92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

Thanks for the response.

I am 40, married, no kids live in US. I will call my insurance agent to get a quote. I really cannot compare from the insurance thread on clubrsx, since most posts are from kids........

I was looking at a Type S, but since the tranny is a lemon, will go with the base or wait for next model.

Thanks aga>Depends on your age, where you live, etc... I am 37, 3 kids, no

Reply to
B.Creech
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I have been toying with the idea of trading off my 01 Prelude for the S model. But, since they are still having problems with the transmission, I think I'll give that idea up for now. Just have not had any problems with the Prelude.

Reply to
TWW

"p3dro" wrote: > WOW! the replies are overwhelming, thank you, thank you, thank > you all, for all the responses, I just printed the whole > thread out, and I'm going to keeo some tools in my car for > when it acts up, I'll check on these. > > Again thank you sooooooooo much. > > And BTW i got the response from the leak i got on the front > passenger side, but i still have a major pool with fish and > all in the rear where the spare tire goes, and even the rear > seat (passenger side) is getting wet underneath, any ideas on > what it might be, and if so, what solutions; i was going to > replace the weather strips all around, but i can't find them, > and ACURA no longer carries them, and i don't know what to do. > > Thanks again

Check the tail light seals. My son?s car had this problem in a heavy rain. We found that water running off the rear hatch was draining down on the tail lights. The seal between the tail lights and the hull was bad and allowing water to get into the trunk area.

Reply to
hasheriva

My son?s Integra has been burning out headlights for the past several months. I?m trying to do some basic troubleshooting before I give up and take it to the dealer. Has anybody had this problem before? Any ideas on what might be the cause? One will burn out. Then a few weeks to a couple months later the other or same will burn out. The car has HID lights.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

HasherIva

Reply to
hasheriva

changed dist/cap and rotor plus wires and plugs still does the same thing. what is next?

Reply to
deaddog5

Hi,

I just bought a new 2005 TSX. The xenon headlights of my car has a very sharp cut off line. That is, when you drive in the dark, you will see only the area where the Xenon headlights directly spotting at, but you can see nothing beyond that angle. I feel unsafe to drive this car in dark since I cannot see anything beyond about 10 degree above horizontal line. Is this a common issue on TSX? I just wonder if I should ask the dealer to fix this for me.

If anyone can give me some idea on this, I would be really appreciated.

Thank you!

Cathy

Reply to
Cathy Hui

hasheriva wrote in news:1_574164 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

Please repost this question in rec.autos.tech

There is at least one poster there who specializes in this issue. Be sure to include the acronym "HID" in your subject line.

Reply to
TeGGeR®

"Cathy Hui" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

It's so common that every single HID headlamp ever made by any manufacturer has this "problem".

The dealer can't do anything. That's how the cars come to them (unless you specifically ordered HID as an option)

That beam cutoff is to prevent you from blinding oncoming traffic with your glare. HID headlights are amazingly effective, and are not compatible with the old "fuzzy blob" beam patterns that the US government used to force on automakers.

Europe has had such beam patterns for several decades.

You may want to ask the dealer to confirm that your lights are aimed correctly, which is all they will be able to do for you.

Reply to
TeGGeR®

hasheriva wrote in news:1_574164 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

HIDs would be an aftermarket install,they are not OEM gear.

Of course,if you are just talking about new headlight bulbs,the person who put them in probably did not use gloves or other means to keep skin oils off the glass bulb,which shortens their life considerably.

You cannot handle the glass bulbs,you must use a glove or cloth between your hands and the glass.Or you have to clean the glass completely with alcohol to remove the oils or grease before re-installing the socket into the headlight body.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

Since the car didn't come with HIDs, is he using one of those aftermarket kits that can be found on the Internet or is he using HID lookalike bulbs that are very bright, but don't last for long? HID bulbs are expensive, but they should last 2,500 to 3,000 hours.

"hasheriva" a écrit dans le message de news:

1_574164 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com...

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Reply to
Ghislain

I've used Michelins for around 40 (forty) years and have never had a reason to change. My Vigor has been in them since the original Bridgestone's wore out at 17K. Now on the 3rd set, at 155K. Only had one (minor) alignment at 100K. Your problem might be your type of roads or driving style. As likely, might be from low tire pressure or the struts/suspension being beaten to death by the road conditions, so another brand, more than likely, won't help..

Reply to
Bob Johnstone

I think you'll find that the headlights on the TSX give you just as good if not better coverage than the old style headlights you're used to. The sharp cut off line takes some getting used to and until you do, you get the psychological impression that you're not seeing as much. Find a friend that has a car with standard headlights and go with her to an empty, dark parking lot some night. Park next to each other and compare headlights. I think you'll be surprised at the results.

