2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question

I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent) as well as front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place, plus another $100 for brake hydraulics system flush). The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't feel like taking the chance.
The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of upcoming failure, and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't save any time if they needed replacing later. I thought the thermostat and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time because it made sense while one was in there. Now that I look at the receipt, it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100), a cooling system flush ($150), and an air induction system cleaning ($175). Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be performed at or near this mileage/age, and b. if these are reasonable prices?
Thanks for the input, Bill
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"b" wrote

You better double check on this, as it is actually the tensioner that is the cause of all the premature timing belt failures on the 1.8T engines. So, the tensioner needs replacing more than the belt itself.
However, a knowledgeable shop would replace the tensioner and rollers along with the belt. Then again, a knowledgeable shop would not tell you to wait at least unitl 90K miles to have it done in the first place.
Pete
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So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers :-(
b wrote:

this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent. If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your engine >> $5K +++
as well as

Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and easy to do.
plus another $100 for

OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
The odometer read 73k and the mechanic

You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the engine during the job.

And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with your money and down the road as fast as possible.
and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't

Total BS. He is wrong again.
I thought the thermostat

Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
Now that I look at the receipt,

Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to loose your engine and a lot of money.

A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
a

Same
and an air induction system cleaning

A what? BS! BS! BS!
Maybe an air filter?
Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be

Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on this maintenance.
and b. if these are reasonable

No.
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Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this time one that knows Audi's!
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snip
So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
--Art
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Art M wrote:

The tensionser has been redesigned and is more dependable than the origional one. Most of the water pumps from the factory have plastic impellers. Always replace with a pump that has a metal impeller.
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wrote:

This is good to know, but what I'm curious about is how many miles I can go on the tensioner/water pump/thermostat I installed at 63k miles (I'm at 104k miles now). Should I do this lather/rinse/repeat again at 125k miles or can I go longer?
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KLS wrote:

The general consensus is that all the components should be replaced at 60K intervals.
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Is the tensioner the tensioned roller or the tensioned damper with the idler roller? Should both be replaced? Is it all right to just replace the idle roller on the damper?
Thanks
--Art
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Art M wrote:

The one with the damper is referred to as the tensioner. (The one closer to the cam pulley)
Both should be replaced. The tensioner has the worst reputation for failure but failure of either will ruin your whole day.
I don't think that you can replace the roller itself. The tensioner is replaced as an assembly. Besides, the failure is mostly due to the damper itself.
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Art, this is one service you do NOT scrimp on.; do both. Some failures are annoying and will leave you stranded until fixed; a failure here probably means a new car for you (this is how you should look at it).
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