1991 90 quattro front wheel bearing

I have a noise from the front right corner (I suspect wheel bearing). The noise persist when coasting and seems related to speed, not to engine revs.
Has someone changed front wheel bearing? Is it a complicated task? Any special tools (like press?) Thanks Petkan, Toronto
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've changed several front bearings on my 85 4000Q and my '95 90Q. It's not a bad job. A 12 Ton press makes it very easy. I've used greased threaded rods and various peices from Home Depot as well. If you have room for a small press it's a good thing to have for wheel beariings, lower control arm bushings and such.
The only trick it to make very certain that you press the new bearing in straight and watch very carefully not to get it cocked in the housing.
The first shot at doing it could take the better part of a day to assemble the right sized pieces of pipe and stuff to press the bearing but once you have that sorted out it's a pretty quick job.
Harbor Freight has a 12 ton press for $99. With that and some of their bearing and seal press kits I can do a bearing in less than 2 hours, start to finish, if I take my time.
Gene

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I have done them for mine and friends about six times.
I have done it like Gene described but there is a bearing puller tool available that allows you to do it without removing the strut.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OLD-7325.html
Not cheap.
Pull the strut: Remove the wheel and the axle nut (takes a big breaker bar and a six foot pipe extension) I think that it is 32 mm but I use a 1 1/8 inch socket Remove the tie rod end. Brake caliper. ABS sensor (check the position closely so that it is same dimension from the pick up ridges when replacing it.) I use a six foot 4X4 to pry the sway bar down when removing the lower control arm bolt. Most others drop the sway bar but that is a bit of a PITA IMHO. Hold strut when removing the three nuts from the top and it is out. The bearing has a large snap ring in and out. A snap ring pliers with a lock to hold tension when you are taping to loosen it is a big help. Use appropriate chunks of steel in the press to CAREFULLY press the bearing out. Carefully because it takes a lot of pressure and you don't want to launch it when you are in the way.
I have removed and replaced a bearing with a BFH and a punch. It worked better than I expected but a press is strongly recommended.
Tony '91 100Q 5spd
Petkan wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Does it change pitch or intensity when you veer/turn left or right? It should if it is a front wheel bearing! IIRC The right side would get a little quieter when you turn right, and noisier when you turn left.
I agree with you and the others and it could be the wheel bearing. But it is good to try to pinpoint it before you attempt repairing it to make sure it is the right front! Sometimes noises can be misleading. 8^) Note: If you take that knuckle/strut off with normal tools, you can probably take it to a machine shop and have them press the wheel bearing out and in for a small charge.
Do your tires look excellent? Check all of them!
--
later,
dave

"When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.