TL takes longer to start???

I have a '98 2.5 TL with 70k. Lately I have to turn the key longer for it to start - about twice to three times as long as when new. It still starts
fine everytime, but I'm concerned this may wear the starter. Any thoughts? Tks, MZ
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How old are the plug wires?
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Probably original. Plugs are 1yr old. Come to think of it, sometimes it "lopes" right after being started as well.
MZ
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Replace the plug wires (with OEM!). You're overdue and you need them anyway.
Plug wires really only last about seven years before the insulation gets dodgy. In wet or humid weather, the HT current leaks off before the plugs and you'll get a weak spark.
If replacing the plug wires doesn't help, then further diag is necessary.
How's your coolant level in the rad and in the expansion reservoir?
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Try cranking for about half a second, letting the switch rest in the "run" position for a few seconds, then starting. If the engine starts right away, the fuel rail pressure is probably bleeding off.
If not that, do the usual tune-up things. Replace distributor cap, rotor and plug wires with OEM parts if they are original, and replace the plugs (ditto) with NGK plugs or OEM plugs. If you are not using top tier gasoline regularly, a bottle of injector cleaner (most people favor Techron) in the tank is in order. Make things right first, then troubleshoot.
Mike
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I always turn the key and wait for the "buzzer" to go off before attempting to start. Always use premium fuel also. Have never used injector cleaner - have always been skeptical. Will consider though.
Thanks, MZ

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Does the manual CALL for premium gas? If not,you're wasting money for nothing.
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Yes, stamped right on the instrument cluster. MZ

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What I suggest is to "bump" the starter and then wait a few seconds before actually trying to start. The fuel pump in most cars doesn't run until the starter has first been engaged, then it will run for (usually) about five seconds in hopes the engine will start in that time. That behavior is what is used for the "shadetree" test for fuel pressure leakoff. By allowing the pump to run and pressurize the fuel rail, the engine will then start (or not) the same regardless whether the pressure had leaked off. Why does it matter, and the engine not start after a very short delay? I don't know, although I've watched a fuel pressure guage while doing this to a Jeep that had a leaky check valve - in the tank! - and the pump took a couple seconds to build the pressure back up.
Mike
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Toyota does that.
Honda runs the fuel pump for two seconds when the ignition key is first turned to "II". This coincides with the illumination of the "Check Engine" light during those two seconds.
I have found it helpful to wait an additional few seconds after that initial priming, before cranking. The car seems to start faster that way.
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MZ wrote:

-------------------------------
X 2 about the injector cleaner. You may have a dribbling injector that's bleeding your fuel rail pressure over time. Has it ever been WORSE on Monday morning? I try too use injector cleaner 3 - 4 x per year.
'Curly'
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Not that I've noticed.
Have never used injector cleaner - have always been skeptical. Will consider though. Thanks, MZ
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MZ wrote:

Is the cranking speed up to snuff? A great indicator of a tired main battery is slower cranking and slower starting. How old is the battery?
John
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Battery is good - couple yrs old, not much use. MZ
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