98 Acura fuel pump relay...

"willy" wrote in news:ZMAqh.11366$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Not 100% sure of exact location on your car, but the PGM-FI Main Relay (its proper name) is always under the dash on the driver's side.

Sometimes its against the steering column, sometimes above the parking brake handle, sometimes between the dash and the firewall.

See here for a few tips:

When you first turn the key to "II", does the Check Engine light come on for two seconds, then go off?

What's your specific problem? Will the car crank but not start?

Cranks, no start. No fuel pressure. Fuel pump doesn't run for a few seconds with key on. Doesn't run when cranking. I'm not getting any hot at the connector at the fuel pump with key the key is turned on. Check engine light comes on, goes out after 2 seconds or so, then comes on and stays on.

news:ZMAqh.11366$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net:

getting

"willy" wrote in news:xXLqh.10220$pQ3.8480 @newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Sounds like the Main Relay all right. You can fix it by re-flowing the soldered contacts.

You know what it looks like now. When you search, you will likely only be able to see the bottom of it, and its connector.

Do you mean the PGM-FI Main relay? I have "hot in on or start" current on the BLK/YEL fuel pump fuse to PGM-FI Main relay wire. I have "hot in start" current on the BLU/RED starter signal fuse to PGM-FI Main relay wire. Nothing on the GRN/BLK PGM-FI Main relay to PCM wire.

Check the diagrams in

against your findings. The text should give you what you need to know about it. Mike

"willy" wrote in news:C_Nqh.14704$X72.14573 @newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Yes, I mean the Main Relay.

First go check the diagrams referenced by Mike.

Then, rather than give wire colors (which are different for each model), give the Main Relay terminals that correspond to what you're checking. Those are common to all port-FI Hondas.

Tegger wrote in news:Xns98B97EE25B0D4tegger@207.14.116.130:

sheesh;he coulda pulled the main relay and resoldered it and *eliminated it* as a problem source,by now.

Tegger/ Mike, THANX ! That did it. I have a relay coming from the dealer today. (1-16). $43.31. I'm not the best at soldering on a board, plus the price isn't that hateful.

Read through the link:

, and foundthat I wasn't getting ground through terminal 8, ECU ground, and foundthere wasn't any current on terminal 7, fuel pump, with key on for afew seconds, and nothing in start. All righty then. For my owncuriosity I took the board, with it plugged in, and bowed/flexed itwith my hand. Key on, pump runs. The board has five solder points thathave the "I got to hot look". Board was brown around them, and had theburnt smell to it.

Car was a "no start" when I got it. After talking to her, (neighbor), she said it was shutting off sometimes, and would not start at times over a three week period, and at any given time, hot or cold. The relay clicked it's three times. It had code PO 300 (misfire), and codes PO 1201 thru 1206, (fuel/air) which I'm guessing came from this problem. I'll drive it for awhile and check the codes again to make sure.

Thanx again for the top notch help, Greg.

checking.

Keep your smart remarks to your self and don't worry about it !!!

*eliminated

"willy" wrote in news:h65rh.10681$pQ3.8831 @newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Excellent! Another happy customer.