2005 325i Update

Hi,
    So I took a test drive today on a 2005 325xi. They didn't have any 325i's which they could pull out easily so I took the all wheel
drive out for a test. I have to say I like the ride of the car and I could see out of the car easily (especially the left windows) which is difficult in some cars I test drove including the Altima and Accord. My one buddy who works at a dealership was telling me though that BMWs are going to cost me a lot in repair and parts. He says that one of his friends who has a 750 had the car more at the shop then he drives it. Is this true with the 325i's as well? I'm going to be doing the work myself but don't want to keep throwing parts into the car.
Also I had a look at the lower ball joint which appears to be reversed and I remember on an Elantra which had a similar design that it was a PITA to get a balljoint separator in between the driveshaft and the nut to pop out the balljoint. Hyundai required a special tool to get it out which cost $130. Is this the case with the 325i?
I'm trying to convince myself to get the BMW but I'd rather get a car that I can repair then a car that looks nice.
Thanks in advance
Nick
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A 750i, especially if it was an older one with V12, is by far one of the most expensive cars to maintain, period. Our BMWs cost no more than Toyotas to maintain.

Driveshaft? Ball joints don't connect to the driveshaft. They connect the control arms to other suspension parts. I have a pickle-fork that cost $35 that does the job. Most people just support it and hammer out the shaft. Most people just buy a control arm with the ball joints in them, as you *do* need special tools to press new ones into the control arm.
FloydR
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On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 18:37:13 -0700, "Floyd Rogers"

Floyd,
What I was referring to is the gap between the lower ball joint and the driveshaft. You really never want to use a pickle-fork to separate a balljoint as it will tear the rubber boot. They have a special separator which will do this without tearing it, something like this:
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=OTC6297&source=froogle&kw=OTC6297
But if you say it is economically feasible to just buy a lower control arm, I'll take your word on it.
Nick
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Again, there is no connection between the "driveshaft" and ball joints. The driveshaft connects the transmission to the differential. It has CV or "universal" joints on each end (and in the middle, on BMWs).
In the UK, a driveshaft is called a propshaft.
Ball joints connect suspension and steering parts.
Most people don't bother to replace just the ball joints, as the control arms with ball joints installed are inexpensive enough to ignore the savings of installing new ball joints in old arms.
FloydR
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< snippage>

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=OTC6297&source=froogle&kw=OTC6297
You do know that BMW's are rear wheel drive don't you?
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wrote:

Yes on the 325i, I was referring to the all wheel drive version 325xi.
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On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 21:12:20 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.com wrote:

My wife's 2002 325i (manual, sport pkg, leather) has missed all of one half day when its battery died in '06. Other than that episode, it's been dead reliable.
And it was picked up in Munich, cruising at >100mph ten minutes after it left the factory, and logged its first 2k miles in Europe. Damned fine car.
-- Larry
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i have had a 325i, 330xi and a 535xi.........and it has never been in the shop for a fault in close to 10 years....i might be more of an exception than a rule. I have heard some stories of people having terrible time with their BMWs, so it is not like they never have issues. Doing a bit of research on the particular year and model of the car, you are going to get helps a lot. Some models in some years are more reliable than others.
If you truly and heavily value reliability over performance, then i would suggest Honda. They, IMO, makes the most reliable cars.
pltrgyst wrote:

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The manual says you shouldn't exceed 90 mph during the break-in period.
Anoop
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On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 21:12:20 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.com wrote:

I have a 2002 model 325xi. Never had any major issues. The battery died after about 5 years. Replaced it. Passenger side window stopped working a few years ago. Replaced under warranty. And I just came back from the dealership today, looking at my front right tire (not holding pressure), which was caused by a small leak near the rim (no problem with the tire itself). He could have sold me a new set of Conti's but he said the tire was fine, still had plenty thread left on it and charged me 31 dollars and 50 cents for the labor. My wife has a 328xiT (2007 model year). Both cars are the most reliable vehicles I ever owned. I actually sold her Jeep Grand Cherokee (quadra drive) last year because of all the problems it started to have with the drive train. Got her into a 328 xiT wagon, and she just loves it. I can't speak for anyone but myself, but I love these cars and the maintenance issues I had with mine, which were minor, were all taken care off at low cost. Most of it even during the 4 year warranty. I pay for my oil changes now, but that's only once a year (I do low miles). And both cars are driven year round here in Minnesota, where the winters can be totally brutal. A 2005 325i is a rock. I wouldn't drive in the snow (take an xi for that) but it should last you a long time. Actually, I am kind of looking for a good excuse to trade mine in for a new one, but I can't find any excuse that wouldn't make my wife frown. I like her 2007 E91, and all the stuff that came with it. Especially the angel eyes, which mine doesn't have :-) But it's a hard sell to get a 2008 328xi here just for that... Here's some pictures of hers and mine
http://home.comcast.net/~wernergr/cars/328xit.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~wernergr/cars/325xi.jpg
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