1991 325i Clutch issue

Hello, My 1991 325i (6 cyl.)has a problem with the clutch. When I left a friend's home, I quickly noticed that I was unable to shift gears after
leaving the driveway. I had to let the vehicile stall or place into neutral in order to stop. Then, to start, I needed to place the gear into neutral. It is almost impossible to shift to another gear afterwards. I checked the master cylinder on the firewall and it is full. Any ideas?
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Peter J. Alicea
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Peter J Alicea wrote:

Bad slave cylinder.
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If it's not leaking fluid, chances are that it is the master cylinder. The slave cylinder doesn't have a failure mode that doesn't include leaking (pardon the double negative). The important thing is to get it fixed before you drive the car any furter. It's very easy to destroy the transmission and/or starter motor by driving with no clutch.

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Thanks for the advice JimV, and Jack. However, I found the actual problem. Can you help? The shaft where the clutch pedal makes contact is broken inside the cylinder housing.. How does one remove/replace it? I cannot figure out how to get at the 2 bolts on the side housing of the cylinder, and I do not know what is involved to remove it afterwards. ANy suggestions?
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Peter J. Alicea
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I believe that you will have to replace the entire master cylinder assembly because they don't sell the piston rod separately. Here is a link to the online parts catalog showing the connections you will have to deal with. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model 31&mospidG430&btnr!_0059&hg!&fg
Here are the replacement instructions from my Haynes manual:
1) Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and siphon out sufficient fluid so that the fluid level is below the level of the reservoir fluid hose connection to the clutch master cylinder. (The brake fluid reservoir feeds both the brake and clutch hydraulic systems). DO NOT empty the reservoir as this will draw air into the brake hydraulic circuits.
2) Disconnect the clutch master cylinder hose from the brake fluid reservoir. Be prepared for fluid spillage and plug the open end of the hose (with a pencil) to prevent dirt entry.
3) Working inside the vehicle, remove the securing screws and remove the drivers side lower dash trim panel.
4) Where applicable, disconnect the clutch pedal return spring, using a suitable pair of pliers, to enable the clutch master cycinder pushrod-to-pedal clevis pin to be removed.
5) Pry off the clip securing the master cyclinder pushrod-to-pedal clevis pin and remove the clevis pin.
6) Unscrew the two bolts and nut securing the master cylinder to the pedal bracket in the footwell, noting that the bolts also secure the brake light switch mounting bracket. Release the master cylinder from the bracket and ease the fluid hose through the firewall grommet taking care not to strain the pipe.
7) Inspect the master cylinder for leaks or damage and replace if necessary. No spare parts are available for the master cylinder and if faulty, the entire unit must be replaced.
8) Installation is the reverse of removal bearing in mind the following points. a) Take care not to strain the master cylinder fluid pipe during installation b) Use a new master cylinder self-locking securing nut. c) On completion, top up the level in the brake fluid reservoir, then bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

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Thanks Jack. It looks like it will be a little easier to do than I thought. Also, when you state that the "Master Cylinder Assembly" needs to be replaced, are you referring to the "input cylinder clutch" ?
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Peter J. Alicea
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Yes, sorry for the inconsistant nomenclature.

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