Yes, it's as simple as that.
Just handle the connection with care, wire-brush it clean, and don't
overtighten it after.
Rough handling and overtightening will risk cracking the case/post seal,
and you'll get that fuzzy green corrosion everywhere.
Also smear some white grease or petroleum jelly on the terminal and post
before reconnecting, then put some more on top afterwards. Even spray white
grease will do.
If your car is post'96, you'll need to drive it around for a week or so to
let all the OBD-II emissions flags set, so you won't be able to pass
certain emissions tests until then. And if your car is new enough for its
automatic tranny to have "grade logic", the computer will need to relearn
that as well, so it might feel funny for a while.
No - both of those are non-flammable. Petroleum jelly is often used for
battery terminals for the same reason it is used on skin - it forms a
persistent barrier to liquids (battery acid in this case). It has the
advantage of being found in the baby department of any drug store or
supermarket. Now, if only it weren't so messy....
Your battery is potentially explosive. A bit of grease on the terminals is
nothing compared to the inherent risk of explosion contained in any lead-
acid battery. Garages put grease on the terminals as a matter of routine.
You can put literally any kind of grease on the battery terminals. You
don't need to put it on like you were putting cream cheese on a bagel, just
a skin will do. Got some Crisco? Lard? That'll do too.
As Mike says, it's there to prevent corrosion by excluding gases. Not only
does it protect against battery acid, but the oxygen in the surrounding
By the way, you can use petroleum jelly, but don't use KY-Jelly. That's
water-based, for obvious reasons. :)
I received a reply from Bill Darden:
"Some external chargers are not voltage regulated and produce charging
voltages in excess of 15 VDC. These higher voltages can damage electronic
and electrical accessories in the vehicle such as the emission computer.
Another possibility is static electricity or spikes when connecting the
charger. Reversing battery jumper cables or battery charger leads is a
more common problem."
Basically the problem seems to boil down to two things:
1) Reversing the cables, and
2) Using an inappropriate charger.
What I'm reading into this is that if you were careful, knew what you were
doing, and used the right equipment, it would be OK to charge the battery
i would not do it...i wouldn't even jump other car with my car...
I've heard it's "not good" for modern car circuitry
That's why I carry with me a portable car jumper so I don't appear like
to help people jump car.
Modern car is partly like a computer with pretty sophisticated
Heck I wouldn't mind frying a Desktop but a 30K car.....I wont take the
25 years ago I would have said you were being overcautious. Today your
approach is wise.
Part of the problem is in the question: why does the car need a jump? At the
very least, the battery is dead. Charging a dead battery with the alternator
is not a good idea any more (http://tegger.com/hondafaq/altcharge.html ). The
"what could be wrong" possibilities go downhill from there. In the end, who
wants to connect a good car to a known bad one?
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.