92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

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What is the mileage on your clutch? The average life is less that 100k and you are probably getting the signs for a retired clutch. The dealer tells me that there is no adjustment for the pedal travel.
The solution is a replacement but he suggest that I keep driving until it shows the signs you are talking about because he has seen clutches with more than 200k . Probably lots of high way driving.
Vlad
On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 22:03:01 -0700, "Michael Pardee"

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According to the 1990 Owners Manual it states that Clutch Pedal Free Travel is to be adjusted every 12,000km or so. It also states that driving with the clutch pedal free travel out of adjustment will result in premature clutch wear.

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That probably changed on 1991
Vlad

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The 90-93 Integra has a cable-actuated clutch, and it most definitely DOES need to be adjusted (at the release arm). Clearance should be checked at every oil change. Forget that 12K mile interval specified in the manual.
Pull the cable up off the nut's seat. It will come up easily, with only a little effort. There ought to be slightly over 1/8" of space between the nut and the seat. If not, spin the nut with your thumb until you do get that.
If the nut cannot be easily pulled off the seat, the clutch is severely out of adjustment and it is entirely possible that the pressure plate will be prevented from clamping the friction disc properly and it will chatter as though it were worn.
If there is less than 1/4" of thread showing *above* the big plastic nut, you're running on fumes, so to speak. And that's where I am right now with mine. I expect it to start slipping any day now...
Honda clutches will last ages if the right sort of driving is performed. Mine is at 244,147 miles as of today.
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Anyone else have this problem..It seems that when I come off the highway and start to break, my transmission jumps down a gear..Its almost as if I have applied a quick hard break. Last only a milla second, but I am concerned I amy have a tranny problem..Any thoughts????
--
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Not a problem, just very effective engine breaking on downshift. Mine does same, my buddy's also does same. Saves on the brake pads after all.
George in NY 2004 TL 11k miles

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right out and said:

You should get a real newsreader.
-- I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
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I just bought a 94 Legend and I am going over it fixing minor annoyances that I didn't notice before I bought it. One problem is that the driver's side visor does not rest completely against the ceiling but flops down about one inch. It's not enough to obscure my vision, but it is enough to be annoying. In going over the previous owner's records, I see that she replaced the passenger side visor around a year ago for $304.78. Is there a do-it-yourself way that I can fix the visor on the driver's side? Thanks in advance.
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"John Bell" wrote:

If the driver is floppy, I would suspect either sleepiness, drunkeness, lack of skeletal structure, jellyfish genes, or maybe the driver is just very limber? Whether installing a side visor would actually help any of these conditions is debatable. A side visor might block the sun's rays from coming in from the side, but they still could get in through the floor. Or the tires.
Why are you yelling so much? I haven't a clue where your glasses are, nor do I care about gardening gloves. Please take your diatribes elsewhere, as this is a forum for mystery fans and ka-bob-ers.
Hope this helps.
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np

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I just got a acura integra 1994. Its a automatic. And the problem is that I cant shift out of park. I turn on the car and hit the brakes but I cant get it out of park. I have to stick my key in the shift release to get it out of park, but it gets stuck on park if I put it there. I dont know what's up but advice would help out alot. thanx in advance.
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Check the brake light fuse.
David Short Acura God
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the shifter has a shift lock solenoid that is controled by the transmission control module more than likely its a faulty shift lock solenoid but that problem has also been related to a faulty transmission control module <located under the passenger floorboard under carpet>check shift lock solenoid if no apparent melt down visable check trans control module for burnt circuits.ASE certified Transmission rebuilder and electronics tech

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Does anyone know when The Database and software versions should be updated by the dealer?
I am referring to the versions available from the setup menu(system information) not the DVD version.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Hi,
I am looking for acura rsx stock tailligths (2002-2004), will pay 55$ + shipping.
email me if interested.
Vilius
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I have plastic edges (black) on the wheelwells of my 90 Integra to "supposedly" prevent the edge from rocks etc.
My autobody shop said these should be removed as water gets between the metal & the plastic and causes rust to speedup. Which is the case of my baby. He said the newer Acuras no longer have these.
How do you remove them? Are they glued or do I just rip them off? BTW, I am not referring to the after market, cheapie moulding that some users put on.
BIG thanks.
DeWayne dchiass(at)telus(dot)net
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snipped-for-privacy@aci.com wrote in

It does, too. Very well.

Cost savings. That's the only reason why they don't have them.
What you need to do is remove them once a year, wash all the dirt and crud out of them and off the wheel well lip, let dry overnight, spray liberally with Rust Check or Krown, then reinstall.
Unfortunately, in your case, you will never get rid of your rust at this point, regardless of whether or not you have those guards.
Mine are totally rust-free.

The molding has a bead of white adhesive in the bottom of its "U" shape, similar to the stuff that holds your vinyl door sheets on. It sticks to the edge of the wheel well lip.
Just grab one end and pull slowly. It'll eventually peel off.
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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OK I exaggerate. Little things have died. More things than on my 1983 Accord I sold in 2000. First there was the rip in the fabric on the left edge of the drivers seat. A cancer developed in the foam below. I stitched in a tan patch which lasted for a couple of years. Then some of the dashboard lights (heater /defroster stuff) would only come on if I whacked the dash board. Now they don't (maybe a brief flicker). The heater intensity switch went and now I adjust the temp by monkeying under the dash a couple of time per/yr. Then the little plastic piece that keeps the drivers lap-belt available (below left side of drivers seat) broke. Now the key won't open the hatch (WD-40 hasn't helped) though the inside lever still works. The auto itself runs just fine (only 136K) and burns no oil. I've repaired some rust spots below the drivers side rear window. Some are forming on the back of the car (to be expected i guess). Anyone else have these problems on this model?
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snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote in

Not specifically,but it sounds typical of aging autos.(or people!) That's why many people buy new(er) cars,because of all the little things that break as cars age.
And restoring a modern car is not like doing an older one,more parts are plastic,and no longer made nor available,and impossible to reproduce yourself.Plastic ages and deteriorates,becomes brittle and breaks.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
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