Binding brake pads on A4

All,
This one for those of you with own experience of brake pad replacement.
I have just replaced front pads and disks on my 2001 (B5) A4 Avant. I am
now getting slight overheating on the right side, probably due to the pads binding on the mounting frame and not leaving the disk when brake pedal is released.
When I installed the pads, I noticed that the "hooks" on the pads were very tight going over the frame. Had to tap them into place, methinks this is not such a good sign ;-) My impression is that there should be a bit of play.
Should I consider filing the insides of the pad hooks slightly, so that the fit is slightly looser? If I were to do this, the overheating will stop, but I wonder if maybe this would cause the pads to start rattling around a bit. Would they?
I am unfamiliar with the peculiarities of brakes on the Audi, though I have rebuilt/reconditioned tons of brake calipers on old Saabs.
Tnx for your input /Robert
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There should not be any play. You should use a little caliper grease to keep them from binding. Unless you had to "hammer" rather than "tap" them on, I would guess your caliper needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
Robert Brown wrote:

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Jim wrote:

Thanks for your tip. No, the caliper is fine. Brake piston returns smoothly and easily, piston seal is fine, guide pins and holes sliding freely in relation to each other, without play.
But you got me thinking along the lines of "no play" vs. "too snug", for the brake pads on their mounting frames. In my case, even with the copper grease, they were "too snug". This morning, a couple of strokes of the file, plus more copper grease, got the pads moving laterally, freely, and without introducing play.
/Robert
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Now my question is how do you know it's only the right side that's overheating? Do you keep dipping your index finger through the rim while driving? :)
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JP Roberts wrote:

Because the left side is much cooler.

Something like that. First I drive around with minimal use of brakes (use clutch or engine braking to stop the car, preferably on an uphill section if I can find one). Idea is that no brake pedal has been used in the process. In fact, to check front brake drag, you can stop the car using the handbrake, which activates the rear wheels of course.
Disks should not be hot to the touch; right and left ones should be of similar temperature. And yes, I poke my fingers through the rim to check them. Carefully. I don't know of any other way, do you?
Then I repeat the test, after driving around with lots of brake pedal. This time it suffices to hold the hand close to the disk. It's just a matter of comparing the heat radiating from each side.
Removing both wheels and rotating the disks by hand will also give a good indication of where the problem is.
/Robert
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