Car help/advice (1989 Audi 200 quattro)

Hi, I own an 1989 Audi 200 quattro and my knowledge on cars is severely limited. I really would like to take the time to get to know my car and how to treat it
better. And I figure since I'm so young (18) that I'd best start learning. I have a pretty good mechanic who has a pretty good familiarity with Audi's, however he still doesn't know everything and I just wanted to know of some specific things that I should possibly have him check on that may be problematic for my type of vehicle.
Right now I have no power brakes, or steering, and my antilock off light is on constantly, even when I push the ABS button on it to turn it back on. My mechanic told me that I needed to get a new power steering pump and that it would fix the problems. I have already gone ahead and placed an order for the pump, but is that all that I need do you think? I'm not sure if that pump will fix the ABS problem, or if it will just fix the power steering and brake problem. Also, he said I need to get the synthetic power fluid for the car and only can get it direct at Audi, but the Audi dealer over here charges $25 for it and I know that I can get it online for cheaper, now my question is do I get the Pentosin CHF 7.1, or the 11S?
I don't know what it's called but I don't have where the flap that goes over the space where my air filter is. Is this something that I should try getting? If so what is it called so I can get one? Also, I live in Central Oregon, and it's becoming that time where it's becoming snowy and the weather is getting to be a little more nasty and cold. I really need to get an oil change as it's now been 1,000 miles over (only due to financial reasons, I normally get it changed every 2,500 miles), what is the best viscosity of oil for me to get with my weather and car in mind? I don't really have any more questions right now but I'm sure I will again soon.
Thanks,
Tony
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Another type 44 recruit.
There is a lot of activity with these cars and the '89 200 is well respected. Treat it nice and you will have a good ride.
Cullain wrote:

Probably not. In fact the pump may not be the problem. These are available from a number of places for a lot less than dealer prices.
Pumps can go bad but usually can be corrected with a cheap seal kit from the dealer. Does the system have enough hydraulic fluid (Pentosin) in the reservoir? If not it might be nearly dry and a previous owner might have disabled the level sensor.
The system might have been leaking fluid from the steering rack. are the rubber accordion covers (just behind the engine and low on the firewall) wet from fluid? If so that might be the source of losing fluid and a rebuilt rack is needed ( not too bad a job).
Are the hydraulic pump belts good?
I'm not sure if that pump will fix the ABS

Nope, It won't. ABS light staying on is due to a problem in that system alone. It could be due to a bad ABS wheel sensor but the most common cause is a fuse being bad. It is located under the dash below the steering wheel in the Axillary relay panel. You need to pull the cover from below the dash to get to it but again quite easy job.
or if it will just fix the power steering and brake problem.
Yes.

If you check around at places like Autozone and Napa ... You should be able to find it on the shelf for around $16 - $18 / liter. You want to be sure the hydraulic system is not leaking before you pour too much on the ground. 7.1 and 11S can be mixed but 11S is specified in your car. The difference is in a higher boiling point of the 11S.
A common thing is to find that a previous owner has used Power steering fluid. If this has happened both steering rack and brake servo will probably need replacing : (
If this has happened but not too long ago you could try flushing the system with Pentosin and may luck out.

Not sure what you are describing.
If so what is it called so I can get one? Also,

I would run 5W30. Use Mobile1 and give it a treat : )
I don't really have any more

there and a lot of kids your age are really in to these great cars.
http://forums.audiworld.com/v8 /
Drop in and say hi. There are a bunch from around your area too.
Tony '91 100q 5spd
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Congratulations.
I've got the same car, but with the turbo. So far, I'm loving it, and I have been bugging the fellows here a whole bunch about the weird little quirks on mine.
Good luck with it,
Bill Graham -------------- 1989 200TQ

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Bill, In North America, in general - 200 = turbo, 100 = non-turbo He has the same car. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

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How silly am I? Very.
Thanks,
Bill

