. :-)
Thanks!
- Mike
wrote:

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By then,the warping may have already started.

Does this always happen on the same wheel? (maybe a wheel has unlevel surfaces on the inside that mates to the rotor,warping it) Maybe the problem moves as you rotate wheels? Do you tighten the lugs in a cross-pattern,or just go around,one after another? Do you snug them down first,then torque,or just tighten to torque spec? Perhaps one stud has thread damage,throwing off the torque reading?
I believe that rotors are only able to be turned once,then they get too thin to be turned again.(legally) Some here are of the opinion that turning the rotors even once makes them prone to warping. Warping would cause vibration when braking.
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Jim Yanik
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Count me in that group who suspects rotors that have been turned are more susceptible to warping. I don't have any evidence but I did stop having rotors turned as soon as I could afford to. My belief is that the reason for minimum thickness being less than new thickness is to allow for wear. Also, I think rotors that have been turned because they were warped will re-warp because of stresses formed during braking when they were warped - it seems likely any rotor that doesn't brake evenly will also heat unevenly during braking.
Somebody recently directed me to a website that had a section on brake rotor warping. It made a lot of sense, pointing out that what we speak of as "warping" isn't lateral runout, where the rotor is bent, but is variation in the thickness of the rotor as it rotates. Just like the acceleration bumps on a dirt road, the thickened areas get worse as time goes on.
Disclaimer - I am not an expert on this, these are my own beliefs.
Mike
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I had all my 4 rotors turned and had no problems, but I was smart and used OEM pads, not aftermarket crap. But it was done on the car using a lathe, not off the car. Those one take way too much out of rotor to be useable.


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OEM pads and BAP rotors. The rotors are more seriously worn than the pads now! The original rotors made it nearly 200K miles with less wear than that.
Mike
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"hlshadow" wrote: > Hi all - > > I have an 02 TL-S, purchased at ~20K miles, now at 64K miles. > When I bought > the car (CarMax), the rotors needed to be resurfaced - done by > CarMax. I > had them turned again at ~30K miles by the dealer, then all 4 > rotors and > pads replaced by Acura for free under a Service Bulletin at > ~40K miles (the > bulletin was for the pads - and included new pads and rotors - > WOOT!). I > had these turned again at ~50K, right before the warranty > expired. At 60K, > they needed it again, so I took it back to the dealer hoping > they would > resolve this once and for all as this is an "ongoing" problem > - no dice. > The dealer was sympathetic, and forwarded the request to > Corporate Acura who > told me over the phone after a 3 day wait that they will not > warranty rotors > outside of the 50K coverage, period. So I waited a few > months, and just had > them turned again with the purchase of new tires at 64K. That > is FIVE times > in ~44K miles (20, 30, 40, 50, 64). > > I really don't have a problem with the 50K issue as I know > this is > considered a "wear item", and the pads are wearing evenly - so > I don't > believe this is an issue with the calipers (but looking for > guidance). Is > there anything outside of my driving style that could explain > the problems I > am having with these? This was my last "turn" on this set > before they need > to be replaced again (in 10K miles), and I will likely go with > slotted or > drilled for my next set to hopefully alleviate the problem. > I'm 35 years > old and drive around most of the time with a 2 year old in the > back seat - I > don't think I would really consider myself an aggressive > driver. My > previous cars were a '91 Integra, '87 200SX, '88 Legend, and > '99 Honda > Accord......I never had this type of problem with any of > these. I also > know the TLS has oversized rotors compared to the regular TL > anyway, and I > would expect a longer life from these things - everyone I talk > to (including > the dealer) says this is not normal, but say everything else > looks OK and > the brakes seem to stop just fine - no pulling, etc., when > braking. > > Any ideas ? > > Thanks! > > - Mike
If the dealer does not install a generous amount of brake grease on the slider pins, the pads could be staying clenched against the rotor causing abnormal wear rates.
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i?m interested in one of these years, if youve owned one can you tell me any problems you had with the car. much appreciated
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On 1 Mar 2005 17:17:35 -0500, JohnnieWalker <UseLinkToEmail@New & Used Cars Forums - AutoForumz.com> wrote:

I love my '97 Integra. The main thing is mileage. If it has over 90k make sure the timing belt has been replaced, or count on doing it (cost is pretty steep, around a grand) after purchase. Posted by the Rubber Dino.
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& Used

I had mine replaced for around $400, and that included the water pump, too.
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Hello all, I have a 1987 Acura Integra and I have what appears on the surface to be an easy problem to solve, but so far it has been a nightmare! I am trying to replace my front headlight. Simple right?? Well, I am having a heck of a time. Does anyone have the process, prefereably with diagrams on how to do this? Or, somewhere online I can find a free service manual that can show me how? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, WHC
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I did this on my 89 LS once,so I'll try to remember,it's been about 3 years ago.First pop the lights up using the switch inside.You might want to open the hood for better access as well.Theres a plastic bezel that goes around the headlight itself,its held in by a couple phillips screws I believe,you'll need to remove them and the black plastic bezel.Then you can remove the metal cover of the headlight,the actual part that you see when they're closed...if you're car is white,it will be white,and so on.You may need to lower the lights to do this at some point,I really dont remember but once its off,its pretty easy from there.Should be a plug on the back of the light that has to come off and 4 small phillips screws that hold the light in its cavity.Hope this helps...good luck with your Integra,the 89 I had was the best car I've ever owned. Glenn

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I am trying to find info on adjustment of Cluch pedal travel. I have an intermittent chatter in my clutch, will such an adjustment help?
TIA
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intermittent chatter from (believe it or not) funky engine operation! My '70 Volvo would do that when it was time to work on the points (like every couple months - the distributor was notorious), and my '84 Nissan 300ZX would do that when the injectors were dirty! A tank of Texaco gas or a bottle of fuel injector cleaner had it clutching smoothly within 100 miles. It may not be the answer to your problem, but it is cheap and easy to try while you search for other potential problems.
I think you have a hydraulic clutch - if so, bleeding is also cheap and easy. Another fairly long shot, but....
Mike
Mike
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