BTW, you bought a great car, I know you'll enjoy it.

Reply to
Martin van Nostrand

"hasheriva" wrote: > Check the tail light seals. My son's car had this problem in > a heavy rain. We found that water running off the rear hatch > was draining down on the tail lights. The seal between the > tail lights and the hull was bad and allowing water to get > into the trunk area.

Any idea where i can get parts for my integra, anywhere besides the dealer, my local dealer doesn?t carry anything for what i can tell.. Thanks guys

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Reply to
p3dro

Any suggestions?

My son just replaced his ignition wires on his 1991 Integra with new blue ones, they look like high performance type. He was driving around for a several weeks with no problems. This morning it would not start, NO spark at the plugs.

- Checked the voltage to the primary winding ok!

- Checked the resistance of primary and secondary windings with spec. OK!

- Checked the spark directly at the out from the secondary winding to ground, seems a little weak but it was sparking on and off.

Any one know what the voltage should be? (15 KV to 20 KV )

- Checked the distributor cap springs and continuity ok!

The old rotor had a fuse link incorporated in the rotor which was blown out. Replace the rotor still no spark at spark plugs. The new rotor has done as no fuse link.

I think the coil could be weak possibly ready to go?

Do you think by changing the old ignition wires to new wires could have caused a problem? Maybe he should have just purchased standard OEM wires?

Please Help!

Thanks

Reply to
J Poy

"J Poy" wrote in news:I7Bde.4695$ snipped-for-privacy@news20.bellglobal.com:

You mean they look like aftermarket.

You've given me an idea: I think I'll start selling discount toilet paper for twice the price. I'll just call it "high-performance" toilet paper. It'll be the same damn asswipe, but somebody out there is going to pay for "high-performance".

If you pull one of the plug wires at the plug, stick a screwdriver into the boot to carry current, then hold the screwdriver shaft 1/8" from a ground (NOT the battery!!), do you get a nice big, fat, loud spark?

Try each wire in turn.

Since you repoort a weak spark when you bypass the cap and rotor, the cap and rotor are suspect. They're aftermarket too, right?

It is also possible that your son has now damaged his coil, and it is finding at least a partial ground through the coil body. This can occur because of poor-quality (aftermarket) or worn secondary components, or from cranking the engine with the wires or distributor cap removed.

With aftermarket, you're really taking a chance.

Your problem may be a partially-damaged coil or crappy secondary components. If you can swing it, replace wires, cap and rotor with new OEM, about $100. If that doesn't help, replace the coil.

Reply to
TeGGeR®

Having successfully decoded the PGM-FI Main Relay's DNA, I'm now on the warpath for the Igniter, in preparation for another update to the FAQ.

Some basics:

1) The igniter simply replaces the old make/break points in a Kettering system. 2) The role of the vacuum/centrifugal advance, and the distributor cam is now performed by the ECU. The ECU performs this function by adding or cutting ground as necessary, just like it does with the Main Relay. 3) The igniter has an activation power feed from the ignition switch. The coil's power goes through the igniter as well, but can't go anywhere until the igniter is powered by the ignition switch and grounded by the ECU. 4) When the ECU grounds the white wire, the flip-flop in the igniter closes, allowing the coil's current to travel through the same white wire to ground in the ECU, thus charging the coil.

Now: When the igniter gets broken, what exactly goes wrong with it? Does the transistor fuse in the open position? Does some other component go bad and prevent current from flowing? Is it cracked solder again? Anybody know?

Reply to
TeGGeR®

Extrapolating from my experience with power transistors...

Junction type semiconductor devices invariably short when they fail. The junction develops a hot spot - a tiny area that is hotter than the surrounding junction and therefore has more current flow. That produces a nearly instantaneous runaway condition, melting the junction in that area. If the junction is back-biased, like the collector junction of a transistor is, the voltage ensures the PN junction is homogenized.

(Still assuming the power switcher is a bipolar transistor) The collector in power transistors is usually soldered to a heat sink. The base and emitter leads are fine wires. When the collector shorts, the fault current flows through emitter lead and often burns it out, leaving the device open circuited. Some power transistors have heavy emitter leads and will just stay shorted, even with fairly high currents, but it would not be good to have the ignitor fail in a shorted condition.

If the switcher is actually a power CMOS device, I don't know enough about them to say.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

I think the coil is shorted internally. It won't put up with anything that prevents it from having a load, things like bad plug wires.