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Tony, Get a Bentley Manual for your car if you are going to do any serious DIY stuff - look on eBay for that. Also, getting a copy of the Family Album is very important - winkwinknudgenudge - ask a local Audi nut for a copy (or where to get one) - note that if you are running Windows XP you may encounter some problems running it. The latter may help you with questions like, "What is this called?" and "What should go here but was removed by the nth owner?" When my car was leaking PS fluid like a sieve, I used to buy the fluid from the dealer in bulk - just provide a clean container. It was a false economy, though, it was cheaper to fix the leak with a replacement pump (a ZF rebuild from a local wrecker). For some web-based help on your car, www.sjmautotechnik.com - Scott Mockry's invaluable web site also, (from recent posting to Bill's question) try: www.audifans.com - mostly owners of older Audis (pre-1995) here - searching the archives will provide you with a ton of repair tips and tricks and troubleshooting help. Check the archives, if you don't find an answer, then post a question to the group. A few of the folks on the Audifans site are developing a "Knowledgebase" to simplify the search for repair/troubleshooting/upgrading/etc. stuff. www.audiworld.com - the 100/200/5000/V8 forum (aka the V8 forum) discusses Type 44 stuff. I find that there's a bit too much "RahRah Audi" and fluff (the posting is all in the subject line, and the signature line of some is like a parts bin inventory/ingredient list of what's been put on the person's car) going on at Audiworld (read CR's posting about the respective German marque clubs) - As a Type 44 owner there's just some things that I (and many others) curse Audi for - like fragile doorhandle parts (search for "Team Doorhandle"), overly complex brake hydraulics (search for "Brake Bomb"), etc. All that said, however, I enjoy my car immensely despite its faults. It had countless owners before I got it, and after working through some super frustrating problems caused by PO (previous owner) neglect - like a blown headgasket and cooling system problems - I now have an excellent daily driver that I mostly do routine maintenance on. Keep JPF's contact info if you get the car - he's a good guy to know in this biz. For new parts - www.audiquattroparts.com , www.zzmotors.com , and others dealers are on the web. For used parts - check www.car-part.com or with specialized Audi recyclers like Shokan at www.800allaudi.com Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

to treat it better. And I figure since I'm so young (18) that I'd best start learning. I have a pretty good mechanic who has a pretty good familiarity with Audi's, however he still doesn't know everything and I just wanted to know of some specific things that I should possibly have him check on that may be problematic for my type of vehicle.

My mechanic told me that I needed to get a new power steering pump and that it would fix the problems. I have already gone ahead and placed an order for the pump, but is that all that I need do you think? I'm not sure if that pump will fix the ABS problem, or if it will just fix the power steering and brake problem. Also, he said I need to get the synthetic power fluid for the car and only can get it direct at Audi, but the Audi dealer over here charges $25 for it and I know that I can get it online for cheaper, now my question is do I get the Pentosin CHF 7.1, or the 11S?

getting? If so what is it called so I can get one? Also, I live in Central Oregon, and it's becoming that time where it's becoming snowy and the weather is getting to be a little more nasty and cold. I really need to get an oil change as it's now been 1,000 miles over (only due to financial reasons, I normally get it changed every 2,500 miles), what is the best viscosity of oil for me to get with my weather and car in mind? I don't really have any more questions right now but I'm sure I will again soon.

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Thanks for the quick replies guys, I did check the auxillary fuses and from what I can discern (remember I'm pretty new at this) the fuses were ok. I do recall hearing a slight kind of whirring sound from the brakes on occasion and it feels like its the front driver side brake. I was kind of reading up on it a little and it seems that it could be my ABS sensor? Am I correct in assuming this? It says to have it cleaned and if that doesn't work to get it replaced.
Also I also remembered that the passenger side power seats no longer work, just the passenger side, as well as the driver's heated seat doesn't work, but only on the driver's seat, not the rear passenger. I recall reading that it could be the heating pad that is causing the problem, am I correct in that?
Thanks, Tony
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Cullain wrote:

When ABS works you will hear it and feel vibration on the pedal.
I was kind of reading up on it a little and it seems

Could be but checking them takes quite technical equipment. Look for obvious problems like may be a rock hit but they are fairly protected. Their distance from the ridges on the axle is very critical so don't just pull them out to look as you will probably make more problems than you solve.

