Is this a fuel pump relay problem?

My 94 GS-R sat in the parking lot all day in the sun and it was about 90 in Chicago today. So the inside was pretty toasty when I got in. The engine fired right up and I shifted immediately into reverse.
Before I could let out the clutch, it died suddenly. Cranked and cranked but wouldn't restart. Opened all the windows, sunroof, checked the fuses, took a call on my cell phone. Must have been opened up for 5 - 10 minutes when I tried it again. It cranked for about 5 seconds and suddenly started. Ran fine all the way home with the AC on.
Does this sound like a fuel pump relay? (Also called "main" relay?) I am thinking the car started with residual pressure and died as soon as the pressure dropped. The relay started working after it cooled down a little, but it took 5 seconds to pressurize the system before the engine started. Has anyone else had this experience?
If it is the relay, is it totally unreliable at this point or is it likely to keep working if it stays cool?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

yes. I'm surprised you had time to even get it into reverse before it died.

www.tegger.com,see "main relay". the relay on my 94 GSR failed like this 4-5 years ago,I resoldered it and have had no problems since. BTW,it fails more frequently over time. Also,resoldering it saves you $50 or more,and eliminates it as a trouble source.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Gordon McGrew wrote:

sounds like relay. don't monkey about - replace, or if you're cheap, resolder.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Gordon McGrew wrote:

-------------------------
I think you've nailed it. Since you've never had trouble with it, it will last forever if you just resolder it. A new one will have the same flimsy solder on it that was on the original. Since we're talking about a '94, you got good life out of it already. :-)
'Curly'
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Gordon McGrew wrote:

------------------------------------
It's never totally unreliable, since you can always start a Honda that has a bad solder joint in the Main Relay by turning the key to position II, smack the dash on the left side of the steering wheel (North America), and listen to the fuel pump run for three seconds. Honda will start and vibration will usually keep the relay 'sparkin' to get you wherever you need to go.
'Curly'
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Thanks Curly and all who replied.
I am waiting for an opportune time to pull it out and solder it up. I will probably go ahead and hit all the pins unless there is a reason not to. Worked fine today but it was cooler.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Gordon McGrew wrote:

best results come with de-soldering first. use a good quality higher wattage soldering tool. some of the terminals you need to solder are quite big pieces of copper and they'll suck the heat to the point of uselessness on the usual small stuff. i have a 60W hakko and it's about right.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

And use electrical solder,not plumbing solder. (rosin fluxed,not acid fluxed.)
Don't "flux" it up! 8-)
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.