There is a cable. It does not require lubrication, but can occasionally
wear into its sheath and bind. Is pedal effort smooth and even all along
its travel? If so, the cable itself is fine.
If you're having difficulty changing gear, that strongly suggests that your
clutch is not disengaging. This can be due to either the friction disc
sticking on its splines, or a misadjusted cable.
Is gear changing easier with the engine OFF?
How many miles on the car?
Is the clutch properly adjusted? (3/4" to 1" freeplay at the pedal)
I was hoping you would see my message.
I can see that I wasn't clear and you conclude that the problem was on
the clutch mechanism.
The difficulty is to move the gear stick from gear to gear, as if
there is a cable with dry lubrication.
The problem exists with or without the engine running.Consequently it
eliminates the clutch.
The car only has 80,000 miles
If there is a cable .His it accessible from the inside of the car, by
removing the center console?
Ah, in that case... You're probably not far off, but...
Your gearshift linkage consists of a couple of rigid steel rods. There is
Sounds like the car hasn't been driven much and the linkage is a bit
You can do two things:
1) Take the car for a long drive, maybe an hour or more in city traffic, so
the lever gets lots of use, or
2) Just keep driving it as you were and wait for it to loosen up.
You could also put it on stands, get underneath, and spray copious amounts
of silicone lubricant around the shift lever area above the exhaust, and
where the rods go into the transmission.
I have followed your advise and I noticed a good improvement. The
mechanic told me to go back and repeat the operation until everything
goes back to normal.
Of the topic. I replaced my catalytic converter and the same mechanic
suggested that I keep the car for a few years because it is an
excellent car. I believe that you also have one, 91GS
The shift linkage under the car is binding. You can also loosen the bolt
that gpes thru the bushings at the shifter base and lube there to correct
it. Very important not to tighten the bolt too tight or you will still have
the same prob.
That brings back my previous question. Can I get assess to the
refereed components from the top ( by removing the center console) or
do I have to do it from under the car? If it must be done from under
the car, the shield located above the exhaust, have to be also
Thanks a million.
Under the car is very much the best. If you want to attempt disassembling
things from up top, you're going to have quite a job pulling things apart.
With a spray the shield doesn't need to come off.
I still think your best bet is simple use. Just go drive the car around for
an hour or so in heavy city traffic until it loosens up.
The thing that's most probably most sticking is (as David said) the pin
with the rubber grommets on either side:
Time dulls the memory of painful events, but I recently had a tussle with
the bushings. They are in an inconvenient place, and actually removing the
bushings sets you up for a reassembly that requires patience. Give the
bushings a spray with silicone lubricant (definitely not WD-40) and see how
it works out. Loosening the nut on the bolt is not a big hassle if you need
to do that, and it isn't nearly as hard to put the rubber exhaust hangers
back on as I thought. A squirt of silicone does the trick on that as long as
the lower end is put on first.
I did not drop the exhaust. Unbolting the shield and moving it out of the
way was enough.
Removal of the sleeve was the hardest part, and it took me a bit to
discover that all I needed was a small C-clamp, a deep socket, and the new
sleeve. By arranging all this so that when the C-clamp was tightened, the
new sleeve pushed the old into the deep socket at the other end. Since the
new sleeve did not have its O-rings on yet, it did not stick in place and
was easily removed after.
The hardest part was picking the plastic cups out, and even that wasn't
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