Acura Integra Will Not Start

Hello, I was driving home and my 90 Acura Integra just engine quit. I pulled over and imediatley checked the spark plugs for a spark. (The car quit
the same way 6 months earlier, but it was a failed distributor) There was a spark. So I towed the car to my house and checked the fuel. I pulled the fuel line at the fuel filter and had a large gush when I turned the key on and again when I tried starting. I also verified there is fuel coming out of the injectors.
I then checked the timing belt and it was ok.
I am at a loss....Any suggestions?
Thanks
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I like to verify whether the problem is fuel delivery by seeing if a burst of starting fluid in the air cleaner produces a vroom when the engine is cranked.
Anyway, a thought from left field. My son used aftermarket parts to replace the tune-up items in his '94 Teg. Soon afterward the engine suddenly quit on the freeway, with just a surge or two before it died completely. Still spark, but it didn't seem rhythmic. The aftermarket rotor had sheared and was distributing the spark randomly to various wires.
When you checked the timing belt, did you verify the cam and crank were still in time with each other? A lot of timing belt failures don't involve the belt actually breaking.
Mike
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wrote:

Thanks. I will try the starting fluid. I am also going to borrow a fuel pressure guage to check if the fuel pump is delivering enough pressure.
I did verify that the cam and crank were still in time.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in

Don't pull the line at the filter, pull the low-pressure line from the fuel pressure regulator. This way you know fuel is making it to the far side of the fuel rail.
Have you checked for injector pulse? Is the Check Engine light on?
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Temporarily install a length of fuel hose to the output of the regulator, and put the other end of that into a jar. Keeps things neat, of course.
--
Tegger

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Thanks for the help. I checked the fuel pressure and it was lower than spec, so I changed the fuel pump. But before I changed the pump I tried starter fluid and the car still would not start. So I knew the fuel pump was not the main problem.
I check the rotor earlier in the troubleshooting but I did not look at it close. Since I had spark I did not pay much attention, but I should have. The screw that holds the rotor disintegrated and the rotor was spinning but not even close to being the correct time. All that work for a $9 part.
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My left field mention was right! That was the same failure my son had, although the inner metal sleeve separated from the rest of the rotor. It was that failure that really convinced me OEM parts are worth it.
Mike
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Wow! Well there ya go. Gonna buy OEM from now on, I guess?
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