engine light vag 17544 02/02

i have a 1999 audi 1.8T the engine light went on. I have a VAG(cheap one) and the code came up with 17544 02/02 can someone shed some light on what this mean? thanks

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SAE P1136    VAG 17544    MIL: 2 Dcy
Long Term Fuel Trim Add. Fuel, Bank1 System too Lean.
Check intake air system for leaks ("false air") Check HO2S -G39- and O2S control Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor -G70- Check fuel pressure regulator and residual fuel pressure Check fuel injectors; Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM)
If you can't find any air leaks, and you're on your original MAF, check the adaptation values for the MAF and look for adaptation outside of allowed range. MAF failures are not uncommon...
Cheers
/daytripper '00 s4 6spd
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sorry for such a dump question but where the the MAF located. is it easy to replace?
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Look at this image:
http://home.comcast.net/~day_trippr/junkdrawer/1p8l_maf.gif
The MAF is item 7 in this figure. It is located in the upper air cleaner housing. It shouldn't be physically difficult to remove and replace, but you'll need to run an adaptation cycle on it, which your tool may not be capable of doing...
/daytripper '00 s4 6spd
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fwiw, I put a close-up diagram of the MAF location here:
http://home.comcast.net/~day_trippr/junkdrawer/1p8l_maf_closeup.gif
The items shown are as follows:
1- wastegate bypass regulator valve -N75- 2- Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) purge regulator valve -N80- 3- power output stage -N122- 4- Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor -G70-
You'll need to remove the air cleaner housing to extract the MAF. This means you'll likely have to disconnect the above four items and pull the hoses off the housing to remove it.
/daytripper '00 s4 6spd
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from your previous diagnostic maybe i should just take it to a mechanic just to make sure it's more than the MAF is the problem. i know its going to cost me more money but i have no way of checking if there's any air leaks..etc
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thanks but if i dont have the adaptation tool should i just bring it to a mechanic or this is something i can purchase?
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By "tool" I am referring to the diagnostic scan tool. I use VAG-COM, a mainline dealer uses the official Audi/VW tool (1551, 1552, and others). These tools are capable of performing adaptation cycles, coding units to vehicles, clearing DTCs, setting readiness bits, etc, as well as diagnosing problems.
The actual source of this particular problem can very likely be determined with proper use of a capable scan tool. I flagged the MAF because they do fail, more frequently than the other items on the potential list of indictees. But I wouldn't simply replace it, because the problem may well not be the MAF.
I would let a qualified mainline service department work on this one...
/daytripper '00 s4 6spd
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i agree...thanks for your help and i will let you know what the problem is...
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i took it to the mechanic and they mentioned that they need to smoke it to find out where the leak is..hopefully this is not going to cost me a lot of money
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That should be a relatively cheap test. They use a device that injects smoke into one of the vacuum lines. When the see the smoke coming out somewhere they have found the leak.
chewb40 wrote:

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[top posting in form] And if they do it according to the Audi manual, they'll have ECU instrumented when they do it...
/daytripper '00 s4 6spd

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I had a 17544 code and a bad, fluctuating idle. Mine was caused by a clogged "PCV" valve due to sludge. $17 part fixed it. It was causing an internal leak (crankcase gasses into intake manifold). picture here: http://members.cox.net/ambox/audi_sludge/#CrankcaseVentilationAndOtherEnginePeripherals story here: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/a4/2006-January/001680.html
Probably not likely to be what's wrong with yours, but an easy way to test for this would be to remove the hose (part #10 in that picture) from the valve where it connects to the manifold and plug that manifold hole and see if the idle improves.
Also to check for vacuum leaks I had read online that you can remove the big hose that goes into the air cleaner housing and blow into it. I have no idea whether that really works. When I blew into it, it took about 10 seconds for the pressure equalize (hissing of escaping air to stop). (I didn't have an external vacuum leak.)
--Art
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well got the car back and yes there was a leak. 80.00 for the test 80.00 to replace the host and of course + taxes......
just wanted to say thank you everyone
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