Get out your volt meter and have fun : )
as well as the driver's heated seat

Fairly common because drivers seat is used the most and takes the most abuse. Probably the element. Can be fixed but plan to spend time pulling the seat apart. Others have re soldered these with success.
Tony '91 100q 5spd
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But *not* before you get a $6-7 can of aerosol contact cleaner (Radio Shack sells it as "Tuner Cleaner" - *scented and unscented* - I shit you not!) and shoot in directly into the switches. Audi's small interior switches (seats, windows, and cruise control) are notorious for 'gunking up' at this age and the *fastest and easiest* way to fix them is simply shoot contact cleaner into them, wait a day (sometimes only a few minutes), and try them. You don't even have to remove them. Just shoot it into the cracks. The only reason this isn't also the *cheapest* fix is that you can *manually* remove them, disassemble them, and scrape the crud off them in no less than a couple of hours ... but what is *your* time worth? -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; done that)
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Tony, The whirring noise would be either a bad bearing (very common) or warped rotors (also common - if you are doing hard braking to a stop, make sure that you stop with extra space, and then roll a bit forward after a full stop to allow the rotor to cool more evenly). You wouldn't hear the sensor. If you search in Audifans, or on Scott Mockry's site, you'll find some stuff on the sensors. Most commonly the teeth on the cv joint get rusty, and the sensor gets crudded up with rust flakes. If you have an oscilloscope you can hook it up to the ABS leads and spin the wheel to see what the sensor output is. Also, if any CV joint work or bearing replacements were done, then the sensor(s) may be improperly adjusted. You can fix the adjustment by pulling the sensor, but you have to replace the "ablative caps" - the sacrificial plastic caps on the tip of the sensor that get chewed by the ABS teeth - they can only be used to adjust the position once. You can get a set of caps from the dealer. If you are going to re-seat the sensors, make sure that you clean the teeth on the CV joint - this is best done by removing the CV from the bearing - then use a wire wheel/dental pick/spot sandblaster/??? to remove the rust, and then coat with paint (like POR15) to slow rust reappearance. The seat (there is only one power PS seat, isn't there?) may be a power supply issue, or a motor issue - the seat comes out with the removal of about 3 trim screws (in the track trim at the rear), and two bolts (13mm socket - at the front). Pull the seat out and see if there's power going there, and if the connector is plugged in. The seat heater, like TonyJ said, is probably a broken heater wire. You have to pull the seat cover off (major PITA - not the flatbread), then remove the heater element. Small brown spots in the fabric over the wire may show where it is broken. Stab the wire with pins and use an ohmmeter between pins - no continuity = break(s) between pins. The wire is a nickel alloy, so it will be nearly impossible to solder - the best solution (thanks to Huw Powell at www.humanspeakers.com/audi ) is to bare the wire ends, slip a length of super small heat shrink tubing on, twist the wires together and bond them with the heat shrink. It's a huge job to do just to get your netherregions warm. I did it once - just because I was fixing the seat cover. Possibly a better solution may be to get the heater pad from the passenger side of a wreck in the local junkyard - many times less bums have sat there than the driver's seat in a given car. In any case, the fix will not last forever. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ - original seats ("mouse fur") did not heat, second set (1991 leather) heated too well (= ow! my N*&#$ are on fire!!!!), the third set (1988 Olympic Sport Leather) don't work...oh well.... 1980 Audi 5k - driver's side heater fixed, now I don't sit there (too afraid to break it again) 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - using the mouse nests (and critters inside) in the seats to keep my butt warm. (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

I do recall hearing a slight kind of whirring sound from the brakes on occasion and it feels like its the front driver side brake. I was kind of reading up on it a little and it seems that it could be my ABS sensor? Am I correct in assuming this? It says to have it cleaned and if that doesn't work to get it replaced.

but only on the driver's seat, not the rear passenger. I recall reading that it could be the heating pad that is causing the problem, am I correct in that?

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Tony, Try Chris Miller's site: http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Seat%20Heater%20element%20fix Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
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None of what you guys stated do i feel anywhere near capable of performing at all. I'm seriously a total dumbass when it comes to cars, which is why I'd like to start to learn. What I think I'll do is take what you guys told me over to the mechanic and show him what you told me. I don't think I'll be able to buy a Bentley manual anytime soon due to its high price, but I did get a manual on CD that I think will help.
I do have one final question. My cruise control also doesn't work. It doesn't engage at all or whatsoever, just nothing happens when I try to get it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?
Thanks guys,
Tony
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it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?
Four simple and cheap things to check first:
1) Fuses
2) Switch contacts (You will *need* aerosol contact cleaner for this car! Just spray it directly into the column stalk switch and work it a bit.)
3) The vacuum/electric cutoff switches on the brake and clutch pedals.
4) The vacuum lines to the actuator and the mechanical connections to the throttle linkage.
After that, you might be talking real money to fix it. -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; broke that)
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Just a little more of a hint.
C.R. Krieger wrote:

A very common location to find a vacuum break is at the 'T' connector just behind the brake master cylinder reservoir. The vacuum like cracks due to time and heat. It has been suggested that the lines under the hood should be replaced with silicone.

