92 Integra RS (5 speed) - shifting into reverse

I've noticed some behaviour that has developed lately in my 92 Integra. On occasion, on a cold start - immediately shifting into reverse causes resistance and the clutch will grind forcing me out of the gear. The
remedy for this I figured out, which works every time, is to shift into first and without letting off the clutch - immediately shift it into reverse. Could anyone shed some insight on this? Thanks.
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First gear is synchronized while reverse is not, otherwise they are pretty much the same. When you hit first the synchros stop the gears and allow you to shift into reverse easily.
This is a good time to change the manual transmission lube if it hasn't been done recently. Genuine Honda MTL is always good, but IIRC somebody here (or maybe in alt.autos.honda) has had good results with a substitute (Redline?).
Mike
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On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 05:43:50 -0700, Michael Pardee wrote:

I see... would having to do this be the sign of an issue down the road?

I'll have to change the fluid. Would this behaviour be caused by old fluid? Thanks for the info.
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It tends to get a little worse with age, but not radically so.

More often low fluid than old fluid. If the level drops there is less resistance to slow the gears down. I recommend changing the fluid because age does make a difference in how well the synchros work (older fluid makes shifting more "balky") and replacing it ensures it is filled properly.
Check out "Whitey's" thread, "Transmission fluid for '05 TL with 6 speed manual" for more on the fluid.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

Exactly. One thing that took me a long time to learn is that even when the shifter is in neutral, if the clutch is up, then the gears are spinning. So that's why it sometimes does not shift smoothly into reverse. There's a few different ways that you can shift into reverse without grinding the gears guaranteed.
1. Like you already figured out, shift into any forward gear to use the synchros to stop the gears. Then shift into reverse. You don't have to do this quickly. As long as you keep the clutch down (disengaged from engine), the gears will not spin again.
2. You could shift into reverse before starting the engine. This would be appropriate if you plan on pulling out soon after starting the engine.
3. Instead of using synchros to stop the gears, you can just hold down the clutch for a while and let the gears slow down on their own. Then shift into reverse (without lifting up the clutch until after shifting).
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nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca:

How much freeplay is there at the pedal?
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On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 17:32:01 +0000, TeGGeR® wrote:

Forgive my ignorance but what exactly is freeplay? Is this the amount of pedal I have before my clutch is fully disengaged?
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nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca:

Freeplay is the very light bit of slack at the top of the pedal's travel. If you push on the pedal with your fingertips, it will go down a bit very easily, then hit something much harder. You should have about an inch of that slack.
If you have LOTS more than that, this can lead to grinding. If you have NO play, it's time for an adjustment, but in that case your grinding is caused by two things: 1) Not waiting long enough for the countershaft to stop spinning, or 2) Low fluid level.
How long have you owned this car?
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On Sat, 16 Sep 2006 02:19:19 +0000, TeGGeR® wrote:

I just checked the freeplay and I do have about an inch of slack until I hit resistance.

Is the countershaft supposed to stop spinning on its own? Other than when I place it into a gear and force it to a stop? ...and is this time affected by low/bad fluid?
As for fluid level, is this fairly easy for a novice to check and refill? According to the pdf manual on my car, I'll have to remove the oil filler plug and check and see if the fluid is level with the opening. Is new fluid then replaced via this same hole? Any pointers / suggestions / tips would be very appreciated.

6 months.
Lots of question I know...thanks! :)
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Good...
The countershaft has mass, and therefore takes time to slow down and stop once the clutch is pressed. Low fluid exerts less drag on the gears, so the countershaft will keep spinning for longer, but it will still eventually stop.
If you let out the clutch in neutral, then push the clutch again and count three seconds, you should then be able to put it in reverse without grinding.
If you count three seconds and it still grinds, let the clutch out, push it back in and wait *ten* seconds. Still grinding? Try thirty seconds. Still grinding?
What I ask here is very important. Please check and report back.

The tranny has two plugs. One is a fill and one is a drain. The fill plug is also used to check the level. You raise the car and place it on stands (or on ramps), then level the car by raising the rear end as well. Remove the fill plug and stick your finger in the hole. The fluid level should be right up to the bottom of the hole. If it's not, it's low.
The fluid should be changed every 30K miles. Failure to do this is one of the causes of premature tranny failure.
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On Sat, 16 Sep 2006 12:11:29 +0000, TeGGeR® wrote:

I went out a few times and couldn't get reverse to grind (I'm not complaining :)).
Either way, I went ahead and flushed/changed the transmission fluid (10w30) and overall notice a smoother feel with shifting. Still no grinding in reverse...

Thanks for the info.
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Don't use 10W-30. Use Honda MTL. The 10W-30 available today is not the same stuff as that used in 1992. Honda no longer specifies the use of regular motor oil in manual transmissions.
Use of 10W-30 will result in accelerated gear and synchro wear.
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haphzrd wrote:

-----------------------------------
If the clutch is hydraulically activated, change (bleed) the brake fluid or at least top it up. Your owner's manual will tell you which reservoir. (tiny one).
'Curly'
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The '92 has a cable.
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"TeGGeR" wrote:

----------------------------
--------------------------
--------------------------------
See why I don't hang round here? Must get back to what I know (better) :-(
'Curly'
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