1987 Audi 5000 Timing Belt

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I think it finally happened:
While driving, the engine suddenly stopped without any warning whatsoever!
And the engine did not restart, slow turnover,
sounded like a battery getting weak.
The camshaft does not turn anymore.
So, it looks like a broken timing belt.
Question I have:
On this 5 cylinder engine, what is the likelyhood of any collateral damage to the engine, valvetrain etc?
Any thoughts?
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Marti, Chances are at least one piston has dinged a valve - it depends somewhat on the code of your engine to say whether it was designed as an interference (valves and pistons occupy same cylinder space at different times - 10 valve turbo engines) or non-interference (most 10 valve non-turbo engines) - HOWEVER, just because it was designed as "non-interference" doesn't mean that the piston won't hit a valve if there is some slack in the piston wrist pin and con rod bearings. Have a shop do a leakdown test to confirm valve integrity Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
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On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 17:13:34 -0400, "Steve Sears"

Thanks Steve,
It is a non-turbo 2.3 liter engine.
I didn't hear any metallic noises, it was a silent death in the middle of traffic.
Now I just have to take that stuff apart.
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you should be fine! change the belt and keep driving it! ;-)
later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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On 30 Sep 2004 03:10:45 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comANTISPAM (dave) wrote:

I am speculating there may not be any valve damage.
Looking at my old Bentley Official Factory Repair manual, there doesn't seem to any specific instructions as to "how-to-do the timing belt replacement on this old 1987 Audi 5000. (BTW, still drives like a new car)
Any thought on finding some instructions on the internet, and/or a better manual?
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hmmm there should be good instructions in the engine section of your Bentley.
I believe the hardest part for most is getting the Crank Sprocket/Pulley off and back on correctly. If it is installed loosely then it will damage the sprocket and the crank in time.
You can use a tool to lock the driveplate/flywheel from turning and then use a breaker bar to deal with the Crank bolt. I have used a brake tool that looks like a bent screwdriver.
There should be just two points to align for the timing, Cam and Crank. I check the '0' position of the crank by removing the #1 spark plug. I think the Cam sprocket has a mark on it that aligns with the left side of the valve cover surface of the cylinder head. Waterpump adjusts the tension. Most places will change this too, but it is up to you. The waterpump or gasket may leak if it is disturbed though! There are 1 or 2 ways to install the belt without disturbing the waterpump.
Replacing the idler bearing (or whatever it is called) is a good idea too. It is your call as to how elaborate you get with this job. And I am not sure you wish to change the front crank seal or camshaft seal too.
just a quick search on google found me this: http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi / http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tbwp.htm
Now have fun!!!
later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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On 01 Oct 2004 02:18:55 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comANTISPAM (dave) wrote:

To get the cam sprocket off, I've found that putting a large screwdriver through one of the sprocket slots and then through the engine lifting eye will hold it enough to unbolt it.
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use a

looks
You can also lock it by putting a large screwdriver in a hole at the edge of the driveplate/flywheel. There is somewhere a hole at the bottom side in the gearbox housing where you can put the scewdriver through. Worked fine for me.
Al
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,
Thank You all for the nice tips!
Fortunately, I have enough time and will start the disassemble.
I guess the big moment comes, when you start the engine after the work...
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One more Question:
I have a few sockets for the the big 3/4 extension, but none fits the big crankshaft pulley bolt.
So I need to get out and buy 3/4 socket for that bolt.
Anybody recall what the size is? (it is for the l987 5000 5 cylinder engine)
marti-
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Not I :-(
I think I use a 1/2" drive socket and a breaker bar. I know some of the early 4 cylinders took a 19mm 12 point socket, but I don't do the 5 cylinders much.
I can try to measure a 1985 A5KS crank sprocket bolt on Monday, if you will still need the info then.
later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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On 03 Oct 2004 02:37:09 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comANTISPAM (dave) wrote:

I actually want to buy the right size for the excisting 3/4 Drive Socket,
John mentioned, it might be a 27mmm bolt, but I don't mind to wait 'til monday if you want to check the 1985 A5KS.
I realize it might be different for the 1987, but I still appreciate the input.
Thanks again, marti-
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No I think that they should be the same. I did an Audi 100 and it seemed the same, but different sprockets and timing belt!
Here is a writeup for a '91 200q20v http://members.aol.com/audipage/timing.html You don't have to do all of the body disassembly to my knowledge though!
I will check and let you know what the size is on the 85 5000S! later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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It's a 27mm. Like the other poster, I've used a 1/2" socket with a three foot breaker bar and a three foot section of pole-vaulting pole at the end of that.
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wrote:

I'm an Elecrical Engineer & not very strong. My approach was rather inelegant maybe, but worked for me. Just an 18" inch breaker bar on 1/2" 27mm socket and a sledge hammer. It didn't need a massive swing, I did read somewhere in group archives of removing one of the bellhousing fixing bolts and inserting it from underneath the car through a hole in the bellhousing to lock the flywheel when at TDC (or thereabouts ... can't actually remember.)
http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm:E55371.4925FDB6%40isham-research.freeserve.co.uk
I managed to do this and it seemed a more "solid" way of locking the flywheel than using a cold chisel on the starter ring teeth for my brutal attack with the sledge hammer.
Good luck however you tackle the job Ian
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Re: What size sockets to use:
From "Harborfreight" here in San Diego, I just bot a 21 Piece 3/4 Metric Heavy Duty Socket set including: 1 Steel Storage Case 1 19 1/2" heat treated steel ratched 1 18" sliding T-Bar 4" and 8" extensions
Chrome plated Socket Sizes (Metric)
19,22,24,26,27,28,30,32,34,36,38,41,42,45,46,48,50mm (made in China)
Thought I post this, in case somebody else is looking for a similar deal.
Thanks to all for all the input! marti-
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sorry, forgot to mention the price:
it was $34.99
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Glad you have it covered! :-) I did not have a chance to check that 85 5000S since Dad drove it today. :-(
How much was this Socket set?
later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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On 04 Oct 2004 23:00:04 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comANTISPAM (dave) wrote:

Yes, I posted it because it was so cheap!
Just $34.99. Unbelieveable!
marti-
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sounds good let us all know what size you needed! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumberT94 I see you also bought it on sale too!! ;-) later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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