Have him pull the coil out and look at it in the sunlight or other good light. If he sees any dim starburst patterns about the diameter of a button or a dime on the surface, it is bad news for the coil (even though it measures okay). The coil can also fail without those starbursts, but it is an easy check. My son also learned the hard way when he used the starter to bump the engine of his Integra around when the distributor cap was off.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

  1. One could view the old contact points as a combined crank angle sensor and coil actuator. Some early electronic ignition systems actually still had contact points (and vacuum and centrifugal advance), but the points were only used as an input to the electronics. The actual switching of the coil was done by the electronics. The electronic box would simply ground the coil whenever the contact points were closed, and open-circuit the coil whenever the contact points were open. The only benefit of this vs. the non-electronic system was that the points saw very little current and virtually no inductive loading, thus there was no arching and the points would not wear.

The ignitor (ICM) does exactly what the electronic box did in the example above, it simply grounds and open-circuits the coil at the falling and rising edge of the signal from the ECU. Theoretically the ignitor could be mounted inside the ECU, but then you would have a very nasty signal (high voltage spikes etc.) running all over the place rather than being nicely tucked inside the distributor.

  1. Yes. There are 3 sensors in the distributor, the CYP, or Cylinder Position Sensor, gives one pulse for every complete rotation of the distributor rotor (presumably around TDC prior to the power stroke on cylinder #1, but that is a guess on my part), the TDC, or Top Dead Center, sensor gives 4 pulses for each complete rotation of the distributor rotor, one pulse each time a piston is at TDC at the beginning of its power strike. Finally there is the CKP, or crank position sensor. This sensor gives a large number of pulses for each rotation of the distributor rotor.

The CKP gives the crank angle with very fine resolution, but it is a relative measurement only. I.e. by looking at the CKP output you can tell that the engine now has rotated e.g. 76.3° since you started counting, but you can not tell what specific position it is at. Then what you (well, the E-C-you, that is) do is you reset your counter every time you see the TDC signal. Now you know the exact number of degrees you are past the latest power-stroke TDC, and since you know the rotor goes 90° between each power-stroke TDC, you can easily do the subtraction and find out how many degrees /before/ TDC you are. The ECU calculates the desired ignition timing based on throttle position, RPM, manifold pressure etc., and then simply turn on or off the signal going to the ICM at the exact right point in the rotation as read by the CKP and the TDC signals.

The ECU really does not care about /what/ cylinder gets the spark, the finger in the distributor does that in the conventional way. The ECU /does/ need to know what injector to fire, however, and that is what the CYP sensor is for.

The above is relevant for my '94 Civic. Newer systems have gotten rid of the distributor finger as well, and then you need the CYP sensor to get the right ignition sequence.

I don't know about Honda, but some other newer cars have only one sensor, essentially the CKP. The absolute position information is indicated by missing pulses on the CKP signal. Imagine an ABS wheel sensor where you file away a couple of teeth in the right locations. E.g. you remove 4 teeth, each 90° from the next removed tooth. Then you remove a 5th tooth at some other location. now you can deduce the CKP, CYP and TDC information all from one sensor.

Incidentally, the CKP signal can also be used to detect misfires. During the power stroke, the crank will accelerate a bit, then retard a bit around TDC. This can be measured as a slight variation in the frequency of the CKP signal. If you see that there is no acceleration at the time when you know there is a power stroke, you conclude there was a misfire. This type of detection is required in OBDII equipped cars.

  1. It is my understanding that the output transistor fails in the ignitors. I can not find any reliable reference on this, however. I don't think the main relays fail because of poor soldering from the factory. I believe the solder fatigues over the years, since solder is the only /mechanical/ fastening for a fairly heavy relay. Solder, if subjected to stresses and strains (like shaking a relay for mile after mile), will fatigue. If you have a stranded copper wire, tin the leads and clamp it down really good in a screw terminal, you can come back a few years later and see that the solder has been reduced to dust and that the wire now is loose. I do not believe the ignitor has any heavy components in it.
Reply to
Randolph

Michael Pardee wrote: | Extrapolating from my experience with power transistors...

Thanks for the insights.

| If the switcher is actually a power CMOS device, I don't know enough | about them to say.

Extrapolating from my experience with Power MOSFETs (not much), I would tend to agree. However, I have seen both happening, the MOSFET developing an open-circuit and "wire replacement" :) I wouldn't be surprised if short circuit between drain and source would eventually overheat something inside and cause an open circuit.

Don't know whether current igniters are MOSFET or bipolar. MOSFET would make sense due to the ease of driving them, the ridiculously low losses (perhaps not that much of a problem? I tinkered around with a MOSFET that takes 180A (amps, not milliamps!) and has something like 15 mOhm (milliohm) "on" resistance). On the other hand, car manufacturers tend to be rather conservative with electronics, so they might hold on to bipolar for another while?

From a page on Toyota igniters,

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it seems like bipolar is still infashion.

Now, if they use IGBTs, then someone else needs to give their input ;)

Reply to
tomb

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