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I had this T go bad and the car couldn't run. $21.00 from the dealer.

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Tony, Um....yeah. <Voice on bullhorn from outside the garage> "Tony....put down the SAE wrenches and step away from the car...." All this voltmeter/contact cleaner/etc. stuff _IS_ the easy stuff. Just wait until you find out, after tracing wires for hours trying to figure out why your dash doesn't light up...you find the problem is that one of the license plate lights is burned out. If you want your hind-end heated, Wallymart has heated seat cushions, don't they? That would be the easiest "solution". The cruise control problem is probably a vacuum leak - common thing in our cars (causing cruise control problems, climate control problems, central door lock problems, engine problems.....) - um...should I mention Mighty Vac here or not.....hmmm. My cruise control did not work when I got my '87 5ktq. I replaced vacuum hoses, the vacuum pump (under the coolant reservoir, behind the fender), etc. etc. etc. - then found out that the PO (one of the many) had removed the control unit from under the dash (hmm...Tony, did you own a stone-grey metallic 1987 Audi 5000CD quattro?) - anyway, replaced that and the cruise works very well now. If you have a manual on CD, find out how to troubleshoot the Cruise and go for it - there's similar stuff on Scott Mockry's site. You would be well advised to check Scott Mockry's site (www.sjmautotechnik.com), Chris Miller's site (members.aol.com/c1j1miller/) and the archives of Audifans (www.audifans.com) and Audiworld (www.audiworld.com) every time you have a problem with something on the car. Chances are, the answers are there - and countless others have already searched theough mazes of wires, vacuum lines, pages of Bentley Manuals, Audi TSB's, etc. etc. and found the soultion (and posted it for all to see). Heck - these resources are free!! Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ - cruise works, although vacuum pump is getting tired 1980 Audi 5k - cruise control is posessed by demons - I must have a shaman come to drive them out before next summer 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - cruise control = floor (hold pedal on floor, drive along merrily) (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

I'd like to start to learn. What I think I'll do is take what you guys told me over to the mechanic and show him what you told me. I don't think I'll be able to buy a Bentley manual anytime soon due to its high price, but I did get a manual on CD that I think will help.

it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?

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Ha, Actually, b4 my current '91 100q I did have an '87q 5spd but it was tan. It is now owned by another Audi guy who knows his wrenches.
Tony '91 100q 5spd
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ABS light may be due to dirty teeth (inside the wheel hub) (my 1986 5000TQ had this problem), or the sensor tips (it has permanent magnet and attracts swarf. Pulling the sensors is easy (you may need self grip pliers - the sensor retaining bolt hex head may be rounded. To clean the teeth you need to partially take apart the front suspension - remove the wheel, the caliper, the steering rod, trailing arm, the ABS sensor, the hub from the CV joint. Painful, but you can wait for the next CV joint replacement to do it then.

to treat it better. And I figure since I'm so young (18) that I'd best start learning. I have a pretty good mechanic who has a pretty good familiarity with Audi's, however he still doesn't know everything and I just wanted to know of some specific things that I should possibly have him check on that may be problematic for my type of vehicle.

My mechanic told me that I needed to get a new power steering pump and that it would fix the problems. I have already gone ahead and placed an order for the pump, but is that all that I need do you think? I'm not sure if that pump will fix the ABS problem, or if it will just fix the power steering and brake problem. Also, he said I need to get the synthetic power fluid for the car and only can get it direct at Audi, but the Audi dealer over here charges $25 for it and I know that I can get it online for cheaper, now my question is do I get the Pentosin CHF 7.1, or the 11S?

getting? If so what is it called so I can get one? Also, I live in Central Oregon, and it's becoming that time where it's becoming snowy and the weather is getting to be a little more nasty and cold. I really need to get an oil change as it's now been 1,000 miles over (only due to financial reasons, I normally get it changed every 2,500 miles), what is the best viscosity of oil for me to get with my weather and car in mind? I don't really have any more questions right now but I'm sure I will again soon.

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