1989 325 transmission question

I am thinking about picking up a 1989 325 convertiable that needs a new manual transmission. What transmission would I need? would this be found in a lot of
other models like a 320i or a 325e. Is this a real hard project?
I also have a 1983 320i and need to replace the drivers seat. Are there any other bmw models that have seats that will fit in my car without any modifications.
Thanks,
Woody Tyrone Ga.
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I think it will be a Getrag gearbox. Easy enough job if you know what you are doing.
I would try to get one out of another 325, as the gear rations may be different for other engine sizes.

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Leroy wrote:

I'm not so sure about that. Have you done it? When I removed my transmission on my '86 325, I had a terrible time trying to get the damper off the back and the top few bolts off the transmission. I finally used an engine hoist to tip the engine up and then used a 36" extension to get to those last two bolts. I wouldn't have described the job as easy, exactly, but maybe that's because I don't know what I'm doing. If you or anyone else knows a better way to do it, I'd like to learn it, since this transmission and engine are going back into the car when I get finished rebuilding them.
Ed
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If you're pulling the engine and transmission, take off the hood and pull them together. This will avoid the need to mess with the top bolts while lying on your back under the car. Make sure you clear all of the hoses and harnesses out of the way as you go...
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Psycho wrote:

Thanks. It looked like that would work, but by that time I already had the transmission out. When it goes back in, I'll install it with the transmission attached.
Ed
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By damper, I assume you mean the rubber propshaft dounut? I am not sure why this caused you a problem.
As for the upper bolts/upper starter motor bolt, a long 3/8" extension is the key, so you are undoing them from the back of the gearbox.

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Leroy wrote:

It's the vibration damper which is between the driveshaft and the transmission output shaft. I had a difficult time with it because there was about a 34mm nut at the bottom of that that I couldn't remove because there was very little clearance between the nut and the sides of the damper (I suppose you could call it a donut) in which it was situated. I had no sockets which were both deep enough and thin enough, so I wound up hitting the corner of the nut with a drift and a hammer. Not a good way to treat a nut, but I couldn't see any other way to remove it.
Ed
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If I remember correctly, it takes a 30mm thinwall socket. I have one somewhere in the trunk of my car. Bought it trying to disassemble a Getrag 5 speed. Same nut that's on the ZF automatic though. BTW - The Getrag NEVER did come apart. it's waiting for the sledge hammer wrench to be invoked. I WILL get it open...
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