92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

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With pretty pictures, too!
Hopefully this will help others understand how this mysterious device works. Figuring this out was an education for *me*, that's for sure.
I'll add cross-reference links on other pages later tomorrow.
Go here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#engelectrical There's a new entry at the bottom of the list, called "How does the EFI Main Relay work?"
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TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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TeGGer® wrote:

tegger, that's truly awesome! may i timidly request a little more emphasis to the failure mode as that's how most people end up looking for this information? otherwise, that's a great job!
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Good suggestion.
I can make a second page on What Happens When It Breaks. Coming soon...
Thanks for the input.
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TeGGeR®

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I just bought a 92 Acura integra RS 2D hatch mint condition. The problem is when I shift up I hear a rattle and I was wondering is it easy to take off by my self or should I go to an auto shop and have them take it off or tighten it for me. I’m kind of new at this and I know that you guys might know more about this than me. Another question is if I do bring it to the autoshop how much would it cost?
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There are a number of heat shields on the exhaust, and their prices vary from about $20 to $50 each. They rust off at the attaching bolts.
There is also one in front of and one behind the exhaust manifold. Replacing the rear one requires unbolting the manifold from the head, and the danger there is that one of the studs will break off, making for a major headache.
It's easy to determine which one is making noise. All you have to do for the ones underneath is to raise the car, get underneath and wiggle/tap them. The rattler will be very apparent.
If repair is required, this can be achieved several ways: 1) Pull them off. Cheapest, quickest way, but not the best. 2) Replace. Best, but most expensive way. 3) Clamp in place so they don't rattle. You can usually successfully use large hose clamps to this end.
As to how much it will cost? You'll have to find out exactly what's wrong first. It might not even be the heat shields.
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TeGGeR®

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Apparently there has been an issue with car dealerships adding hidden charges to inflate the standard DMV registration fees. There are a number of various charges that are suspected of inflating the various fees paid for newly purchased or leased cars. If you check out http://www.lawyersandsettlements.com/case/dmv there is more information on this and what you can do about it. There is also a free case evaluation for those who suspect they might have been subject to this. I hope this may be of help to some.
kr0
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Who thinks kr0 is really a lawyer in disguise trolling for business? Isn't there a shyster newsgroup there this would be appropriate?

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<snip>
Rule 1:
Don't repost the spammer's entire message when complaining in public.
HTH. HAND.
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Dean Dark

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New pages for the EFI Main Relay: - Graphics updated for clarity http://tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/index.html
- New page for what happens when it breaks http://tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/badmainrelay.html
- TSB page will be collated and sorted. Have started with Accord, will do others as I get time. http://tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb /
Have also tried to deal with 404 errors ("Page Not Found...") with a generic redirect message. Since stuff's being pushed around a lot, I'm seeing 404s in my httpd logs from people clicking links they find in Usenet archives.
Apologies for any font problems in Internet Explorer. I'm using Mozilla's Composer to make the pages, and I hate how Composer fills up the html code with blizzards of font config tags, most of which cancel themselves out. Hopefully I can find a fix soon. Maybe I'll just hand-hack in Notepad, copying text over as needed. I was using Composer to try and save time. :(
Any comments or corrections are welcome. tegger (at) istop.com
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Thanks TeGGer, your effort are very much appreciated.
FD

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seconded
Frank wrote:

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Just wanted to say thanks tegger. Your efforts are much appreciated.

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TeGGer® wrote:

tegger, while it can work, i'd be cautious about the phrase "simple to fix this by simply remelting ("reflowing") the solder" in the badmainrelay page.
i say this because i wanted to be quick & lazy a couple of weeks ago & for whatever reason, [some form of internal corrosion i suspect] this method just wasn't going according to plan. i ended up cleaning the joints with solder wick & starting over - the only way i could get the "dry" joints to look like they'd taken properly.
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Hello, Is there a way to turn off the seat belt warning that beeps every minute or so on the 2005 Acura TL ?
Thanks
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Don Moore wrote:

Sure, buckle your seat belt :-)
Back in 2004 this was discussed and I think the answer was "no"
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Remove integrated control module and hand-tighten a wood screw against the beeper diaphragm to stop it from vibrating. That's what I did to my '91.
You can also cut a seat belt buckle off a belt from the wreckers and just plug that in instead. Just about any Honda should fit. This fix will turn off the light as well.
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TeGGeR®

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every
Hey I like that idea about the wrecked buckle. I'll look for one.
Thank You for the response
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I recently bought a 91 Acura Legend L. I was looking for resources on the Internet that would tell me more about this model as well as about upkeep and modifications to pump up the horsepower. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Robert in LA "[The Bill of Rights is] designed to protect individuals and minorities against the tyranny of the majority, but it's also designed to protect the people against bureaucracy, against the government." -- Judge Lawrence Tribe
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try..
legend.org
acura-legend.com
legendtuner.com
Did you get the 4 door or the 2dr?
J '88 L coupe '92 L coupe

against the tyranny of the majority, but it's also designed to protect the people against bureaucracy, against the government." -- Judge Lawrence Tribe
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Are there any Greddy SS headers made for a 2001 Acura Integra GS (non-vtec)? All I've seen is ones for '94-'99.
thanks.
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