92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

Sounds like the reverse shift fork is bent. Requires disassembly to repair. Pretty common if the car has ever been stuck and then rocked from D to R to try to get unstuck.

David Short Acura God

91 Integra has a clutch cable which is adjustable. 95 Integra has hydraulic clutch linkage which is not adjustable.

David Short Acura God

Check the rear mount but some amount of vibration is inherent to the Integra with A/T. Also could be beneficial to adjust the valves to eliminate this possibility.

David Short Acura God

So should a hydraulic clutch with only 23K miles since installation have approx. 1/2 pedal distance of play (softness)??

Is there a big difference >91 Integra has a clutch cable which is adjustable.

Yes there is a difference in feel. Besides the clutch failing the master cylinder can leak causing pedal to lose heighth. Do you mean 1/2 inch of free play or 1/2 the pedal travel? It is possible the clutch is worn depending on abuse etc. Check for a trail of fluid running down the inside of the car from the clutch linkage. If there then cylinder is leaking. Or maybe just needs a good bleeding to restore the height of the pedal.

thanks, david - i'll check this. i had been aware of slight vibration previously, but it's much worse now - rear mount would make sense

Hi all,

I am having major troubles with my 90 Acura Legend LS (has about 180,000 miles on it).

1) Transmission stuck in Park: I start the engine and then can't move the automatic transmission out of Park. I press the brakes down fully, press the silver "trigger" on the gear shift lever, try to press in the button on the left side of the gear shift lever, and still can't get it out of Park.

The steering wheel ISN'T locked, meaning once I start the engine, I can turn the steering wheel and then the tires from side to side. Just the transmission is stuck in park.

I CAN move the gear shift lever if (before I start the engine) I put the key in the transmission release slot that is immediately behind the gear shift lever, put it into neutral, tkae the key out of the slot and then start the engine while in neutral.

I can't say exactly when this started. I loaned my car to my dad for about

6 weeks, and just got it back from him. He said that the problem developed "sometime" in those 6 weeks. I hadn't had this problem before loaning it to my dad.

Before that, I had just taken it into a service shop to have an oil change / 15,000 mile tune up (replace / fill transmission and other fluids). So it couldn't be more than a couple hundred miles since the last time the Automatic Transmission Fluid was changed / filled.

2) Rear Brake Lights / Reverse Lights Not Working:

Also sometime while my dad had the car, the rear tail lights / brake lights / reverse lights stopped working. The front lights and turn signals seem to be okay.

I tried changing around the fuses and that didn't make a difference. I have also had some weired electrical stuff in the past (bizzare static from the radio, starter engine not cranking the first time you turn the key). Plus my dad said that he had to disconnect the battery over night otherwise it would drain and be hard to start in the morning (I think my dad might have disconnected the battery simply because he is almost 80 and likes to tinker with stuff, since I have noticed this at all in the last few days since he returned the car to me).

One other thing happened while my dad had the car. When he was parked at the supermarket, somebody hit the car just behind the front wheel well / driver side door. It must have been low speed, because it is a wide dent (about 16 inches) but very shallow. The front of the rubber trim on the drivers side is now loose. But I don't think that this could have caused any of the above problems, could it?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. ANY HELP you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

I mean 1/2 of the pedal travel, with no resistance, then you feel the pressure of the clutch. This clutch was replaced at 90K, car has 113K. It may just that it needs bleeding. It just feels alot different than the clutch in my 91 Integra. I may test drive the car again and look for leaks.....

Thanks!!

Acura God wrote:

it sounds like the interlock solenoid has failed, or the neutral safety switch. If you have no brake lights, it could also be the brake light switch that is located above the brake pedal (higher up)....this also activates the interlock solenoid.

If you start the car in neutral, can you shift into any of the gears while the engine is on?

Check fuse in under hood fuse box that says Stop or horn. My guess is that it is blown.

David Short Acura God

Yes, if I start in Neutral, I can basically drive the car fine, and am able toshift into any of the other gears, including park (but once I shift it into park, then I am stuck there, since I won't be able to shift it out of park.

Thanks in advance,

Mark

Thank You, David: I will check that on Sunday because that seems like the easiest, least expensive approach - and I am quite likely the laziest, cheapest guy you will ever meet on this forum!!!

One thing though; why the heck would Acura label it Stop or Horn?!?!? Does the Brake fuse affect, say, the CD Player???

I'd check the switch attached to your brake pedal -- not sure if this is the same on your car, but usually this controls the brake lights and the solenoid in the shift stick.

The local Acura dealer tells me that the average lifeof the cluch on the 91 Integra is 130,000 km but the has seen some with more than

250,000. If your driving is mostly high way it will last a longer time that if you do mostly city driving of course.

Vlad

Hey group...

This summer i'll be looking to buy a Gen II (90-93) Integra to use as a commuter car at college. I'll have about $2000-2500 to spend.

I'd like to know some more about these cars, such as how reliable they are, what to look for when buying, and what to expect for that kind of money. Any webpages would be helpful too!

Thanks!

Sometime back in the alt.autos.volvo group one of the regulars posted his solution to the common problem of musty odor in A/Cs. The first step was to ensure the drain hose was clear (it normally drains the evaporator housing to someplace just in front of the passenger), then to turn the A/C on full cold and to spray a mixture into the cabin air intake. I don't recall the exact mixture, but the main ingredient was rubbing alcohol and I think it included Lysol. The spray would condense on the evaporator and kill mold on the surface, then run down into the drain pan and the drain hose.

Mike

Since it will most likely be a high mileage car, make sure the timing belt was replaced at around 90,000 miles. If you cannot be sure of this, be prepared to replace it (or verified that it is not worn). Depending on your tenacity and circumstances, you may be able to get an older model in that price range and they normally run for a long time before needing major service. If you can find one with service records, that would be best. I had an 89 that went almost 200k before needing more major work after the 90k (mostly brakes and tires). Regular oil changes are essential as well.

Good luck. Posted by the Rubber Dino.

there was a recall on this...something about the plastic clip in the seatbelt.