I have a 90 Acura Integra. Most of the time when I go to start the enigines fires off for less than a second then quits. The second start try usually works and I have no issues until I try to restart the car again. I have changed the main fuel pump relay, installed a new starter, and a new fuel pump has been installed in the last six months. Any ideas?
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@r34g2000hsd.googlegroups.com:
Ignition switch?
What you describe is usually the Main Relay, which you say you replaced. Was the replacement a new one or one from a wreck?
Tegger wrote in news:Xns99A48CF29B514tegger@207.14.116.130:
it would not surprise me to find a new relay having bad solder joints.
Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns99A4D2A354C03jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.86:
I doubt that. Honda is not in the habit of allowing defective goods into its parts stream.
Main Relays go bad through heat cycling and vibration.
Tegger wrote in news:Xns99A4D3E55A684tegger@207.14.116.130:
solder can crystallize over time.If a relay has been sitting in stock for a long time,it's solder joints could be crystallized,ready to crack under stress or thermal cycling.(tin migrates,grows whiskers,too.)
innews: snipped-for-privacy@r34g2000hsd.googlegroups.com:
I have not looked at that. Great idea. The Main Relay was new.
Before I changed the main relay the car would not fire at all. It is firing now, but then cuts off. I have a RPM spike now, when before the relay I had nothing.
I think the ignition switch is a great recommendation.
Is there a way to test the ignition switch?
Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns99A4E9A64BB8Djyanikkuanet@64.209.0.85:
Didn't know that.
There's a thread (ha ha) in sci.materials on just that.
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:
If you can turn the switch ever so slowly and find a "sweet spot" where problems occcur, then the switch may be bad.
See here for more details:
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:
put a voltmeter on the wire from the "operate" position that supplies
12 Volts to the engine circuits,and monitor it while you crank,start and when the motor dies.If you lose 12V after cranking and releasing the key to the run position,then the switch is bad.MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.