Integra 91 GS Smelled the typical odor of brakes over heating

91 Acura , Integra GS. Probably the most popular model on this group, thanks mainly to Tegger.
The car has no visible rust and less than 100 k miles but I am
seriously thinking of putting it to rest.
The other day, after about 5 miles on the highway , I smelled the typical odor of brakes over heating. The 2 front disk assemblies could not be touched. Very hot I removed one front wheel and found that the pads are touching but the disk was easy to turn.
Questions: a) If the pistons don't go back due to rust, why does the problem appears on the 2 front wheels at the same time, coincidence?
b) Admitting the possibility that air would expand when hot and move the pistons closer to the disks.I have tried to open the bleeder but I was afraid to brake the nipple. It was frozen.
c) A common element to the 2 sides is the ABS, the master cylinder and the hand brake if it operates the front wheels.
Except for the Air Condition the car runs well but also needs tires and in Quebec one must buy 8 ( Winter and Summer tires) . I am prepared to spend no more than about $300 . During my 80 years of existence and more than a dozen cars, this one was by far the most reliable one.
Thanks for the help
John
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What's an 80 yr old doing in an Integra GS? OK I'm 66 but was only 47 when I bought it...lol...
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On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 10:01:12 -0700 (PDT), finding Z zero

Well, to be more precise, I am 81.8 and sold my Jag E3 that I got new in 1973 for about 11k and sold it for 30k. According to my doctor I should be good to 120 so, presently I am middle age. I keep the Integra GS for reliability and when I need 4 seats and drive a 2 seat MB500SL for comfort and show off.
Have I satisfied your curiosity?
John
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Would you like to adopt me and my family?
I paid 15.3K for the GS Integra in 1991 and sold it 2 days ago for $500. My new car is a 2001 Prelude (bought new), and I bought a 1981 650XS Yamaha Special 3 yrs ago to satiate my sports car desire. Cheers!
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They usually rust in tandem, but one usually does gets odoriferous before the other. If you had an infrared thermometer ($80 at NAPA, cheaper at Crappy Tire), you would see the difference in temperature.
Simple test: First drive of the day, driving normally, get out at the first stop signal or sign and feel the wheel nuts with your fingertips. If you can't tell one wheel from the other, go to the next stop and check again. Eventually, checking very frequently, you should be able to detect that one disc is getting noticeably hotter than the other. And that's the smelly one. Do not brake too gently, as too-gentle braking activates only one of the two diagonal circuits.

You're doing well! My mother is 83-and-a-half. She hasn't driven a car in 20 years, and she's in no physical shape to be able to do that anymore, no matter what. We've spent a lot of time in the hospital in the last six months...
--
Tegger

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wrote:

Tegger
I am doing what you suggested but I get the impression that the heat is decreasing. Only short trips of no more than 3 miles. The same heat from both sides When the car is parked over-night the pads are not blocking the wheels. In the morning, on a horizontal brick drive way, when I place the car in neutral, it may move about an inch or so.
I think that I am going to wait a few weeks and see the result . After all, what can I lose? I may have to do a complete brake job. About a $1k but this time I am going to the dealer. I was not pleased with my last brake work . They replaced the calipers, the disks and the pads (so they say) but after that, every time I applied the brakes the car move to the left. With time the problem fix itself.
I will let you know is anything happens.
About your mother, I hope everything turns to your satisfaction. I remember telling the doctor that I was old when I was 60 . Not any more, he said, now you are middle age. I have been looking after my youngest son (43) that has schizophrenia. A perfect human being other wise.Fortunately he was born in a country (Canada) that takes good care of the ones that can't help them self. Except for my time (and lots of it) never spent a cent for the medical and other services provided. He actually has improved with age. I use to say that given another 200 years and he will be alright.
Regards
A
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Let me update my novel. Since it is very easy to replace the front brake pads, that is what I did. It isn't a perfect repair but it moved the cylinder's to a previous position and it solve temporarily the problem . No more overheating.
Now I have another problem . The shift gear leaver it's so lose that sometimes I can't fined the proper gear location. Since the car has less then 100 k miles I think I am going to get the 2 rubber bushings replaced.
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Thanks for the update. Many people never bother.

As you've probably guessed, it's likely because the pistons have been pushed-in to the point where the gummed/corroded part is now inboard of the seal. As the new pads wear, the pistons will get sticky again.

The kit's about $50-60. This job is an absolutely disgusting pig to do, even more so if you have an aftermarket cat installed.
If you've never done it before, you're in for a very unpleasant few hours. To do it right, you need to remove the plastic cups from the shift lever and sand the cylindrical receiver for those cups. Removal of the cups is the tough part.
Then again, you might get lucky, and all that's wrong is the nut has backed off. Try snugging the nut first.
--
Tegger

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wrote:

Your message dissipated any ambition that I had for doing the work myself. I am just back from the local garage that order the required parts and do the work next Wednesday. The total cost will be about $300 Once more many thanks
John
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Three hundred bucks for changing the shifter bushings? A pro can do the job in about an hour without taking anything apart other than dropping the heat shield for better access to the shifter. I'd say $150-200 would be more reasonable.
Again, don't discount the possibility the nut has backed-off and the shifter is just loose. The nut can and does back-off on its own. Retightening it takes minutes and costs nearly zero.
If you're having that much trouble finding a gear, there's a good chance the nut is just loose. Worn bushings on their own don't usually make the lever THAT sloppy.
--
Tegger

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wrote:

Thanks to your information I was able to have un informed discussion with the garage and get the work done by $209 . I am extremely pleased with the car. It feels like driving a new one. I am thinking of renewing a few things like the seat cover for the drivers side and the ABS that apparently has one intermittent sensor.
Many thanks again.
John
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You're welcome.
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