On 02/26/2013 12:02 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: >
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> >>> Today went to a shop that does tranny rebuilds:
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> >>> upon draining the Castrol GL -4+ with VW specs they found metal debri s
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> >>> in it.
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> >>> So that 1-2 month stunt I did with GL-5 in the transmission of my A4 >
> >>> was not without consequences.
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> >>> I'm planning to have them tear down the tranny in a few weeks and do >
> >>> the rebuild.
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> >>> What pisses me off is that the shop where I ordered the transmission >
> >>> oil
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> >>> change did not utter a thing when I gave them GL-5 to pour into the >
> >>> rear diff (correct)
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> >>> and the tranny (grossly incorrect)
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> >>> I wonder if they should pry open the torsen to inspect (130k miles on >
> >>> the car)
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> >>> while they are at it or the clutch plates wear check (suggested by JB )
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> >>> is the
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> >>> only thing to watch out for.
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> >>> While checking the tranny they found a busted ball joint.
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> >>> This is a lot like going to a dentist :-[
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> >> in reverse order:
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> >> 1. ball joints are not usually that expensive. unless you're stuck with
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> >> one of the "replace the whole suspension arm" deals. and most ball >
> >> joints these days last a good long time. they only usually go after >
> >> some retard with a pickle fork cuts the boot when they pop the joint. >
> >> beware of that for the future.
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> >> 2. a torsen is geared, it doesn't have clutches. many limited slip >
> >> diffs /do/ have clutches, but they're not torsens.
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> >> 3. "metal debris" in a transmission is absolutely normal. the only >
> >> question is how much there was and the particle size. if it has a >
> >> magnetic drain plug and the thing is covered and pulls out 3x its own >
> >> size in metallic goop, then that is excessive. but if it's simply g ot
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> >> some gray stuff that wipes off on a rag, then it's not. what matter s is
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> >> how the transmission is performing. if the synchros are gone, or it 's
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> >> whining excessively, then you've sustained damage. if the only thin g
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> >> you've noticed is "metal debris", you don't need a rebuild.
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> > it does not whine. But I wonder how effective would be judging the amou nt
> > of metal on magnetic plugs given that GL-5 is a poison for the synchros .
> > Which are in my understanding made out of non magnetic alloy. >
> > I have difficulty engaging 2nd gear. Especially when tranny is still co ld.
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> ok, the priority until you can fix the bit i'm about to tell you is that
> you learn to double-clutch. done right, you can smoothly and
> effortlessly change gears on a vehicle with no synchro. that method
> will save any "challenged" manual transmission from wear or even > destruction.
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> the reason you're having trouble in second might be compounded by a
> little synchro wear, but the /cause/ is the clutch disk not floating
> properly in the input pinion. this means that when you release the
> clutch, it's still pressing on the flywheel a little, and thus the drive
> is sufficient that the synchro ring can't grab and brake the gear. to
> fix this, you need to drop the transmission and antiseize the pinion > properly.
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> when you have the clutch out, you'll see that the disk is worn on one
> face more than the other - typical symptom of lack of float. along wit h
> worn-out synchros.
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I'll have to negotiate access to the area where they'd be dropping the transmission with the clutch then.
You are saying in case the wear is uneven hold off on transmission rebuild cause there are no guarantee it will be done in sanitary conditions and just lube the pinion with antiseize. I found this
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Bearing-Experience while googling what the pinion bearing on A4 might look like.
Planning to go for a second opinion about the ball bearing to the shop that installed the clutch: there is no issue with customers looming over technician shoulders there. Will see how your "idiot with the wrong tool accidentally(?) tearing up the ball joint boot" theory pans out.
thanks JB!