Re: 1987 Audi Timing Belt

Well, I finally finished the job replacing the timing belt.
I am posting the experince to alert Audi owners to pay attention to this crucial maintenance items.
I waited 17 years, and did nothing, knowing full well what can happen.
Anyway, the job was somewhat challenging the first time around.
One thing does bother me looking back:
there is a 6mm bolt, about 1 inch long, left over.
I know there a some 6mm bolts going into the block, but I believe I put them all back in.
So I am keeping an eye on potential oil leaks, etc.
Moral of the story: make sure what you remove, put it back in.
(And don't keep any unrelated parts around which could subject you to stress later on....
BTW, the car runs great, just like new!
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Sounds like great news that it is running just like new. Congrats on a job well done.
That bolt should be for one of the timing covers, possibly the lower cover.
later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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On 23 Oct 2004 05:10:51 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comANTISPAM (dave) wrote:

dave-
re: 6mm bolt: I secured the lower timing belt cover with the 2 shorter 6mm bolts. I had accidentially loosened one of the other 6mm bolts, but made sure it was tigh,t before procceding.
Nothing is leaking, so it could just be a bolt from my other mess on the work bench.
Over the past 17 years I made sure to change the engine oil every 2000 miles or so. Looking at the camshaft one can see that everything is as clean as new.
Now I have to do the same on my 1985 Audi 4000s.
marti-
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Oh did you put some Locktite on the crank bolt or at least torque it down well with the driveplate locked down? I have seen some crank sprockets work loose after not being torqued correctly down. Not a pretty site after damage occurs.
That 85 4000S 4cyl is about the same, but just a little less room to work with. :-( Also remember the shims position when you take apart the crank pulley and take off or loosen the water pump pulley bolts first .
later, dave

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On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 22:58:41 GMT, "dave AKA vwdoc1"
I didn't add any fresh Locktite, since the bolt was hard to screw in, because of the old Locktite.
As far a tightening is concerned:
I was going to buy the Audi2084 on Ebay. It was offered for something like $43.00. When I contacted the seller, he withdrew the bid and said he no longer had access to it. Go figure.
After that, I placed a "Buy it now" for $69.00 and proceeded to pay for it via paypal. During the process, Paypal went down for 5 days.
Now, I did not know whether the Pay instructions went thru or not. I waited, since I did not want to pay for it twice. (did you ever try go get your money back?)
Now, the seller got nervous and send me an abusive e-mail. I replied and told him to consider this to be a lost sale!
At this time, I went to a local repair shop, borrowed the tool for a Carl Strauss six pack and tighned the bolt real good with an extended 3/4 breaker bar. I mean real good!
Thanks for pointing out the potential damage that might happen, if the bolt comes loose. I think it more than tight, but I probably would like to have that 2084 in my collection...keep looking on ebay.
marti-

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snip snip

sounds like you are good to go! :-)
later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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